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Bent prop shaft mount

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Far north downunder View Drop Down
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    Posted: June-29-2020 at 4:18am
Barbie = BBQ, oven grill sounds like an oven set to grill... . Anyway, the coupling should be as hot as you can get it, use a Barbie, BBQ, oven, oven grill, gas torch whatever you want.   
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote 8122pbrainard Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: June-26-2020 at 7:33am
Originally posted by TommySki TommySki wrote:

Can anyone explain the benefits of a double tapered shaft?

As Martin mentioned ease of coupling removal but also ease of coupling installation. The coupling bore to shaft is an interference fit. That means to install it with the engine in the boat, the coupling needed to be heated in an oven grill (or the Barbie as Martin would say) The alternate is using a hydraulic press but then to get the shaft/coupling assembly back in the boat the engine needs to be pulled out. Removing the coupling can also be a PITA since typically a gear puller will not fit in the tight area so the "long bolt and socket" trick is used.


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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Far north downunder Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: June-26-2020 at 1:54am

A double tapered shaft allows you to bolt on a Coupling. (A.R.E shaft) The Coupling connects to the shaft in the same way the prop is connected to the shaft.

The coupling on an ARE Shaft are easier to remove and install than an interference fit coupling, and provide a better connection than a split coupling. Both those types of coupling require a single taper shaft.

However, if any of the 3 different types of Couplings are fitted correctly the boat will perform the same way. There are no performance gains.

Ease of removal is really the only real benefit, which will be relevant if you are maintaining the boat yourself. the Shaft will need to be removed to change strut bearings, and be replaced if it bends again, or to replace the shaft seal (repacking does not require shaft removal)

However, if the shaft is properly aligned and you don't hit anything you may not need to remove the shaft for years.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote TommySki Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: June-26-2020 at 12:56am
Can anyone explain the benefits of a double tapered shaft?
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote TommySki Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: June-22-2020 at 6:06pm
I found all the parts and finally got a hold of a nautique dealer who could get it in next week. Will likely have them fix it since insurance is covering it. We'll see what they have to say.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote proc Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: June-22-2020 at 4:20pm
i just went through this same thing last year put on a new strut new prop and had the old shaft straighten. was a pain to get coupler and shaft apart that was the hardest thing but after that pretty easy. put everything back together but i am getting a bad vibration/shake at low rpms as soon as i give it some throttle it goes away. could the coupler itself be bent? it fit snug back on when i put it on. could it be loose transmission bolts? or some other bolts that loosen when i hit something?     
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote 8122pbrainard Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: June-22-2020 at 3:18pm
If the prop shaft is bent and you are replacing it, many times it's easier to cut the shaft just aft of the coupling rather than trying to get the interference fit coupling off the shaft.


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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Jonny Quest Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: June-22-2020 at 2:22pm
This is a fairly simple job to do. First, you want to remove the propeller from the shaft. Then you need to unbolt the transmission/prop shaft coupling between the propeller shaft and the transmission. Do some searches on this site and you will get plenty of information on how to remove the coupling from the propeller shaft. Then you remove the safety retaining collar from the propeller shaft. Once the transmission coupling and safety collar have been removed from the propeller shaft, then you need to remove the strut. There are four bolts that mount the strut onto the bottom of the keel. The strut is bedded to the keel, so you may need some muscle to get the strut off after the bolts are removed. With the strut removed the entire assembly will simply slide right out.

With the driveshaft removed, simply measure the shaft length and order a new double taper shaft. — along with a new strut and prop. The double taper shaft will have a new coupling to mate up with the transmission. If your safety retaining collar is in good shape, you can reuse it. If not, get another one of those too.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote TommySki Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: June-22-2020 at 2:08pm
Good news is that insurance will cover it. Sounds like the shaft is bent too.

Do I need to pull the shaft to know the length and diameter or can i order this based on the boat model? 93 sport

Also what's the difficulty level on doing this myself?

Thanks guys, your a wealth of knowledge.

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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote 8122pbrainard Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: June-22-2020 at 1:13pm
Originally posted by TommySki TommySki wrote:

I found the strut mount is an S-19, nautique parts has it. Would I need a different mount if I do a tapered shaft?
.

No, the double taper prop shaft is tapered at the prop end just like a single and then has an additional taper at the trans coupling end so there is no difference at the strut.


