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Gary S View Drop Down
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    Posted: October-06-2020 at 3:24pm
 
Originally posted by desertskier desertskier wrote:

It sounds like he is already going directly from the battery to his new "fuse bus".


Originally posted by DockDoc DockDoc wrote:

I totally get that running a dedicated wire to the battery may be helfpul, but I'm leaving that for last.

Originally posted by Gary S Gary S wrote:

My Shamrock with a PCM engine does the exact same thing turning off my chart plotter even with both batteries on.  My plan is to run a separate feed straight from one of the batteries up to the dash.  

To add to what I said above I'm running 2 batteries with a Perko switch. Both batteries are blue top Optima's 800 CCA,one being brand new last November. Starter is a several year old Arco. Plotter is wired through the boats original wiring system - the hot feed just pulled off the main in the fuse block.Even with the Perko switch combining both batteries to start, the electronics still shut off.  It has to be the way PCM has wired their system. A direct feed from the battery should solve this.
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tryathlete View Drop Down
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Originally posted by burban65 burban65 wrote:

Peter........I bet your stereo sounds great!
Now, if we can only get you back into the right type of boatSmile


Yeah don’t worry. A 2010- onward 409 or DI engined ski nautique open bow is out there waiting for me. The real question is can I last long enough to get it. The prices need to take a good dump before then. At least I got a good deal on the other brand to hold me over.
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Originally posted by AAM196 AAM196 wrote:

One would think if you had the permanent power wire for headunit and amp direct to battery and the "turn on wire for radio to it's own breaker (you could use the heater or shower spot if you don't have one of those) that as long as that breaker is on your radio would just stay on regardless if the key is turned.

This is how I have led interior lights etc.
 

Yes one would think! I don't even have an amp, just a self-powered subwoofer (that is also wired to my fuse block).
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Peter........I bet your stereo sounds great!
Now, if we can only get you back into the right type of boatSmile
SRB
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One would think if you had the permanent power wire for headunit and amp direct to battery and the "turn on wire for radio to it's own breaker (you could use the heater or shower spot if you don't have one of those) that as long as that breaker is on your radio would just stay on regardless if the key is turned.

This is how I have led interior lights etc.
 
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I went with the Wetsounds 6 channel amp as I have no tower but wanted lots of house speakers and a 10” sub under the dash.

https://www.sonicelectronix.com/item-101109-Wet-Sounds-HTX-6.html?utm_medium=cpc&utm_source=bing&utm_campaignid=268483169&utm_keyword=wet+sounds+htx-6&utm_matchtype=e&utm_device=m&msclkid=bc5ee7a0f06c12261397b8dc57faf081&utm_campaign=Item_Brand+SKU+New&utm_term=wet+sounds+htx-6&utm_content=101109+Wet+Sounds+HTX-6
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Originally posted by tryathlete tryathlete wrote:

I think you might want a little bit more on the power side but the concept seems great. How does it turn on and off? I suppose you need a lighted switch to kick
It off.


True - what amp do you use?
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tryathlete View Drop Down
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I think you might want a little bit more on the power side but the concept seems great. How does it turn on and off? I suppose you need a lighted switch to kick
It off.
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DockDoc View Drop Down
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Originally posted by tryathlete tryathlete wrote:

https://www.crutchfield.com/S-ASxTPjmOSnk/p_13691369/JL-Audio-MBT-CRXv2.html

Yeah this seems like the way to go, thanks... I also stumbled on this... takes it one step further, the amp itself has the bluetooth connection, wouldn't need any head unit at all! Might give it a go...
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https://www.crutchfield.com/S-ASxTPjmOSnk/p_13691369/JL-Audio-MBT-CRXv2.html
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Originally posted by tryathlete tryathlete wrote:

The Bluetooth bullet doesn’t quite provide the level of pleasure that some of those things found in the Quinner toolbox, but it does provide nice sound, which we can call aural pleasure. I hope I spelled that correctly. It’s basically a small Bluetooth controller from JL Audio that provides high definition audio connectivity to anything you connect to it using Bluetooth. I just don’t think I had any reason to install a head unit to get am/fm/CD any longer. I even get sat radio on my phone. It’s a big space saver too. I went this route on the advice of Swatguy who has been a huge asset to my primitive stereo install skill set. 

