Boats For Sale:
Exhaust Manifold - Repair or Replace? |
Post Reply 
|
| Author | |
SNobsessed 
Grand Poobah 
Joined: October-21-2007 Location: IA Status: Offline Points: 7102 |
 Post Options
 Thanks(0)
 Quote Reply
 Topic: Exhaust Manifold - Repair or Replace?Posted: May-17-2021 at 6:39pm |
|
Use a tapered socket about the right size. Tap it in with a hammer until cooler looks round again.
|
|
|
“Beer is proof that God loves us and wants us to be happy.”
Ben Franklin |
|
 |
|
|
Jonny Quest
Grand Poobah
Joined: August-20-2013 Location: Utah--via Texas Status: Offline Points: 2979 |
Post Options
Thanks(0)
Quote Reply
Posted: May-17-2021 at 4:35pm |
|
You can attempt to re-shape the tranny cooler. Worst case is you may need to install a new one if the re-shape is unsuccessful. Not too expensive, so you don’t have much to lose.
JQ
|
|
|
Current
2003 Ski Nautique 206 Limited Previous 2001 Ski Nautique Open Bow 1994 Ski Nautique Open Bow Aqua skiing, ergo sum |
|
|
|
|
poecs13
Groupie 
Joined: July-10-2017 Location: Dallas, TX Status: Offline Points: 51 |
Post Options
Thanks(0)
Quote Reply
Posted: May-17-2021 at 10:59am |
|
re: trans cooler
Just pulled off the intake hose and found that the opening on the cooler is not perfectly round, flat on one side. I'm guessing I probably knocked it at some point and maybe overtightened the band clamp. My first thought is simply bend it back into shape? Any best practices for that other than going at it with pliers/vice grips? Thanks!
|
|
|
|
|
poecs13
Groupie
Joined: July-10-2017 Location: Dallas, TX Status: Offline Points: 51 |
Post Options
Thanks(0)
Quote Reply
Posted: May-16-2021 at 12:27pm |
|
Just pulled the exhaust manifold and riser on both sides so I can hopefully get to a machine shop first thing tomorrow morning. Can the exhaust manifold gaskets be safely reused or do I need to get fresh gaskets?
Also, the port side elbow gasket looked like this when I separated the elbow:  I assume this is damaged and I need to get another one? Will report back on trans cooler soon. Thanks!
|
|
|
|
|
8122pbrainard
Grand Poobah
Joined: September-14-2006 Location: Three Lakes Wi. Status: Offline Points: 41045 |
Post Options
Thanks(0)
Quote Reply
Posted: May-14-2021 at 7:14am |
|
Machine shop or go back to the flat file.
On the trans cooler, understand it's a thin copper so you do need to be careful with them. When you get a closer look, get back with us to where the leak on the cooler is.
|
|
|
|
|
KENO
Grand Poobah
Joined: June-06-2004 Location: United States Status: Offline Points: 11112 |
Post Options
Thanks(0)
Quote Reply
Posted: May-14-2021 at 6:38am |
|
Did you recheck your nuts after things heated up to make sure they're still tightened to whatever torque you tightened them to? Back in post #1 you asked about taking things to a machine shop, maybe it's time to do that so they can take a small cut on both the riser and manifold surfaces The water from the cooler when shutdown is telling you that when running you have an air leak that will affect the raw water pumps ability to get a good suction at low speeds. There's a vacuum there when the pump is running so no water leaks out, just air leaking in, then when you turn it off and the vacuum is gone, you have water leaking out.
|
|
|
|
|
TRBenj
Grand Poobah
Joined: June-29-2005 Location: NWCT Status: Offline Points: 21186 |
Post Options
Thanks(0)
Quote Reply
Posted: May-13-2021 at 10:11pm |
|
The surface condition looks good but leaks can still occur if it’s not flat. Sanding blocks are usually a good idea on mating surfaces like that.
|
|
|
|
|
poecs13
Groupie
Joined: July-10-2017 Location: Dallas, TX Status: Offline Points: 51 |
Post Options
Thanks(0)
Quote Reply
Posted: May-13-2021 at 9:56pm |
|
So the metal file was slow going, so I changed over to a power sander. Seemed to get a pretty good result:
  Reinstalled with new gaskets. However, still have a slight trickle coming from the rear of the port riser. I did not apply any type of sealant, and have read mixed reviews on that on prior posts. Any thoughts on next steps? Try sealant? Did I mess it up with the power sander? Also, I noticed that after shutting down the engine, the transmission cooler has a nice steady trickle also. No trickle present when the engine is running. I'm guessing this is not normal behavior, right? Ran out of daylight so will have to investigate that one further this weekend.
