Stringers, foam and more foam

The alignment takes 10 minutes or 10 hours, alot of patience is involved. torque really isnt a issue on boats the force is more of a pushing force forward into the back of the trans. those mounts are used on everything and if are into solid wood (no rot) they are safe. the torque your thinking of i think is the engine in a car where you have tires touching the ground and when you nail it the engine wants to twist, it does want to twist in a boat also but not to the extent of what you are thinking.
in the past I've also used "C" channel and through bolted them through the stringers which also will give you a clamping effect and then bolt the mounts to the c-channel, If your re-doing everything you can use longer lags and larger diameter lags with epoxy in the holes ( dont go thru the botttem of the boat) If you decide to use longer bolts make sure all of the wood is solid

Gangster, they may put that foam in there for the extra witdh, go to off topic and look at the pictures on the foam removal topic and you'll see, you may want to consider running aluminum angle down the tops of the stringers and setting your mounts on top, if you used 1/4' you could take that up in the mounts
Eric

87BFN owner wrote: I know right where that's at Dave. Had a friend that lived in Grand Haven. We used to camp north of you at Ludington and go to Silver Lake to take the trucks on the dunes now that is fun.

Beatiful country guys, we vacation at Silver Lake every year for a family reunion. Do the dunes and brought the boat last year. My uncle lives about 2 blocks off the lake but has a canal behind his house that takes you out to the lake. We leave it tied up there all weekemd and just motor through the canal to the lake. Lots of campgrounds up there too. The family really loves that place.

87BFN owner wrote: michigan dave where you located, can't say I remember if you have already posted this info.

south haven mi. on the shores of lake MI. east of kalamazoo. south of holland.

dave

Thanks for the help guys, I live an hour from the U.S. border - 2 hours west of Winnipeg, Manitoba. I bought the rub rail out of the U.S. and also some stuff from Skidim and the prices are good to start with. However by the time I pay shipping, duty, brokerage and taxes - ouch!! I've also bought alot of custom car parts the same way when I have no other choice. I definately want to buy the right stuff - even if it costs a premium. I don't want to have to do something over... I'll check out some of the websites - thanks again. Ended up diggin out 9 large bags of foam. I had good luck with a jiffy bar or claw bar, and under the bow I used a trenching shovel - worked awesome. More to follow. Thanks again everybody.

Living in a border state and having experience in this, PLEASE do not try to transport hax-mat across the us/can. border without checking into the consequences. Once the questions start " do you have anything to declare" it will go down hill. You could loose your product, get fined, and loose your privilege of a return to the states. Post 2 or 3 large towns within a hundred miles or so of your home and I will help you find a distributor. then you can work them over for pricing and such. Shipment even within countries on this stuff is expensive.

Use a google search for fibergla$$ repair materials. and include your Provence.

Your answer lies within this list

http://www.ddave.com/mail.htm

dave

Often times shipping haz-mat out of the country is very expensive or unavailable.. I would start your search in the large cities closer to your home. There are many companies that sell fibergla$$ repair and building materials.
Some of which I am sure have outlets in Canada. Don't be bashful about asking for a discount. Your looking at several hundred dollars worth of material. Also resins formulated for the warmer climates of Florida might take forever to setup in our cooler climate. When working with epoxy resins, there are several strengths to consider. These depend on the mix ratio. Work with the salesman and give him the details of your project and he can recommend the product best for your application and environment. I have to have my shop at about 70 degrees to even consider a epoxy project.

This is where I get all my structural epoxy from. I have done a couple transoms with it as well as other repair.

http://www.hydropoxy.com/

Thats a very informative site read and learn.

dave

Both US composites and fibergla$$ coatings are great places to start, Ive dealt with both in the past and found fiber coatings much more resonable on the pocketbook because this isnt a $10.00 fix

Gangster, I think it was me who recomended using epoxy for the structural work and polyester for the cosmetic / gel repair. The epoxys don't absorb water moisture like the polyesters do plus they are stronger. If you do use epoxy and then want to polyester / gel over it, a vinylester must be used between the two because the polyester won't stick to the epoxy. Skibum did run into problems with the vinylester curing and I don't think ever came up with a sound reason why and this was even after he talked to to US Composites guru.

Won't US Composites ship to Canada?