Jabsco RWP and Timing Set replacement

Thanks for all the help. We got it apart again and used permetex water pump gasket maker between the metal plate and the timing cover. Felpro between circ pump and metal plate. Back in business. Think the issue was that the timing cover was a bit rusty and pitted. The outside seal would work but we were getting a leak around the extra bolt holes in there that aren’t used.

Well. Good and bad. Put it all back together and the engine fired up. Used permetex 2 and fel pro gaskets and it leaks bad. Think the water is leaking out of the small gap on on the bottom of the circ pump casting. The gap looks to be original. Any thoughts. Our thoughts are to take the circ pump housing off and try to clean the surfaces better. They are pretty clean. All bolts on the pump are new and torqued to 13.5ft lbs. We went ahead and timed it even though it was leaking. Was off a bit bc the new chain is nice and tight. Timed it and she seemed to run well but with the leak we didn’t go over idle at the dock.

David,

We shall see. I got the timing cover loose but didn’t take it off. Just wanted to make sure it would come off for next weekend.

Got the timing cover loose. Ken, a few hits with a hammer and wood block and then back to the pry bar and the timing cover broke loose. Ordered a timing chain and gasket kit today. Also picked up some permetex 2. Ordered the RH seal from ski dim yesterday. Is a new eccentric necessary. Looks like a part that would last? Also, is engine assembly lube needed or is oil fine for this install? Hoping to have it all and install next weekend.

KENO wrote: The installation tool in the link has the right threads for your crankshaft. link

If we wanted to replace the bolts while we were at it, what would be the go to? Stainless? Zinc, grade 5 or regular? Also, any torque specs for the bolts or a good site with this info. I’ve watched a few YouTube’s and no mention of torque.

Where to get the ccw seal and what are we looking for in regards to two part eccentric? I want to have the parts to fix next time I go to the lake. Would summit have these too? If so I can do one large order.

Or should we take apart one weekend and then buy parts and put together the next weekend?

This prob won’t be fun but I’m looking forward to learning. Once back together I assume we will have to time as the new timing chain will be tight?

This sounds awesome! And yes it is that bolt. I’ll look around for a timing set...any recommendations? Also are there gaskets we need to have on hand to replace. From some videos I see on a bronco we will need engine rebuild lube and spare oil to drench the timing set.

Are you talking about this bolt?

Yes. We were looking to take the pulley off to:
1) get the bracket on and
2) maybe put the larger pulley on.

That said, it was on good. We felt the bearing puller was about to do damage. Heat would be the next try.

We decided to mod the bracket a bit and just need a new hole in it. I’ll get it on the drill press tomorrow maybe. The 6” should spin it more and it doesn’t look to need shimming at all. Impeller is coming tomorrow with new o ring and gasket. Hoping to get it on the boat for Easter weekend.

6” is on a Sherwood pump. Can’t get it off. Just tried a bearing puller. No luck. You know how it is on there. Our 7” pulleys have a key and set screws. Got them off.

Working with some older pumps we had in the parts bin. Our current setup has a 7” pulley. We may go back with a 6”. Will that affect the cooling? Replacement is a nice Sherwood.

I did try to glue mine and it was an utter failure!  I did not research anything about it though. Just tried JB weld.  Then sought out a replacement pump and was back in business. Mine had the exact hose on the intake to accept a 1-1/4” inlet as that was the size of the cooler out hose.  I thought mine was hacked together sometime in its life but that must have OEM!

To follow up on my initial question...is this pump housing dead?  My theoretical fix...I could chip out the gouged plastic (pic 1) and fill w epoxy and then smooth the entire inside (note the crack forming in pic 2 also).  Would I need to heat or sand to remove the melted on black rubber (2nd pic)?