Boats For Sale:
Strut Mounting |
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David F 
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Joined: June-11-2004 Location: United States Status: Offline Points: 1770 |
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 Topic: Strut MountingPosted: November-29-2006 at 8:57am |
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because it does not need to be there. The only real need is to seal the mounting holes against water intrusion.
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Zonour
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Joined: January-11-2006 Location: United States Status: Offline Points: 51 |
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Posted: November-28-2006 at 10:58pm |
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When your learning curve is shaped like mine, you become adept at preparing to undo what you've done or have planned to do!
I have just never worked with the stuff and am curious as to why I didn't find it there in the first place. |
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'02 Ski Nautique 196 SE
[URL=http://www.correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details. asp?ID=1627&sort=&pagenum=1& |
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25XS
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Joined: October-31-2005 Location: United States Status: Offline Points: 16 |
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Posted: November-25-2006 at 8:37pm |
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3M products: 5200 and 4200 are both polyamide adhesives that are perfectly fine for use as "bedding compounds" for attaching inboard rudder and strut hardware. They both cure soft enough to remove in the future. Home Depot's got the best price going for either, so order it if your local store doesn't stock it. Get the "Fast Cure" formula of either one and you won't have the bedding compound dripping on the floor of your garage when it should be curing at the hardware to keep your boat dry. Geez, once in a lifetime and you're worried about removing it already???
BTW, silicone products have no place below the waterline of a boat. |
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"Stock Stuff" by day... Racing Mercury outboards on the weekends.
1991 Nautique Excel "thousands" of hours... |
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Zonour
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Posted: November-24-2006 at 7:38pm |
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I thought about that right after I posted. Let's pretend I wrote it the other way around the first time.....
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'02 Ski Nautique 196 SE
[URL=http://www.correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details. asp?ID=1627&sort=&pagenum=1& |
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Darrel
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Joined: June-16-2004 Location: United States Status: Offline Points: 340 |
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Posted: November-22-2006 at 7:30pm |
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Unless i misunderstand what you are saying.... you will need to set and mount the strut before you can align the shaft and coupler.
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Zonour
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Posted: November-22-2006 at 7:20pm |
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David,
Thanks for the reply, I think I'll go the life caulk route after I align the shaft, if there are any future problems with the caulk they at least can be easily rectified. I'll keep you posted. |
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'02 Ski Nautique 196 SE
[URL=http://www.correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details. asp?ID=1627&sort=&pagenum=1& |
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David F
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Posted: November-22-2006 at 8:57am |
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I usually smear a thin coat of the caulk on the mounting plate of the strut mainly to fill any voids caused by imperfections in the strut or hull recess.
I then mount the strut with two bolts temporarily to hold it in place. Then I apply a generous bead of caulk around the head of each machine screw (about 1/2" of the screw). I caulk, insert and nut the two screws not previously installed. I then remove the first two screws and caulk them. Finally, I do fill the void around the strut and hull recess mainly to improve water flow. |
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Zonour
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Posted: November-21-2006 at 5:58pm |
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4200 and 5200 are both 3M products that I haven't used yet, I think they are types of epoxy adhesives and I know that 5200 is commonly used when putting a new bottom on a wood boat. The guy who advised me to use it claimed that the strut would be easily snapped off if there is a need to remove it in the future. I really don't know, I haven't used it before, but any epoxy (like the west system I have used before) seems to be pretty strong stuff to me.
David, When you used the life caulk, where specifically did you apply it? Just around the holes or in a perimeter bead around the whole plate? I have used life caulk with good results around the bolt holes for the swim platform. The Southwind will live in the water over the summer. Thanks |
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'02 Ski Nautique 196 SE
[URL=http://www.correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details. asp?ID=1627&sort=&pagenum=1& |
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David F
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Posted: November-21-2006 at 9:18am |
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I am not a fan of glueing any hardware on the boat. CC did not glue the hardware or running gear in place. If you use a hardening type sealant/glue then vibration will be transmitted more readily.
My personal choice is Boat Life Life Caulk. Can be used underwater, applied under water and never hardens. IMHO, there is absolutely no need to glue anything in place. |
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Nautique Mike
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Joined: June-20-2006 Location: United States Status: Offline Points: 147 |
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Posted: November-21-2006 at 8:44am |
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Guys-
What product are you talking about when you mention 5200/ 4200? Thanks- NM |
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Nautique Mike
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Mercrewser
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Posted: November-21-2006 at 8:13am |
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Wouldnt 4200 be a better choice, so he can get the strut off again?
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1969 Chris Craft Commander SS #39
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Darrel
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Posted: November-20-2006 at 8:01pm |
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it wont really bead its more runny so be prepared....cover up it will drip.
I like the Gor-tex packing keeps me from buying a dripless system. |
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Zonour
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Posted: November-20-2006 at 6:44pm |
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Thanks for the info folks, did you spread the 5200 evenly across the strut plate or just a bead of some sort? Sounds like I'll go for the new packing material as well.
I appreciate the responses. |
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'02 Ski Nautique 196 SE
[URL=http://www.correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details. asp?ID=1627&sort=&pagenum=1& |
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Darrel
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Posted: November-17-2006 at 2:04pm |
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I just did this a couple months ago. Used the 5200 on the strut and the new gor-tex packing.
Cutting and fitting the new packing was way eaiser than i thought. Took all of about 2 minutes from pulling the old out, cutting and reinserting the new. |
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Shortline
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Joined: November-03-2006 Location: United States Status: Offline Points: 37 |
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Posted: November-17-2006 at 9:52am |
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I used the new SDIDIM packing this season. It was great. It is easier to handle than the waxy stuff. It worked great. This year I am installing a new PSS seal but I'll still use the new stuff in my rudder.
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It wouldn't be that hard if the balls weren't so far apart and the boat wasn't going so damn fast!
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Munday
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Joined: August-17-2004 Location: United States Status: Offline Points: 538 |
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Posted: November-16-2006 at 7:02pm |
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The ones I have reset,I used west system epoxy with some micro fibers to thicken it up.Scratched up both surfaces with sandpaper and bolted up.One old century I needed to shim the strut so I tighten it into position and then retightened when epoxy was hard.Never had any failure,and I like the idea that the bolts are glued in too.
Munday |
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Zonour
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Posted: November-16-2006 at 6:33pm |
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Folks,
I've just had the prop reworked on my Southwind, had the shaft checked for straightness, picked up a new coupler, and replaced the strut bushing (or is it a cutla$$ bearing?). It's time for everything to go back together. There was a thin layer of rubber like clear stuff (possibly silicone) on the top of the strut plate where it meets the hull. The guy that did my prop advised me not to use any sort of non-hardening substance like caulk- he recommended using a coat of 5200 to form a solid mounting for the plate that doesn't transmit or amplify vibration. I haven't done one of these before- any ideas? Also, has anyone used some of that newer shaft packing that DIM has advertised? If so, what size? Thanks for any thoughts/guidance. |
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'02 Ski Nautique 196 SE
[URL=http://www.correctcraftfan.com/diaries/details. asp?ID=1627&sort=&pagenum=1& |
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