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Water leaking through strut bolts

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TonyPresto View Drop Down
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    Posted: August-28-2020 at 4:58pm
No I got it just wanted to see if I could detect any drip before repacking
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote 8122pbrainard Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: August-28-2020 at 4:54pm
Originally posted by TonyPresto TonyPresto wrote:

Can the gland nut be loosened slightly to allow for some leakage

Originally posted by 8122pbrainard 8122pbrainard wrote:

 
Run it and see if you get some water through and it doesn't run hot. Typically loosening the gland will not loosen the packing. Once it's set, it stays. If you can't get any water, you'll need to repack. 

Tony,
You must have missed alot of this thread. Big smile


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Can the gland nut be loosened slightly to allow for some leakage
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote TonyPresto Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: August-28-2020 at 4:20pm
I only hand tightened it but it did stop leaking when I did. I will check to see if it was too much and getting hot.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote 8122pbrainard Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: August-28-2020 at 3:10pm
Originally posted by TonyPresto TonyPresto wrote:

No just put it back in the water today. I will look for a drip. I was thinking that the engine might overheat due to packing being to tight.

Originally posted by 8122pbrainard 8122pbrainard wrote:

Tony,
Regarding the packing glands, be careful with the one on the prop shaft. You don't want it tight to the point where it runs hot. It needs some dripping since the water aids lubrication of the packing. 


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No just put it back in the water today. I will look for a drip. I was thinking that the engine might overheat due to packing being to tight.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote 8122pbrainard Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: August-28-2020 at 2:41pm
Originally posted by TonyPresto TonyPresto wrote:

Took her out today and thermostat stayed at 160 so hopefully I didn’t overtighten gland but on output shaft.

Tony,
It's not the engine temp you need to keep an eye on. It's the packing gland on the prop shaft that will get hot if the packing is overtightened. Also, remember you do need some water dripping through the packing for lubrication. 

Did you end up repacking the prop shaft gland? If so, what did you end up using? 


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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote TonyPresto Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: August-28-2020 at 2:02pm
Took her out today and thermostat stayed at 160 so hopefully I didn’t overtighten gland but on output shaft.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote TonyPresto Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: August-23-2020 at 11:36pm
Sorry, I meant the wires coming from the dashboard switch automatic and manual
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote 8122pbrainard Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: August-23-2020 at 11:30am
Originally posted by TonyPresto TonyPresto wrote:

One more quick question, what are the wire color codes for the automatic bilge pump positive and the manual positive?
On the pump they do vary depending on the manufacturer but typically red for manual and brown for auto. 


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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote TonyPresto Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: August-23-2020 at 10:48am
One more quick question, what are the wire color codes for the automatic bilge pump positive and the manual positive?
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote MrMcD Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: August-23-2020 at 3:05am
Dang, Pete, I wish I knew that about stainless.  I did not know it can gaul.  I guess in all my years of wrenching I have not worked with stainless enough to learn.  Thanks for the tip.  Did the factory use anti-seize on the stainless bolts?
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote TonyPresto Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: August-22-2020 at 9:16pm
That makes a lot of sense as the other rear bolt that was loose cane off easily and the one missing five threads not so must. I believe that I will replace all 4 and as you said, use never seize on them as they are locking nuts regardless. Ounce of prevention.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote 8122pbrainard Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: August-22-2020 at 7:27pm
Originally posted by TonyPresto TonyPresto wrote:

Found the reason for strut bolt leaking. About a 14 inch of threads are missing from where the nut tightens down
When you replace the bolts and nuts, make sure you use some "never-seize" on the threads. SS against SS has the bad habit of gailing and locking up. I'd say that's what happened.


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Found the reason for strut bolt leaking. About a 14 inch of threads are missing from where the nut tightens down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote MrMcD Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: August-22-2020 at 3:11am
Pete, I know 2 gallons in 4 days is not bad at all but I also know it was better than that so I think a minor tweak on the shaft will dry it up.  
Tony, trust those guys telling you not to tighten the packing till you are running and testing it on the water.  I tightened mine hand tight to set it initially.  Ended up pulling it all out and resetting to get my drips correct.
Plan on spending an hour or so on the water adjusting the packing.  Tighten it just a little while running and watch your drips.  As the drips slow down the packing and the nut will get a little warmer.  As we know heat makes things expand and quickly your adjustment can become too tight and shut off water lubrication so go slow and you will get it right quickly.   If there is a professional way to do this I would love to know what that is.  It is easy, you just have to go slow and be patient to get it correct.  I think I got mine down to 10-12 drips per minute in gear idling and left it.  I used the old style packing, not the newer low drip stuff.  When I tried a little bit tighter it started getting warm, 1/8 turn of the nut can be too much so adjust slow.  Parked I did not leak initially at all.  10-12 drops per minute running was just fine with me.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote 8122pbrainard Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: August-21-2020 at 8:29pm
Tony,
There has been some confusion over packing sizes (1/4" or 3/16") used through the years so the best is to measure what's in there. For small quantities, Skidim is probably your best source:



