Protec to DUI pics

There are a few additional incidentals…new plug wires, new plugs, wire, connectors, electrical tape.  You get the idea.   I recommend removing the thermostat housing to facilitate dizzy installation (the pics above show the tight clearances). Then you would add the cost of a new thermostat and gasket. 

For future reference:

Finally got time to work on the DUI conversion again yesterday.    Used a hex socket on an extension to rotate the oil pump slightly so that the dizzy would drop in exactly where there was the greatest thermostat housing clearance at #1 at TDC.   Set the timing, driveway test, lake test, and skied behind….Great way to start the weekend.  

Definitely can tell the change from the old failing protec.  Starts are immediate, idle is more consistent, and acceleration is smoother.

Can not say thank you enough to all the CCF members that:

• Posted about the DUI in the past as a solution for a failing protec (I had never heard of a DUI before searching here)
• Provided detailed instructions on doing the conversion and experiences in doing the conversion. 
• The members in this thread who help troubleshoot the clearance issue by providing options and related information.

I know it can get a little old answering repeat/similar questions from newer members (some of the threads on this conversion are a decade old), but it is REALLY appreciated.  Thank you.

I think I would keep it simple and just start over with #1 at TDC.  If you just pull it out you can rotate the body and keep the rotor in the same place but you will have to move all the wires to the new locations.  Either way you will have to move the wires but it could get a little confusing.  I had to turn the oil drive shaft with a hex driver (don't remember what size) to get the distributor to seat.  Make sure that whatever tool you use will not be able to fall into the engine.  If you use a socket or extension make sure to wrap some tape around them so they can't fall off.  Otherwise it is pretty easy to turn and get it to seat.  Also, once you set the engine to #1 TDC you can position the rotor to any terminal that you want.  Just make sure to connect the #1 wire to that terminal and then follow the firing order for the rest of the terminals.

TRBenj wrote: There’s enough slop in the thermostat housing bolt holes to generate some radial clearance, if needed… suggest having a gasket on hand before breaking that seal though.

I did not have to use a spacer on the old RR 351.

Are there any thermostat housing options from other years that might move it a little to give more space?

You can get a longer shaft on the distributor, (1” I think it was)
I had to do that because of the manifold I was using.

Unfortunately yes. I think someone either here or on the Shamrock boat site made a spacer to go between the intake manifold and the lower thermostat housing to give them some extra room.

davidaha wrote: My 92 SN has started cranking very slow when hot and is not quick to start when cold.

Thank you.   DUI and wires ordered.   Estimate is 5 weeks til shipping on the DUI...so hoping the protec holds together a little bit longer.  Jonny Quest walked me through the conversion process.  

Yup.  ProTec.  I see a D.U.I. in your future (hopefully just the distributor kind...)

And is this the tell tale failure leak?

https://photos.app.goo.gl/DvcmjCMRuqNZZM6A9

Have read quite a few posts on the protec to DUI conversion, but want to confirm with some pics.   My 92 SN has started cranking very slow when hot and is not quick to start when cold.    

Is this a pro TEC?

https://photos.app.goo.gl/Bf3iqzjFwMmtt6NR7