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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote TommySki Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: June-22-2020 at 1:11pm
I found the strut mount is an S-19, nautique parts has it. Would I need a different mount if I do a tapered shaft? Is there a manual that has the schematic that shows the aft tranny part numbers etc?

Trying to find a shop in the middle of nowhere southern Iowa that might do this for me. Looking like I'll probably end up doing it myself or it'll probably be August before I see it on the water again.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote 8122pbrainard Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: June-22-2020 at 8:40am
Originally posted by TommySki TommySki wrote:


Which manual has the schimatic of the drive shaft assembly?

Tom,
What are you looking for? Part numbers? Strut? Prop shaft will go by length but check it for straightness first. The TIR should not exceed .003". And as mentioned, if needed, a double taper shaft is the way to go Both ARE and General Propeller make them I happen to prefer the GP since I feel their taper at the trans end is a better design.


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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote TommySki Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: June-22-2020 at 2:48am
Thanks for the replies. Very helpful.

Which manual has the schimatic of the drive shaft assembly?
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Jonny Quest Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: June-22-2020 at 12:59am
Originally posted by Far north downunder Far north downunder wrote:

I have just finished repairing my bent strut. Mine was only slightly twisted.

1. A few people said they could straighten my strut, but there was no guarantee that it would be perfectly straight, most said use no heat, straighten cold. I didn't have a press to try it myself and the cost of getting someone else to do it made the decision easy. Also, a new strut comes with bearings installed, the struts aren't that expensive especially when you factor in the cost of bearings if you straighten it. (look for the part number on the strut, Nautique Parts had mine in stock.

2. My shaft was not bent, I thought for sure it was - once its out check it before spending money on a new shaft.

3. The shaft coupling can be an issue if its interference fit, if you are doing it, consider an ARE shaft (if you need a new shaft), or split coupling replacement to make it easier.

4. My engine mounts were seized and isolators were cracked, easy fix but check your mounts before ordering parts as its tough to align shaft when you cant move the mounts. Isolators are cheap and should be replaced if you have remove the mounts to free them up. Skidim has all the parts.

5. There should be no issue with the shaft log, it has no bearings and does not support the shaft.

Up to you whether you change the prop, but I would get it checked if you keep it.

My boat insurance covered the repair costs, check your insurance.



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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Far north downunder Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: June-22-2020 at 12:36am
I have just finished repairing my bent strut. Mine was only slightly twisted.

1. A few people said they could straighten my strut, but there was no guarantee that it would be perfectly straight, most said use no heat, straighten cold. I didn't have a press to try it myself and the cost of getting someone else to do it made the decision easy. Also, a new strut comes with bearings installed, the struts aren't that expensive especially when you factor in the cost of bearings if you straighten it. (look for the part number on the strut, Nautique Parts had mine in stock.

2. My shaft was not bent, I thought for sure it was - once its out check it before spending money on a new shaft.

3. The shaft coupling can be an issue if its interference fit, if you are doing it, consider an ARE shaft (if you need a new shaft), or split coupling replacement to make it easier.

4. My engine mounts were seized and isolators were cracked, easy fix but check your mounts before ordering parts as its tough to align shaft when you cant move the mounts. Isolators are cheap and should be replaced if you have remove the mounts to free them up. Skidim has all the parts.

5. There should be no issue with the shaft log, it has no bearings and does not support the shaft.

Up to you whether you change the prop, but I would get it checked if you keep it.

My boat insurance covered the repair costs, check your insurance.

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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Fabcon Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: June-21-2020 at 9:47pm
New prop, shaft and strut, the strut might be able to be straightened but not sure. There is a strut bearing in the strut that is probably what is hanging out the front. They might be able to save your prop but it looks like the original I would spend the money and put a new Acme prop on it. You can find all the parts at Nautiqueparts .con or Discount Inboard Marine
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote TommySki Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: June-21-2020 at 8:46pm
Need some repair advice.

Let a friend borrow my 93 sport. He hit the dredge line running across the lake. Bent the prop shaft mount. I have not seen it in person yet, only the attached pictures. Looks like the prop shaft mount is bent, not sure about shaft. Hull appears to to not have been damaged.

Having never messed with much behind the tranny. Couple questions.
- where do I find schematic and parts for that shaft mount and any bushings or bearings within? Looks like there is something plastic hanging off the forward end.

- is there a bearing or bushing through the Hull?

- do you think that prop mount can be straightened if heated.

Other suggestions?

Thanks for any help.
Tom
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