Drive Damper 88 SN2001 |
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kbahus
Newbie Joined: July-16-2018 Location: MI Status: Offline Points: 32 |
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Posted: June-15-2022 at 6:21am |
Back on the water, thank you for all of the information as it really made the job go smoothly.
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kbahus
Newbie Joined: July-16-2018 Location: MI Status: Offline Points: 32 |
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Excellent info, thanks for taking the time. I jumped on the project this afternoon and it came apart with little fuss. I need to clean up the bellhousing, flywheel, etc as it was really gunky and nasty back there. The rear main was leaking so I pulled that out as well. If all goes well I can put it back together Tuesday. I didn't realize the transmission mounting bolts that attach to the stringers are just through-bolted and don't go into the wood. I thought I would be resealing those bolts so that was a nice surprise. That transmission is one heavy sucker for as small as it!
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KENO
Grand Poobah Joined: June-06-2004 Location: United States Status: Offline Points: 11112 |
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Here's a link to an old thread with some pretty good instructions in the second post from the end
You can probably skip the 3 phase electrical discussion in the linked thread
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KENO
Grand Poobah Joined: June-06-2004 Location: United States Status: Offline Points: 11112 |
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Like you said, it's cumbersome, not so much for the removal but for reinstalling the transmission.
The bellhousing has 4 studs and 2 bolts that hold the transmission on. On the installation, it's a whole lot easier to slide the transmission forward on the studs while you're trying to line up the input shaft with the splines. The studs are taking most of the weight and sorta acting as alignment pins. (Sometimes you see 2 studs and 4 bolts) In the SkiDim video he has no studs and has to install a couple but that's a PCM transmission not your Borg Warner. Getting the shaft into the splines can still be "not much fun", but you've probably seen in the videos that you can rotate the output shaft slightly while pushing forward to get the shaft in. If you leave the mounts on the transmission and unbolt them from the stringers or cradle, it gives you more to grab on to when removing and reinstalling the transmission from the bellhousing. You're wrestling with around 125 pounds with the mounts on as compared to 100 ish without the mounts but even though it's heavier it's still easier with the mounts on It's been done both ways but leaving the mounts attached to the transmission and sliding the transmission off of the bellhousing studs is easier
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kbahus
Newbie Joined: July-16-2018 Location: MI Status: Offline Points: 32 |
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The parts showed up from Skidim and I am getting ready to start on this project. I am curious from the research I have done online and Skidim's videos, as to why it is necessary to remove the transmission and bellhousing seperately? Is it just too cumbersome to remove as an assembly? Also, is it best to remove the rear mounts from the transimission and rotate them out of the way or unbolt them from the wood stringers?
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KENO
Grand Poobah Joined: June-06-2004 Location: United States Status: Offline Points: 11112 |
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Here's a link to a thread with some info and pictures
I'd loosely bolt it on once to make sure it's on right, then mark it, remove it and cut it |
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kbahus
Newbie Joined: July-16-2018 Location: MI Status: Offline Points: 32 |
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Thanks for the info, made the order today and will just shave that damper down. I appreciate the help!
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KENO
Grand Poobah Joined: June-06-2004 Location: United States Status: Offline Points: 11112 |
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The short, quick easy answer would be Yes on all 3 items but the trimmed damper plate you show is sold out..
If you want to get everything at SkiDim, they sell the drive plate too. Here's a link to it. It needs trimming for the Ford flywheel link to plate at SkiDim You can read about trimming it with a search here on CCF or ask for a link |
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kbahus
Newbie Joined: July-16-2018 Location: MI Status: Offline Points: 32 |
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It is time to tackle the drive damper on my 88 SN2001 351W and fix some oil leaks. I just wanted to confirm that I am looking at the correct parts as I would like to have everything on hand before I tear into it. Do these parts look correct?
Damper: https://bpi.ebasicpower.com/shop/marine-transmissions-and-parts-borg-warner-velvet-drive-zf-hurth-paragon/borg-warner-velvet-drive-parts/drive-damper-flex-plate-marine-triangular-for-volvo-io-ford-and-gm-120-8-1446 Rear Main Seal: https://skidim.com/seal-rear-main-351-rh-1pc-1983-on.html Transmission Input Shaft Seal: https://skidim.com/oil-seal-front-pump.html
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