This sounds great... do you have a link to the product you used? I agree, I never use anything except bluetooth, and I can't see the damn screen anyway. Just need something that reliably connects to my phone (which my head unit does about 50% of the time) and is easy to work with while under way / distracted.
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The Bluetooth bullet doesn’t quite provide the level of pleasure that some of those things found in the Quinner toolbox, but it does provide nice sound, which we can call aural pleasure. I hope I spelled that correctly. It’s basically a small Bluetooth controller from JL Audio that provides high definition audio connectivity to anything you connect to it using Bluetooth. I just don’t think I had any reason to install a head unit to get am/fm/CD any longer. I even get sat radio on my phone. It’s a big space saver too. I went this route on the advice of Swatguy who has been a huge asset to my primitive stereo install skill set. 
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Originally posted by desertskier desertskier wrote:

I would still try bypassing the accessory switch.
Will do. Also, I think I'm due for a new battery - the date on mine is 6/2011 (!). After reading some threads, going to get a Group 65. 

Originally posted by tryathlete tryathlete wrote:

I installed a sound system last winter and decided to skip the head unit for a Bluetooth “bullet”. I ran a dedicated power and ground to the battery for the amp and the bullet. I also ran a lighted LED switch for the turn on wire (amp) as well as the bullet.

Last thing I wanted was to have to re-synch my phone and Bullet every time I hit the ignition. I would bypass your upgraded buss and head for the battery directly for the whole system.

Have to be honest, I am not really following you. What's a bluetooth bullet? (By the way - googling this was unhelpful, lots of sex toys).

I totally get that running a dedicated wire to the battery may be helfpul, but I'm leaving that for last. I've got huge dedicated power and ground lines going to my fuse block, and then appropriately gauged wire going the ~2 feet from the fuse block to the radio. Just find it hard to imagine that there's any noticeable drop in voltage because of the fuse panel you know? 
 


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I installed a sound system last winter and decided to skip the head unit for a Bluetooth “bullet”. I ran a dedicated power and ground to the battery for the amp and the bullet. I also ran a lighted LED switch for the turn on wire (amp) as well as the bullet.

Last thing I wanted was to have to re-synch my phone and Bullet every time I hit the ignition. I would bypass your upgraded buss and head for the battery directly for the whole system.
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I would still try bypassing the accessory switch.
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Originally posted by desertskier desertskier wrote:

Have you made any voltage measurements while the engine is cranking?


No, I can try that.
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Originally posted by desertskier desertskier wrote:

It sounds like he is already going directly from the battery to his new "fuse bus".


Yup. Sorry, fuse block.
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It sounds like he is already going directly from the battery to his new "fuse bus".
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I think it's #1 but have never looked into it. My Shamrock with a PCM engine does the exact same thing turning off my chart plotter even with both batteries on.  My plan is to run a separate feed straight from one of the batteries up to the dash.  
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Have you made any voltage measurements while the engine is cranking?
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Originally posted by desertskier desertskier wrote:


Temporarily connect the turn-on wire to the same dedicated source as the radio.  If it still turns off your radio dedicated power source is the problem.  Or connect both to your new 12V bus bar.  Basically try to eliminate one of the circuits as the problem. Or connect both directly to the battery (fused) and see if it still turns off.


So basically that’s how it’s setup - the turn on wire and the radio hot wire are connected to my fuse bus (which is connected directly to the battery via 8 gauge wire, pos and neg).
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Temporarily connect the turn-on wire to the same dedicated source as the radio.  If it still turns off your radio dedicated power source is the problem.  Or connect both to your new 12V bus bar.  Basically try to eliminate one of the circuits as the problem. Or connect both directly to the battery (fused) and see if it still turns off.
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So annoying that my stereo restarts everytime I start the engine up... i.e., picking up the skier. It resets the bluetooth connection, and half the time I can't get it back. First world problems. 

From searching the net, it looks like two possible explanations: 

1. Stock wiring cuts off power to the stereo's turn-on wire. 

or 

2. There's a voltage drop when starting that causes the turn on wire (and radio's power wire?) not to get enough voltage to stay on. 

I'm assuming it's more likely 2nd option because I've already beefed up the wiring to the dash - dedicated power and ground buses under the dash. The radio has its own power and ground source. The turn-on wire goes from the power bus to a dash accessory switch so I can control the radio power independent of the ignition switch. Yet the dang thing still shuts off when I start the motor. 

Suggestions on how to fix this? I have a single battery setup.
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