Boats For Sale:
New Boat- 1995 Super Sport |
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gun-driver 
Grand Poobah 
Joined: July-18-2008 Location: Pittsburgh, Pa Status: Offline Points: 4127 |
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 Topic: New Boat- 1995 Super SportPosted: November-17-2020 at 12:42pm |
That's a darn good idea, " Gump you're a God Damn Genius" I did one side of my Sport but still need to do the other and I think I'm going to do it this way.
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Gary S
Grand Poobah
Joined: November-30-2006 Location: Illinois Status: Offline Points: 14096 |
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Posted: November-17-2020 at 10:52am |
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If you can look at his pictures of his broken bolts you can see they broke off right at the top thread. With 20/20 hindsight if I ever have to take mine off I think I'll drill and grind the bolt heads off first
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gun-driver
Grand Poobah
Joined: July-18-2008 Location: Pittsburgh, Pa Status: Offline Points: 4127 |
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Posted: November-17-2020 at 9:27am |
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Having the bolts break off flush is just bad luck.
Every time I had them break on me there was always a 1/2 - 3/4" piece sticking out that I could get a pair of good quality vice grips on. That along with heating the side of the manifold where the bolt is with an acetylene torch and some 50/50 trany-acetone allowing the heat to draw the oil in worked like a charm.
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TRBenj
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Joined: June-29-2005 Location: NWCT Status: Offline Points: 21198 |
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Posted: November-16-2020 at 6:19pm |
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I don’t see a pic showing whether the bolts broke below flush or not but there are extraction options either way... above flush obviously being easier. It’s usually wise to heat cycle the bolts a few times if they feel like they may break.
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tryathlete
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Joined: April-19-2013 Location: Lake Villa, IL Status: Offline Points: 1799 |
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Posted: November-16-2020 at 5:52pm |
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Gary, Pete—why not use stainless steel bolts? Seems like 316 or 17-4PH would work. If strength is an issue, use hardened steel and apply .0005” of high phosphorus Electroless Nickel plating.
I like anti-seize. |
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Gary S
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Joined: November-30-2006 Location: Illinois Status: Offline Points: 14096 |
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Posted: November-16-2020 at 5:30pm |
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That's good to know Pete but I'd rather not find out
 Whats your thoughts on using anti seize on those bolts. In PCM's instructions they tell you not to but there must be something to keep them from rusting in. Maybe some sort of non harding thread sealant?
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8122pbrainard
Grand Poobah
Joined: September-14-2006 Location: Three Lakes Wi. Status: Offline Points: 41045 |
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Posted: November-16-2020 at 5:13pm |
Not realy a problem. The EDM you mentioned will burn it out too. FYI, the real fancy EDM's will even "tap" threads in hardened tool steel. The electrode is shaped like a tape and rotates as it feeds into the pilot hole.
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Gary S
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Joined: November-30-2006 Location: Illinois Status: Offline Points: 14096 |
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Posted: November-16-2020 at 4:33pm |
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No Pete once their all off the riser separates from the lower manifold and look like this except with bolts broken off in the holes. Then it's best to find someone with a EDM machine they can then remove whats left. Drill a hole for an extractor and end up breaking one of those off in there then you do have problems. This is a PCM manifold I recently bought that had a defect right from the factory on that upper left hand hole. Had to send it back....
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tryathlete
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Joined: April-19-2013 Location: Lake Villa, IL Status: Offline Points: 1799 |
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Posted: November-16-2020 at 4:18pm |
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I suppose using an extractor that far down in the hole was not realistic, but I’m sure the thought crossed your mind. New manifolds are probably a good investment at the 25 year point anyways! You’re doing things the right way. Your interior is in great shape by the way. A few cracks on the passenger seat bottom seem to be all you’ve got to deal with. That’s incredible. On my 96, all the seat bottoms had been redone. I had to replace the rear engine cover pad and the bow triangle. If I had kept the boat, the curved pieces front and back were due for replacement. You might want to hand paint those side decal scrapes since they are NLA. I posted partial artwork for those side decals but they were lost in the website hack—not sure if anyone saved them. All I can say is you’re rebuilding that boat the way it should be done.
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DHMcFadin
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Joined: May-27-2019 Location: Austin, Texas Status: Offline Points: 312 |
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Posted: November-16-2020 at 4:03pm |
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Oh the joys of owning a 25 year old boat. So as you see above, I spent a number of hours cleaning the interior and hull of the boat. Also completed quite a bit of maintenance. I also upgraded the GT40 ECU to the newer 300m calibration. Since then, I've taking the boat out a number of times and it ran beautifly.