|
|
|
|
|
poecs13
Groupie
Joined: July-10-2017 Location: Dallas, TX Status: Offline Points: 51 |
Post Options
Thanks(0)
Quote Reply
Posted: April-06-2021 at 5:03pm |
|
Okay...what about getting the studs out? They appear to be rusted in. Worth trying to replace? Will I do more damage than good trying to replace? Recommended products and methods?
|
|
|
|
|
Jonny Quest
Grand Poobah
Joined: August-20-2013 Location: Utah--via Texas Status: Offline Points: 2979 |
Post Options
Thanks(0)
Quote Reply
Posted: March-28-2021 at 10:55pm |
|
Permatex Anti-iSeize lubricant is what I use.
|
|
|
Current
2003 Ski Nautique 206 Limited Previous 2001 Ski Nautique Open Bow 1994 Ski Nautique Open Bow Aqua skiing, ergo sum |
|
|
|
|
poecs13
Groupie
Joined: July-10-2017 Location: Dallas, TX Status: Offline Points: 51 |
Post Options
Thanks(0)
Quote Reply
Posted: March-28-2021 at 7:42pm |
|
Sounds like I'll give the filing a shot!
JQ, any recs on anti-seize product?
|
|
|
|
|
Jonny Quest
Grand Poobah
Joined: August-20-2013 Location: Utah--via Texas Status: Offline Points: 2979 |
Post Options
Thanks(0)
Quote Reply
Posted: March-28-2021 at 12:10pm |
|
+1 on clean up the mating surfaces with a file. Good to go. I like to put a piece of wadded-up paper towel inside the exhaust manifold opening to keep any debris from falling inside. Then carefully remove the wad. If it was my boat, I would install new bolts. I like to use a bit of anti-seize lube on the install, but then back off the torque a bit. You can find grade 8 bolts from Fastenal that will work well.
JQ
|
|
|
Current
2003 Ski Nautique 206 Limited Previous 2001 Ski Nautique Open Bow 1994 Ski Nautique Open Bow Aqua skiing, ergo sum |
|
|
|
|
SNobsessed
Grand Poobah
Joined: October-21-2007 Location: IA Status: Offline Points: 7102 |
Post Options
Thanks(0)
Quote Reply
Posted: March-28-2021 at 9:01am |
|
You should be able to clean up the gasket surfaces with a file. Just keep it flat & don't be in a hurry. I would't worry about cleaning out the inside, other than to flush out loose debris.
|
|
|
“Beer is proof that God loves us and wants us to be happy.”
Ben Franklin |
|
|
|
|
poecs13
Groupie
Joined: July-10-2017 Location: Dallas, TX Status: Offline Points: 51 |
Post Options
Thanks(0)
Quote Reply
Posted: March-28-2021 at 8:40am |
|
At the end of last season I noticed some water leaking out between the exhaust manifold and riser elbow. As a part of spring maintenance, decided to replace the gaskets. I only pulled the starboard riser, and had to apply some force to break it free from the manifold. Upon inspection, there's definitely a lot of corrosion. It also appears that what remains of the original gasket is corroded to the riser. Pictures are attached for your viewing pleasure. I'm assuming that pulling the port riser would yield a similar result, but let me know if that's a bad assumption.
I'm still fairly new to DIY motor work, so just seeking a little guidance on what direction to go in here. I haven't tried this, but I'm guessing that just slapping the new gasket on as is won't create a proper seal. So knowing that, can I take the manifold and riser to a machine shop to have them clean up the mating surfaces? Would a machine shop have a method to clean up the internal corrosion as well? Or is it time to invest in a new set of risers and manifolds? Thanks as always for the great help and advice!      |
|
|
|
|
Post Reply
|
|
Tweet
|
| Forum Jump | Forum Permissions You cannot post new topics in this forum You cannot reply to topics in this forum You cannot delete your posts in this forum You cannot edit your posts in this forum You cannot create polls in this forum You cannot vote in polls in this forum |
Topic Options