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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote TonyPresto Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: August-21-2020 at 7:13pm
There are different sizes of packing available. What size should be used for the drive line and what size for the rudder on a 93 ski Nautique sport with 351 ford motor?
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote TonyPresto Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: August-21-2020 at 6:41pm
Is there a correct craft part number?
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Where is the best place to get the packing from and what do I ask for?
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote SNobsessed Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: August-21-2020 at 6:30pm
If you have the boat out of the water, I recommend replacing the packing gland material. As Pete said, Gore-tex drips less.  You can buy it for small money.

One way t tell if you have it adjusted too tight is to check the temperature of the gland.  If it is warm to the touch, it is too tight.
“Beer is proof that God loves us and wants us to be happy.”

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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote TonyPresto Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: August-21-2020 at 5:18pm
I just purchased it yesterday and trying to stop all the leaks and change out serviceable parts.
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Sounds like fun
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote 8122pbrainard Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: August-21-2020 at 5:09pm
Originally posted by 8122pbrainard 8122pbrainard wrote:

Tony,
Regarding the packing glands, be careful with the one on the prop shaft. You don't want it tight to the point where it runs hot. It needs some dripping since the water aids lubrication of the packing. 
You need some water for lubrication. What kind of packing is in it? Old flax type needs more that the newer Gortex. Go for anywhere from 3 to 6 drips per minute. There's no "rule of thumb". Run it and see if you get some water through and it doesn't run hot. Typically loosening the gland will not loosen the packing. Once it's set, it stays. If you can't get any water, you'll need to repack. 


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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote TonyPresto Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: August-21-2020 at 5:00pm
So speaking of tightening the shaft packing, when I tightened it by hand and the leak stopped I tightened the locknut and replaced the wire. Do I need to go back and loosen it? Is there some kind of rule of thumb I can use tor the prop shaft and rudder packing?
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote 8122pbrainard Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: August-21-2020 at 4:36pm
Mark,
After 4 days in the water, I don't feel 2 gallons is bad. 


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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote MrMcD Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: August-21-2020 at 4:27pm
I have not touched my adjustment since install 6 years ago.  After a 4 day ski and camp trip I had about 2 gallons inside.  The boat was in the water the whole time.  I need to check the packing, it should not have had that much.  You can dry yours up with some work.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote TonyPresto Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: August-21-2020 at 2:49pm
Just pulled the boat from our lake and checked the strut. It seems pretty firmly in place but between the leak from the two aft screws and the rudder shaft she would fill the bilge in approximately 12 hours if not pumped
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote MrMcD Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: August-21-2020 at 11:58am
What Pete it telling you is the Strut is glued to the hull.  The bolts are there for support while the glue dries.  The factory glue was 5200 which dries rock hard and can be fun to remove. Most on this forum reinstall with 4200 which is a little easier to work with if you need to remove the strut later.
Since you don’t know history on your boat I would pull all 4 bolts from the strut to see if it was glued at all.
It may be loose.  I used a 6” wire wheel on my bench grinder to clean the 5200 off my strut, used a very sharp gasket scraper to clean up the hull where the strut mounts.
This forum gave great coaching and advice which allowed a perfect install 6 years ago now.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote 8122pbrainard Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: August-21-2020 at 6:17am
Tony,
Are the aft strut bolts loose or just leaking? Is the strut loose? If the strut hasn't moved, there's a chance that you could get by with removing the two aft bolts, adding some 4200 and then installing the bolts again. As mentioned, do check the alignment first. 

Regarding the packing glands, be careful with the one on the prop shaft. You don't want it tight to the point where it runs hot. It needs some dripping since the water aids lubrication of the packing. 


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