The last time I went out, I noticed some new water in the bilge. Replaced the shaft and rudder packing with gortex. Test drove and still had a leak. Filled the hull with water on the trailer and waited. Water started dripping from the shaft log. Turns out the 3M 5200 sealant has started breaking down after all these years. Unbolted the shaft log, slid it down to the strut and then went through a very tedious process of cleaning all of silicon off while laying under the boat. Reinstalled with new silicone and all was good. Took the boat out a few more times and then started to smell exhaust within the boat. Found that now one of the exhaust manifold gaskets started leaking and that one of the exhaust manifold gasket risers had been leaking. The boat sat for about a week while I waited for parts from SKIDIM. Prior to letting the boat sit, I did a pretty thorough analysis of the engine, transmission, v-drive, hoses, dash wiring, battery cables, etc just to make sure there wasn't anything else I might need. Everything checked out. Parts came in last Friday and I brought the boat to the house. Opened up the engine hatch and noticed a small amount of red fluid sitting in the bottom of the boat under the transmission. As you guessed it, the trans has developed a small leak. I looked closely at where the fluid was dripping from and it appears to be from the seal between the transmission adapter housing. I then took note of where the small amount of fluid was pooling. It was pooling within the crevice between the shaft log and the hull of the boat. I now believe that the reason the shaft log stared leaking in the first place is that the 5200 sealant broke down due to extended exposure to transmission fluid. Could be wrong. When I got the boat from transport, there was NO transmission fluid in the bottom of the boat so it's all speculation at this point. Regardless, it looks like I will be replacing the seals in the trans. Moving on from that issue, I circled back to what I originally was planning to repair, the exhaust manifold and riser gaskets. Got the passenger side manifold off and replaced the gasket no problem. Bolts were rusted but I purchased the complete service kit so I was going to be replacing everything including the elbows and hoses. Then I proceeded to unbolt the riser. Put my 1/2" socket to the bolt and gave it a decent amount of force. Felt and heard a "snap". Riser bolt was now sheered off within the manifold. Drivers side was in the same condition. Went to unbolt the other riser bolts. Snap, snap, snap. What was initially going to cost about $150.00 to fix is now an $800.00 repair. New manifolds and riser sare on their way from SKIDIM as we speak. I am still trying to figure out what to do with the trans. I really was not planning or wanting to do much more on this boat for the time being. I wanted to have a boat to go have fun while the longhorn boat was out of commission. If y'all know of any alternatives other than to pull the trans and v-drive out of the boat, let me know. I love working on this stuff so I gotta laugh. It's just one of those things.   
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tryathlete
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Joined: April-19-2013 Location: Lake Villa, IL Status: Offline Points: 1799 |
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Posted: September-27-2020 at 9:52pm |
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Very nice work. You’re restoring a keeper.
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DHMcFadin
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Joined: May-27-2019 Location: Austin, Texas Status: Offline Points: 312 |
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Posted: September-27-2020 at 9:35pm |
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Spent the last week completing some much needed maintenance:
Couple things I found when working on this 25 year old bold.
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FamilyManCCF
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Joined: October-12-2015 Location: Rockford, IL Status: Offline Points: 106 |
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Posted: September-14-2020 at 3:11pm |
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Beautiful Boat! Fantastic shape for 25 years old. Enjoy!
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1968 Correct Craft Barracuda
1998 Nautique Super Sport |
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Donald80SN
Grand Poobah
Joined: January-12-2009 Location: Denver, NC Status: Offline Points: 3896 |
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Posted: September-13-2020 at 8:39pm |
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Sweet Find, great looking boat.
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1980 Ski Nautique SOLD Back to Cypress Gardens
2002 Sport Nautique, GT-40, FCT2, Cover Sports, Tower Bimini, Inc., Wet Sounds Audio System, Star Gazer Wake Edition S. 1968 Ski Nautique, Project. |
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8122pbrainard
Grand Poobah
Joined: September-14-2006 Location: Three Lakes Wi. Status: Offline Points: 41045 |
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Posted: September-13-2020 at 4:54pm |
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Gary S
Grand Poobah
Joined: November-30-2006 Location: Illinois Status: Offline Points: 14096 |
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Posted: September-13-2020 at 4:26pm |
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Are you sure Paul ? I heard a rumor everything up that far north is carrier pigeon- unless you want to go into town for the telegraph.
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gun-driver
Grand Poobah
Joined: July-18-2008 Location: Pittsburgh, Pa Status: Offline Points: 4127 |
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Posted: September-13-2020 at 4:18pm |
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Don’t mind Pete, he’s probably still on a party phone line with dial-up
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DHMcFadin
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Joined: May-27-2019 Location: Austin, Texas Status: Offline Points: 312 |
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Posted: September-13-2020 at 12:34pm |
I used Flickr this time because it retains the image quality but in the past I’ve used Imgur. Let me know if there is a better hosting service and I’ll give it a shot. |
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8122pbrainard
Grand Poobah
Joined: September-14-2006 Location: Three Lakes Wi. Status: Offline Points: 41045 |
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Posted: September-13-2020 at 12:03pm |
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Dominic,
Great find. Enjoy some fantastic water time with it. I too agree that it sure is in amazing shape. I thought I've asked before but maybe not? What photo service do you use for posting pictures? The reason I ask is the amount of time it takes to load on the thread pages.
