GT-40 Zero oil pressure. Ticking engine. Help!

I want to say good job too, but I think I'll wait until Cam posts here that the boat is running well under load in the water

Best possible ending. This is what makes CCF So unique.

camron18 wrote: New ignition switch now in... sorry Pete. Same thing. I’ve reset the timing 10 times now with no change. It runs as long as I hold the key to start, even if I give it more gas, as soon as I let off the key it dies, I have 12v to the coil on the dui. With the key on.

I seem to recall hearing about this issue that related to the safety lanyard. Maybe bypass it to rule it out.

camron18 wrote: Maybe it’s the ignition switch???

What's the VOM (volt Ohm meter) telling you? Volts to the coil when the switch is in the run position?

camron18 wrote: This is getting very frustrating... I have 12.7 volts at the battery cables at the back of the engine as soon as I mount the ground to the bell housing I loose my 12.7v but the gages are on. Is there a ground wire that goes somewhere else? I have one for the battery cable one on the male side of the wiring harnesses one on the female side and one that I cut and wire nutted with the dui swap.

If you have the main breaker open/tripped and have power to your gauges like you say, then you have some wiring issues somewhere.

With the engine OFF and the main breaker open you shouldn't have power to anything at the dash

The starter and the solenoid on the back of the engine would have power and like you mentioned you could jumper the wires at the solenoid and the starter would turn over, but you'd have no power to the coil to make the engine run. That would be your "big wire" and "little wire" you mentioned.

But.......if jumpering around the breaker gets you going, putting a new breaker in will work and you could figure out the other issues later since you probably had them before

Here's an original ProTec wiring diagram with a 50 amp main breaker so if you were to find a 40 or 50 amp breaker to replace yours with you should be good to go

The 30 amp you linked above would work. It may not be "marine rated" for spark protection though.

https://www.acehardware.com/departments/automotive-rv-and-marine/recreational-vehicle-parts-and-accessories/rv-electrical-equipment/85765?gclid=EAIaIQobChMIkuWftcCt6gIVhsDACh21ywvREAQYASABEgKxgPD_BwE&gclsrc=aw.ds

Would this work?

It’s the breaker! I jumped the breaker and turned the key and the starter turned! Can I find a replacement for this breaker locally???

Have you checked the main breaker?

I just got the starter to turn by jumping from the battery/big wire to the starter post to the little wire to the starter post

I'm assuming with key on you got normal dash power, gas gauge reading, etc.? Doubt the battery is the problem, or the connections, since you were running right until you lost oil pressure and connections are new since you reinstalled the engine.

Is the transmission in (clean) neutral? Sounds like a NSS issue.

The two bearings I pulled looked fine and very smooth. The crank looked perfect, and checking the tolerance with plastigage was perfect at .0015”. I pulled the furthest forward main bearing as well and it was still covered in oil and looked perfect. Torqued everything back down. New oil pump arrived today shaft should be here tomorrow. I will slap the pump and shaft on and throw it back in for the fourth!

My guess is that a small piece of oil pan gasket silicone got sucked into the pump? I was in a hurry last year putting the oil pan on...

Posts with gt-40 in the title get more responses..

camron18 wrote: If the engine needs to be rebuilt, and I instead risk it and just throw a new oil pump on. How much more damage could I do to the motor than there potentially already is? Could I risk it for the fourth and maybe a few more weekends as long as I stay on small lakes where I know I can get a tow if I need it? For me the risk of putting the motor back in and having to take it out again in a few weeks really is not a big deal as I have access to a Crain at work and I can have it back in and out in a couple hours. I just don’t know if I could mess anything else up while I’m risking it... Maybe there is a few things I could inspect while I have the motor in my barn without getting to deep into the rebuild??? Thanks again guys.

Welcome to the backyard hackers club

With you knowing that it may or may not work out for you, I think i'd do just what you're thinking, based on your description of what happened and the short time frame it was running. From your description it didn't start clacking away sounding like an old Singer sewing machine, although the 2000 rpm period of running might be a little worrisome.

Check a bearing or 2 to see what they look like if you want. if they look good, then continue on

New pump for sure and make sure you get the oil pump driveshaft in with the little retaining clip in the right position (at the end away from the pump), clean the suction line and strainer and slap it back together.

I had a somewhat similar situation once with let's call it an "on the fly oil change" due to an oil cooler line break. Fixed the line and finished the oil change, fired it up and it ran good for the next handful of years. Cleaning the bilge out wasn't much fun though.

Is it the textbook perfect solution? Hell no, but you'll know pretty quickly if you're gonna be OK.

And..............quit calling that engine a gt40 if this is your Hydrodyne. Your old posts say this is a protec converted to a carburetor and DUI distributor   

Good luck

Cam,
Something caused that pump shaft to break. Take a very close look at the pump and look in the pan for any evidence.