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Partial Carb Rebuild.

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uncle-buck View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote uncle-buck Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Topic: Partial Carb Rebuild.
    Posted: May-05-2023 at 9:58pm
75, I recommend looking at the flexible fuel line with fittings setup offered by SkiDim for $117. It makes disconnecting and reconnecting the fuel line from/to the front carb bowl much easier.




Ken, I replaced the following gaskets:

1. between the front bowl and metering block
2. between the metering block and main body
3. between the main body and metering plate assembly
4. between the metering plate and backing plate



And used only one gasket with the power valve.

Vince's videos aren't perfect, but they are generally helpful.

If we could only get you to make instructional videos...
1990 Ski Nautique (original owner)
PCM 351W with D.U.I.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote KENO Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: May-05-2023 at 2:30pm
Originally posted by Gary S Gary S wrote:

Ah you type faster Ken LOL

No way Gary, I probably just started typing earlier Wink
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote JoeinNY Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: May-05-2023 at 2:08pm

I see you cleverly left out any mention of what size power valve you used this time.......good move.Wink
[/QUOTE]

My power valve goes to Eleven!

Hard to get too much effect just spraying into a carb - the stuff you can see being cleaned off doesn’t effect how the boat runs, but it does effect how your carb looks so there’s that.   

IMHO- seafoam is usually better than nothing (unless it breaks something loose that gets stuck in a small jet or passage and keeps you from getting home - but that’s rare and you probably weren’t getting home anyway.   If you don’t have gaskets sometimes spray and a straw can clean out a single bit of debris if you can target the right port, however more often than not things have to come apart if it’s got actual issues running- hard to beat a soaking and compressed air blowout when things have gone too far.
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1967 Mustang 302 "Decoy"
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote KENO Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: May-05-2023 at 1:54pm
A curious person might wonder why there seemed to be 2 power valve gaskets installed in the video and he might also wonder why there was no backing plate for the secondary metering plate.

The video could use a little clarifying commentary on the backing plate being on some and not on others.Wink


So Buck........how many gaskets did you put in?  You have a backing plate?

I see you cleverly left out any mention of what size power valve you used this time.......good move.Wink
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Gary S Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: May-05-2023 at 1:46pm
Ah you type faster Ken LOL
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Gary S Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: May-05-2023 at 1:46pm
Larry what you need is a flair fitting wrench,basically it's a box wrench with a slot cut in it so the tube can pass through. Available in 6 or 12 point,6 would be the best. If you have an old wrench you could make one or go online,or  Harbor Freight 




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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote KENO Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: May-05-2023 at 1:39pm
Are you using a 6 point flare nut wrench on the fuel line fitting or just a regular open end wrench?

If 9/16 is too small and 5/8 is too big because the nut is rounded over, a 15 mm falls in between those 2 sizes.

You can buy flare nut wrenches in metric and SAE sizes.

Harbor Freight sells sets of both pretty cheap.

If it's too rounded over for any of the normal stuff, there are those things called vise grips Wink
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote 75 Tique Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: May-05-2023 at 12:46pm
Shortly after I got my 176, it started loping at idle pretty  badly.  I was intimidated to dig into it as Holleys seemed pretty complex to me.  I got so I could tear down clean and reassemble my Edelbrock blindfolded and one arm behind my back (as that was an at least once a year routine.  The idle jets in those liked to clog up)  I finally gave in and did to my Holley exactly what Bert described and it was good as new.

For the first time in four seasons, this spring it was starting a little hard and loping a bit again.  I figured it was time for a redo, but I hit a snag.  I couldnt get the fuel line fitting undone.  I didnt try too hard as I didnt want to round anything off.  Seems that 9/16 was too small and 5/8 had enough slop in it to risk rounding, so I aborted.

As an alternative, I dumped some seafoam in the tank and tried the now, apparently, controversial spray cleaner down the throats.  I sort of figured what Rob said was true, but nothing to lose, trying.

Apparently one or the other (likely the first) solved the problem.  Starting better and no more lope, so hopefully good to go.

That being said, any recommendations on how to get the fuel line off the carb?  I know its going to have to happen some day. Or, as is prone to happen, I know that connection can start leak (happened to me once before.  Loosen the bottom, tighten the top, tighten the bottom)  I'd like the ability to make that fix if that happens.







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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Jonny Quest Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: May-05-2023 at 11:15am
Spraying Carb Cleaner down the barrels while running only cleans the carb surfaces where the cleaner contacts.  The real magic happens when the carb is disassembled and the carb cleaner is sprayed directly into the small passageways and metering blocks inside the carb.  No substitute for that IMO.

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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote 63 Skier Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: May-05-2023 at 11:10am
Joe what's your opinion on carb cleaner use while the boat is running?  Obviously better to clean it up when removed, but I used to periodically spray down the throat when at high idle speed and I could visually see it getting cleaned, figured it was cleaning passages as well.  Then later read that the cleaner is wiping oil from the cylinder walls and can cause ring issues or affect compression.  Not sure what to believe on that one.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote JoeinNY Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: May-05-2023 at 9:14am
Carb cleaning/rebuilding is definitely one of the most satisfying mechanical things one can do - not rocket science and often produces magical results. Becoming a lost art even among mechanics-
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote uncle-buck Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: May-04-2023 at 8:38pm
Did a partial rebuild on my boat's Holley 4160 carb a couple of days ago:
cleaned both bowls, the metering block, and metering plate 
replaced the four associated gaskets
blew out all passages with compressed air
replaced the power valve

Had almost forgotten how easily the boats starts and how well it runs.
For $20 worth of gaskets, a can of carb cleaner, a power valve, and a couple of hours of time, it was well worth the effort.

Vince at SkiDim describes the basic process in the video linked below.



1990 Ski Nautique (original owner)
PCM 351W with D.U.I.
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