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Help needed for backfire ? issue

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    Posted: July-05-2022 at 12:21am
Todays update. Took the boat out and again ran w zero issues. I will mention that there is the slight shudder after running hard and then coming back into the no wake zone. This is the shutter I had mentioned in another post. Could be the motor isn’t balanced 100% internally, could be a number of things, most of which I am clueless about. For now I am focusing on the current backfire popping. None of that today. She ran fast and strong. I did notice some smoke at initial startup though. I made a point of feeling the coil once back at the dock. I don’t have an IR thermometer. All I can say is it was very hot. I could basically put my hand on the valve covers and the exhaust manifolds. I could not keep it on the coil, way too hot. Is this normal or indication that the coil is running too hot. Should I order the coil mentioned above from Rock Auto? Thank you
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote KENO Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: July-04-2022 at 8:49pm
Since you're ordering from Rock Auto, I'll guess that you're getting a Standard FD 471.

That works just fine with the Pertronix module.

It's a 1.5 ohm coil, doesn't throw flames, was originally meant for points ignition systems and with points you needed the ballast resistor. With the Pertronix module you don't need the ballast resistor so you get full voltage to the coil and to the module.

When your present Pertronix coil was installed, the resistor was most likely bypassed, so just unwire the Pertronix coil and wire the new one in. 

A friends boat has the pertronix module, FD471 coil, no resistor and runs great, no issues after long idling periods.

I've used the BWD coil in the same setup with no issues and just threw in the Echlin (made in Poland) equivalent to keep the NAPA boys happy Wink
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote merbesfield Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: July-04-2022 at 2:16pm
Good idea. I do t know anything about resisters or such.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote gun-driver Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: July-04-2022 at 2:03pm
Originally posted by merbesfield merbesfield wrote:

Thanks guys. Makes perfect sense about the heat issue coming from within. I will order a new coil from Rock Auto and see if it makes a difference. First I will try to reproduce the issue again by idling w the box closed. Then once the problem occurs I will feel the coil and see how hot. Then I will sit for a while and let it cool down and then see if the problem is gone temporarily. Thank you

When I had this issue with my ‘85 I narrowed it down to the coil getting hot by cooling it with a rag dampened with cold water. Boat ran normal in just a few minutes after cooling.

I think I remember there being something with a resisted coil verses a non-resisted one, depending on if you were using the ballast resister on the back of the motor or not. 🤔
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote merbesfield Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: July-04-2022 at 11:04am
Thanks guys. Makes perfect sense about the heat issue coming from within. I will order a new coil from Rock Auto and see if it makes a difference. First I will try to reproduce the issue again by idling w the box closed. Then once the problem occurs I will feel the coil and see how hot. Then I will sit for a while and let it cool down and then see if the problem is gone temporarily. Thank you
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote KENO Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: July-04-2022 at 7:12am
The coils mentioned earlier will work just fine with your Pertronix module.

Less maximum output voltage, but still more than you really need.............. Plenty to fire the plugs on a stock 351.

They work with points and the Pertronix module is basically just a set of electronic points.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Gary S Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: July-03-2022 at 10:33pm
Yes the heat is not coming from the engine- it's the coil making the heat from internal resistance. 
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote MourningWood Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: July-03-2022 at 9:00pm
I don't think the wrap is a good idea. If the coil is overheating, it is bad and needs replacement. Since the coil is the thing that may be getting too hot, the wrap will only keep the heat in. Probably not what you want or need. 
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote merbesfield Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: July-03-2022 at 8:48pm
I’ll keep the wood 🪵 handy😂 I agree I think the coil is the problem. KENO, you mentioned buying generic coils above? Will they work with my Pertronix set up? Has anyone ever wrapped their coil with the header heat wrap? I wonder if it would make a difference? I’m just glad it’s working at this moment. I will try the extended idle with the board under the box for air flow.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote KENO Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: July-03-2022 at 8:06pm
Originally posted by merbesfield merbesfield wrote:


What changed.
I kept the engine box open a small amount w a 2x4.
I didn’t idle for long time like the other day.

So, what does this tell us if anything?

Thanks again.

It tells me..............keep the 2x4 handy and don't idle for very long Wink

Do you run the blower when you're idling?