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MrMcD
Grand Poobah
Joined: January-28-2014 Location: Folsom, CA Status: Offline Points: 3776 |
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Posted: September-13-2020 at 11:23am |
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For a 25 year old boat that is in amazing shape! Very nice.
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gun-driver
Grand Poobah
Joined: July-18-2008 Location: Pittsburgh, Pa Status: Offline Points: 4127 |
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Posted: September-13-2020 at 1:54am |
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I love those intakes.
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DHMcFadin
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Joined: May-27-2019 Location: Austin, Texas Status: Offline Points: 312 |
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Posted: September-13-2020 at 12:11am |
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More pics.           
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DHMcFadin
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Posted: September-13-2020 at 12:07am |
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I've had her for about 2 weeks now. GT40 run's phenomenal, vinyl and gelcoat are in great condition. Everything is original including the wiring. Nothing modified or mutilated. Only non-factory items are a replacement headunit and the FCC upgrade. So far I've completed a full tune up. In the next few months I'll give it a little refresh:
          
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DHMcFadin
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Joined: May-27-2019 Location: Austin, Texas Status: Offline Points: 312 |
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Posted: September-11-2020 at 8:33pm |
I'll have to post some pictures of mine tomorrow. Our SS has the older style FCC where the low and high pressure pump are separated. The low pressure pump is hung down below cylinder 8 and the FCC canister is mounted in the normal location in front of cylinder 5 but the top of the fcc has 6" fuel riser tubes. The fuel rail hose connects to the top of these two 6" riser tubes. It's definitely a little odd. Especially compared to my DD gt40.
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Gary S
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Joined: November-30-2006 Location: Illinois Status: Offline Points: 14096 |
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Posted: September-11-2020 at 6:48pm |
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For obvious reasons PCM calls that a reverse riser engine. This is supposed to be the FCC bracket R090181 for that engine and the way it's made goes on the transmission side of the 5,6,7,8 cylinder bank. Hoses for the for the reverse riser are available as well.
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hal2814
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Joined: June-20-2016 Location: Bedford, TX Status: Offline Points: 76 |
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Posted: September-11-2020 at 4:19pm |
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I had a 95 Super Sport until last year. I’m curious how they mounted the FCC. The kit for direct drives doesn’t work.
Noise? Yes. Vibration? No. How is the alignment? As far as prop that really depends on what you want to do. I was running about 3,000lbs of ballast and wakeboarding/surfing mostly. I went to an ACME 1234 and it was amazing for that but forget top speed for that setup. |
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Gary S
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Joined: November-30-2006 Location: Illinois Status: Offline Points: 14096 |
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Posted: September-11-2020 at 2:46pm |
Actually Tim I only had the info for the 380,I never had any others to try. It seemed to do what I needed so when a new 380 came up for 200 I jumped on it for a spare. I lost what little info I had since it was on my phone so I will have to redo that sometime. I will check the vdrive ratio as well.
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tryathlete
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Joined: April-19-2013 Location: Lake Villa, IL Status: Offline Points: 1799 |
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Posted: September-11-2020 at 9:38am |
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If you keep an eye on the dipstick and only put in what you take out you can manage the ATF level pretty well. I used to top off the level at end of season and measure what I suctioned out as a measure of what to put back in. Never had a problem doing that.
The 30W that went into the Walters V-drive was another issue. I stopped changing it every year and went to every other year as it was always crystal clear and topped off. I kept the bilge pretty dry and as long as you don’t let the water down there get to the trans level you should never have an issue. |
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DHMcFadin
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Joined: May-27-2019 Location: Austin, Texas Status: Offline Points: 312 |
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Posted: September-11-2020 at 9:21am |
Thanks Gary. Could you also clarify, how many quarts of atf are you putting in your trans? Again, manual tells me 2 but I keep reading conflicting information with the "v-drive trans". I initially poured 2 into the trans but that the oil line sits almost at the top of the fill tube. I know there is a hot and cold procedure. Just seems a little off.
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TRBenj
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Joined: June-29-2005 Location: NWCT Status: Offline Points: 21198 |
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Posted: September-11-2020 at 8:18am |
Gary, it looks like you have some speed data for the different props... do you have corresponding rpm (wot) data? I assume your set up is a LH GT40/1.5:1 v-drive (model/brand?) that allows the RH prop? There’s some confusion on propping the slightly earlier Excels, but there appears to have been a few different engine rotation/v-drive ratio set ups. Any insight/info you have would be appreciated. |
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Gary S With 20/20 hindsight if I ever have to take mine off I think I'll drill and grind the bolt heads off first[/QUOTE wrote:
