Intermittent No Start

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I'd probably read the thread in the link as a next step
link

And if you're thinking about the PIP, you either take the distributor out and disassemble it to replace the PIP or get a whole replacement distributor with a cast iron gear or reuse your gear that you have now making sure it's located on the shaft properly because the aftermarket gears and the Ford gears usually have different locations for the pins and redrilling would be necessary once the gear is located properly

A distributor for a 94 f-150 with a 351 with a cast iron gear will work. Cheap at places like Rock Auto , Amazon, Ebay local parts store, etc and numerous people around here have used them. Do your homework with a search here on CCF. The cap has a vent that you'd need to seal with RTV so it doesn't do any venting for marine use to minimize chances of an explosion in the case of a gas leak  

you could look at this link too, more better pictures, boneflier obviously had an easier time posting pictures on planetnautique 

link

PS..............The relay for the fuel pumps doesn't have anything to do with making a spark, the ECM takes care of that through it's relay.

Another PS, I see you did the old cut and paste double barrel shotgun approach from your post in the thread that was linked up above from planetnautique. 

Have you put power directly to the fuel pumps, bypassing the relay, and tried starting the engine since in your other post here on CCF a couple weeks ago you mentioned that you couldn't make the pumps run with the STO connection but they would run with power supplied, but I don't see any mention of trying to start it at that point?  It'll help narrow down your problem.

If it runs good like that, then your PIP/distributor isn't the problem.

 modularman wrote:

Hello to lewy2001. You seem quite knowledgeable about the Ford EEC IV diagnostics. I am hoping you can help me with my boat. I am new to boat ownership. Recently picked up a 1995 SN GT40 Pro Boss. The boat is incredibly clean. It was very well maintained prior to my ownership. That having been said, I noticed after getting the boat home it would have an extended crank condition. After about one minute of cranking it would fire up and run well. When trying to restart after running it a both, it would fire right up. Once it cooled back down, it would go back to an extended crank. Without getting any time to diagnose the extended crank, I took it to the lake for a quick shakedown, and once in the water, it cranked and fired immediately (faster than it ever started before cold) but would stall after 1-2 seconds of running. It kept doing this at the lake. So back on the trailer and back home. Played with ignition switch (which looked new) and it fell apart while removing it. Figured that was it. Threw a new switch in it and no change. Noticed at this point, fuel pumps don’t prime but will pump when directly jumped to 12v source (could not get the pumps to activate through the STO diag port). After reading your post, I checked my battery box for a fuse (no fuse present), battery cables clean and tight, lanyard attached and appearing to work. I tested for power at both of the plugs that power the relays next to the ECU and found power only at terminal 30. No power at the other terminals no matter if key was on or off. I’m assuming this is the issue since I’m supposed to have power to terminal 86? Seems odd that the running concern changed after simply towing it to the lake. I’m assuming the vibration on the trailer has caused the running concern to change? Let me know what you think. Thank you in advance for any help you can provide.

Intermittent No Start

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