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86 Ski Nautique electrical/ignition issue

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ScottZ View Drop Down
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    Posted: August-26-2020 at 5:01am
My test was the engine would get to where it would not run and everything else had been checked or replaced so I replaced the distributor and now it runs fine.  I just replaced a complete distributor on a GT40 and now it runs fine as well.
Scott Zuelzke
Lake Mitchell , AL
       
1984 Ski Nautique       
1972 Skier
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote 8122pbrainard Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: August-25-2020 at 9:06am
Originally posted by ScottZ ScottZ wrote:

  The distributor was the last thing I replaced.  No more issues.
Scott,
What tests did you do to determine the complete distributor was bad? Was there run out on the shaft? 


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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote ScottZ Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: August-25-2020 at 8:56am
I have not heard a peep from my customer.  No calls from him is good news to me!  The distributor was the last thing I replaced.  No more issues.
Scott Zuelzke
Lake Mitchell , AL
       
1984 Ski Nautique       
1972 Skier
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote cnelson0641 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: August-24-2020 at 2:26pm
Awesome that you got everything fixed!  Are you confident that you fixed all the issues?  I just ordered a new coil and ignition module (from SkiDIM, Pertronix Ignitor II) and I'm hoping that one of them is failing intermittently because its old.

But now I'm curious:  did you replace the entire distributor?  Or did you pull over the ignition module?  Do you think it was just time for the 3-4 worn subsystems (ignition module, advance, rotor, gear, etc.) of the entire distributor needing to be replaced entirely?

I'm hoping that this solves my issue, but the engineer in me is planning for the worst, and what I can troubleshoot if it starts failing again.  I have some ideas in my head, but I don't wanna put the cart before the horse :)

--Chris N.
"Two rules, kid - ya gotta want it, and ya gotta give'r."

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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote ScottZ Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: August-24-2020 at 10:27am
Yes!!   I replaced the distributor and that cured the problem.  you can get a new Mallory distributor from Nautiqueparets.com or skidim.com.  The other option is a DUI.  Let me know how you come out.
Scott Zuelzke
Lake Mitchell , AL
       
1984 Ski Nautique       
1972 Skier
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote cnelson0641 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: August-24-2020 at 2:08am
Scott - any update on your customer's SN?  I have an '83 SN with the exact same symptoms:  run great for 1-2 hours, then starts to stumble, then won't restart after I turn it off (cranks but no ignition).  And then for the next two days it will crank but not start.

I have the Ignitor II conversion kit (came with the boat when I purchased it ~3 years ago) - which includes the ignition module and the Ignitor II .6 ohm coil.  I've narrowed down my issue to the distributor:  I connected an in-line plug tester to a plug, and then plugged that plug directly to the coil.  I also connected one end of a jumper cable to the negative side of the coil.  When I grounded the jumper wire, I could see the plug tester light come on (just barely though).

Any input?
"Two rules, kid - ya gotta want it, and ya gotta give'r."

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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote desertskier Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: May-05-2020 at 11:06am
Here is a post from a few years ago discussing the different ignition modules and the requirements for each. Look at Hollywood's post about halfway down the page.

old post

Here is the text:
Eh, I'm not going to take his word on all EI modules. These manufacturers seem to be pretty specific about what resistance they want.

SkiDIM currently sells the Pertronix Ignitor II, which in their product description does state to bypass the resistor. Pertronix Ignitor II instructions agree.
6. The Ignitor II ignition can be used in conjunction with most ignition coils rated at
0.45 ohms or greater.
7. All external resistors must be removed to achieve optimum performance from the
Ignitor II ignition system.
http://www.pertronix.com/docs/instruction-sheets/91141.pdf

HOWEVER, some of you may have had the Ignitor I, which DOES state a minimum resistance.
Pertronix Iginitor (the first edition) installation instructions:
4. Four and six cylinder engines require a minimum of 3.0 ohms of primary resistance and eight cylinder engines require a minimum of 1.5 ohms of primary resistance. Do not remove resistors if the coil primary resistance is less than specified.
5. If your Ignition coil has the recommended primary resistance, remove or bypass all external resistors.
http://www.pertronix.com/docs/instruction-sheets/1141.pdf

Hot-Spark:
Coil Warning: DO NOT use a low-resistance or an HEI-style coil. 4- and 6-cylinder: Use a coil that has resistance in the primary circuit of at least 3.0 Ohms (Ω). 8-Cylinder: Must be used with a coil that has resistance in the primary circuit of at least 1.5 Ω. Using a coil with insufficient primary resistance can cause the ignition module to overheat and misfire until it cools down again, or fail prematurely, which will void the Hot-Spark ignition warranty.
http://www.hot-spark.com/Coil.htm

Mallory:
NOTE: The purpose of resistance wire between the ignition switch (12V) and the ignition coil positive terminal is to restrict current flow through the ignition coil. Failure to use resistance wire will eventually destroy the Ignition Module.
http://prestoliteperformance.com/media/instructions/mallory/Mallory_Instructions_unilite_distributor_37_38_45_47.pdf

All that said, know what kit you have and what they want. Seems as though Pertronix Ignitor II is the only one that is safe to bypass the resistor no matter what coil you are using. And now I think most of you burnt up your EI modules on your own. SNobsessed, if I were you I'd wire back in the resistor.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Hollywood Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: May-05-2020 at 10:59am
So you haven’t determined if you’re lacking spark or fuel?
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote SNobsessed Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: May-05-2020 at 10:09am
What is the voltage (feeding the coil) when it starts to run rough?

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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote 8122pbrainard Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: May-05-2020 at 9:12am
Scott,
Sounds like there's some resistance that drops the volts. Check the breaker and the ignition switch for resistance. Both should be near zero Ohms.


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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote TRBenj Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: May-05-2020 at 9:12am
The coil, module and resistor need to be matched and wired properly (per the provided instructions). Sounds like there is some sort of mismatch going on. Without knowing the brand/model of the EI kit, we don’t have enough info to answer the question. Do you still have the install instructions that came with the kit?
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote ScottZ Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: May-05-2020 at 8:41am
This topic is for the electrical professionals on this site. so if you think you are one then chime in if you think of a question to ask or an idea of a solution.

I have a customer's 1986 Ski Nautique that has developed an electrical or ignition problem. After an hour or so of the engine running it will just quit. before it quits it does not run as smooth. This problem has been going on for several months. In the beginning could put in a jumper wire from the breaker ono the engine to the coil and start it back up. That no longer works. That jumper wire would bypass the electrical system in the dash. I also ran a new power wire from the breaker on the engine to the junction plate behind the dash which delivers power to all the dash breakers. I ran a new wire from the ignition switch to the 12 volt side of the resistor. the only wire I detected resistance in was the one from the ignition breaker to the key switch and I replaced it. I have used a multi meter looking for voltage drops and as of yesterday the only one I had was when I was cranking the engine.

Additional parts I have replaced are as follows:

coil
electronic ignition module,
20 amp ignition breaker
wire from ignition breaker to key switch
carb ( I put the old one back on)
resistor
spark plugs
check the timing

The electrical system on this boat is not that complicated and in all of the years I have been working on boats I have never has an electrical issue this bad.

That is all I have at this time some put your thinnking caps on! Thank you!
Scott Zuelzke
Lake Mitchell , AL
       
1984 Ski Nautique       
1972 Skier
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