I'd probably try a long idle with the 2x4 in place just to see what happens.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Jonny Quest Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: July-03-2022 at 4:30pm
It sounds like the coil is getting hot and that the extra airflow allowed the coil to stay cool enough to not shut down.  Even a new coil can fail if they get too hot.  A buddy has a 1984 S.N. and his coil started acting up in a similar fashion.  New coil.  Bingo.  Problem solved.  

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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote merbesfield Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: July-03-2022 at 11:42am
So, the mystery continues. I spoke w my mechanic and he confirmed we did replace the entire Pertronix system including a new brand matched coil.

Here’s the mystery. I took the boat out yesterday. Short idle out of no wake zone then hammer down. Ran perfect! I continued to use it in various combinations of idle and fast etc and could not get it to repeat prior day’s experience. Temp never went over 160.

What changed.
I kept the engine box open a small amount w a 2x4.
I didn’t idle for long time like the other day.

So, what does this tell us if anything?

Thanks again.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote merbesfield Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: July-02-2022 at 2:54pm
Thank you guys. I will report back.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote MrMcD Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: July-02-2022 at 12:01pm
Could not agree more, the Coil can certainly give you the issues you are facing.   Hope that is all it is.
No mechanic is needed just a couple basic tools, your camera as mentioned already and a 1/2 hour of your time.

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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote 02Air Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: July-02-2022 at 10:59am
Your symptoms sound very similar to what we experienced a couple years ago on my dads 86 2001. I think KENO has provided good advice about the coil, that turned out to be our problem. The final diagnosis was placing a hand on the coil when it was experiencing those symptoms after a long idle, it was scorching hot. Went to local auto parts store and bought a plain black coil, no “hot spark” or performance coil needed, in fact the failed coil on our boat was a “fancy” coil that was only a few years old.

For $30 it’s worth a try, especially considering just about anybody can swap out a coil in 15 minutes. To make the project especially fool proof just take pictures of the wiring connections before you disassemble, use those photos as a reference to ensure the wires are hooked up correctly with the new coil.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote merbesfield Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: July-02-2022 at 10:19am
KENO I cannot 100% remember if we replaced the coil but I’m fairly certain we did. I remember having the conversation about how they can go bad. I will call my mechanic and ask him. Do the coils you listed work with the Pertronix setup? I know they try to tell you only their coils will work so curious. This problem has me so frustrated, not to mention it’s the 4th weekend and I have 7 teenage girls that want to get on water.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote KENO Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: July-02-2022 at 7:38am
If you don't know what the vacuum and timing are doing, you'll just end up throwing parts at it till you get the right part.

You mentioned a new Pertronix setup. Was that just the module or the module and a new coil too?

If the coil is old, I'd throw a coil at it. They can do things like get hot, have insulation breakdown and make your engine run lousy especially on acceleration when the load on the ignition system is heavy, back off to idle and it runs OK again..

Then you let it cool down and it's OK till it gets hot again

If you're looking for a coil to throw at it, go to your local parts place and ask for a coil for a 67 Ford Mustang with a 289. Just a cheap non exotic standard coil, nothing "high performance" or "high output" or "flame thrower"

A few part number examples would be   BWD E70     Standard FD 471    Echlin IC10     or something that cross references to those numbers. Around 30 bucks or so, at least for the first 2 examples

If you just put a new coil in, then I guess you can ignore this

If nothing else, you'll have ruled out the coil and you'll have a good spare coil to go with your spare ignition module.Wink

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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote MrMcD Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: July-01-2022 at 10:15pm
Your engine should stay the same temp any time it is idling not mater how long you idle if your cooling system is up to speed.  If something is wrong and it heats up while you idle that needs to be addressed.   Check the exhaust manifolds and Thermostat housing with an IR gun while idling and after a hard run.   It should be warmer after the hard run than after a long idle.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote merbesfield Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: July-01-2022 at 9:11pm
Originally posted by KENO KENO wrote:

You had a low speed "shudder" a few years ago, is this a continuation of that issue or did that get fixed along the way?

Like Morning Wood suggested a vacuum gauge will give you some good information to decide where to go from here.

I'd get readings right after you start it and again later when hot and having been run long enough so that you're having  the problem

What eventually makes the problem go away, a long slow idle home and you let the engine cool off............or something else?

Keno, nothing makes the problem go away until it cools back down. I don't think it is vacuum bc wouldn't that be a problem all the time, not only when hot? Is vacuum something that could change as the engine gets hot? As I said before, if I take it right out, it hauls butt. And no issues. Only when extended Idling. 

Edit, the shudder problem was something else if I recall. 
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote merbesfield Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: July-01-2022 at 9:08pm
I had a revelation last night when I was not able to sleep. I think I have figured out what is causing the problem, but I don't know the solution. I think the issue is directly related to heat or heat soak. I had the issue in front of me but didn't really think about it. Logically speaking here, I can start the boat take it out and it performs awesome. The problem occurs only after extended putting around, which would likely cause the engine temps to rise. So I think the problem is something is getting too hot and it is causing it to fail. So my question for you experts, what would get hot and cause the problem I have? Could the pickup on the Pertronix unit fail if too hot? Any other ideas? Thanks, Mark
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote KENO Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: June-30-2022 at 6:58am
You had a low speed "shudder" a few years ago, is this a continuation of that issue or did that get fixed along the way?

Like Morning Wood suggested a vacuum gauge will give you some good information to decide where to go from here.

I'd get readings right after you start it and again later when hot and having been run long enough so that you're having  the problem

What eventually makes the problem go away, a long slow idle home and you let the engine cool off............or something else?
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote MrMcD Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: June-29-2022 at 9:45pm
Lift the engine cover while you idle for your test.  Keep the spark arrester in place, you should clearly hear if it pops back through the carb.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote merbesfield Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: June-29-2022 at 5:38pm
Originally posted by MrMcD MrMcD wrote:

If the backfire you mention is only a pop out the carburetor and not a true backfire that makes a bang out the exhaust?   I would look at the accelerator pump on the carb, if you don’t get a goos squirt when the throttle is cracked up you can get a pretty good pop back through the carb.  No idea why it would only do it after a very long idle, heat soak maybe?

How do you determine where the backfire comes from? It is hard for me to know. 
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote merbesfield Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: June-29-2022 at 5:27pm
I don’t think it’s carburetor related simply Bc I had the carb rebuilt by a very good specialist and the problem is exactly the same as before I had it rebuilt. So unless he missed something, which is always possible, but not likely. I feel like this shone something simple but it is frustrating bc I am not a mechanic and finding one on the lake is challenging. Thank you
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote MrMcD Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: June-29-2022 at 5:17pm
If the backfire you mention is only a pop out the carburetor and not a true backfire that makes a bang out the exhaust?   I would look at the accelerator pump on the carb, if you don’t get a goos squirt when the throttle is cracked up you can get a pretty good pop back through the carb.  No idea why it would only do it after a very long idle, heat soak maybe?
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote merbesfield Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: June-29-2022 at 4:54pm
I am by no means a mechanic. So I have not personally checked the timing, but I would have thought (I know, never assume) that my mechanic who did the work would have checked the timing. I will call and ask. My question is, why does it only appear to do this when extra long idling? If I start it and take it right out, it hauls butt. I do have to idle for a short period out of the no wake zone and there are no issues with this. Only appears to do it when extended low idle putting around, then hammer down. Thank you guys. Very disappointing to not be able to run my boat. 
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote MourningWood Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: June-29-2022 at 4:30pm
Also, if you can, connect a vacuum gauge  and check for steady needle at idle. (when hot)
I ran into this with a buddy's '83. The carburetor relies on a vacuum signal to transition from idle to acceleration. His vacuum leak was just enough to affect that transition. Did what you describe. The solution was to remove/replace intake manifold with new gaskets. Still running perfectly. 
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Jonny Quest Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: June-29-2022 at 4:11pm
+1 on re-checking timing.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote pjsmoreno Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: June-29-2022 at 3:09pm

Could be one of three things. Air fuel ratio, bad spark plug or the timing. Since you change over to a Pentronix Setup on the distributor, you might have moved the timing some. I want start by rechecking the timing first.

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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote merbesfield Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: June-29-2022 at 2:02pm
I just realized I didn't list the boat info. 1984 SN 351 with Holly carb. 
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