Cant get the crank hub bolt out

79nautique wrote: If you have it lined up, (dots/TDC) then the pointer should be pretty much on Zero then and that is where zero on the tape well be as well.

i love this place

TRBenj wrote: If it were me, Id just put some timing tape over the current balancer. To figure out where to install it, you need to locate top dead center (TDC) on cyl #1. Get a piston stop like this one and follow steps 1 through 6 for the intake center line method described in these instructions. This method would require you to remove a valve cover and the crank pully. Maybe someone else can suggest an easier method.

Well i still have the timing cover off and the timing set is still at TDC #1.

I just got around to trying to clean the balancer, it's really pitted from the brackish water use the previous owner did. I cannot get the engraved lines to come up. Do you think you could maybe measure the engraved lines from a mark like a pulley bolt so i can make new lines? Or how would i go about setting the timing by ear? I called skidim because i was going to buy a new balancer, but it is $477

well the marks should be ingraved in the balancer spray some carb clear/brake clean on that area of the harm. bal and wipe it down to clean it some. Now get a piece of chalk or a lite colored crayon and rub it over the ingrave has marks. now litely wip it off so that it is only in the grooves and numbers. You should also see different length lines. You really only looking for the 8 or 10 degree mark. doing this will make it easier to see the marks now hook up the timing light and set it at 8-10 btdc. once it is there then tighten down the dist clamp and recheck the time to make sure it did not move when you tightened it. hope this helps but if not you are going to have to do it by ear.

YO DOC WHERE ARE YOU HELLO DOC CAN YOU HELP A GUY OUT?

Didn't thing so had time to tell someone about a trailer part but help on putting a dist in is too much to ask I guess.

Since you have the dots lined up you should have the #1 on TDC as well so there are two ways to go about it.

one is just drop the dist in and what ever spark plug tower it points to is your #1 and then you need to change all of the wires accordingly following the firing order of the engine. Don't recommend doing it this way but it will work.

the other way is trace back the #1 lead back to the cap and where that tower is is where the rotor tip should point. Just keep in mind the rotor will rotate some while you are inserting the dist. And you have to pay attention to where the key in the cap is to so that you know where to line the dist base up because it can rotate and will rotate.

So lets try this a little different. With the cap off look for the key/indexing feature of the cap, might be on the bottom of the cap or side, depends on the dist. make and model,

then locate which tower the #1 wire goes too. Now postion the cap in it's normal postion, just hold it in the air over the dist opening in the block with the dist base out. Now look for the indexing feature of the cap and where the #1 tower is these are your refernce marks that you need to line up once it's all done so make some chalk marks, use tape or just remember where they are.

Next instal the dist base so that the rotor lines up where your reference of the tower is, then you want to rotate the base of the dist until the indexing feature is lined up with the other reference point. Now sit the cap on the base and the #1 tower should be over the tip of the rotor. If it's not then you might have to rotate the base a little so that it is. Snug the bolt a little so that the base doesn't rotate too easily on you, start it up and set the timing.

Worse comes to worse and this is confusing to you go back to method one and remember the rotor turns CCW

always a day late and dollar short, where were you when he was having trouble getting it off, nowhere, but you always have time to critize (sp) after the fact, days later, Doc your just a JACK ASS. If your half the man you say you are then you should have spoke up earlier but as always, there wasn't anything to drop ship at cost or collect towards your Hy-Tek dealership.

All you really are Doc is a blow hard coward that won't help out unless it all ready done so you can crittize what was done or suggested we really don't need you comments.

Did you know that they changed the timing set on december 10, 1984? The ones that they had at NAPA didnt match, advance ordered the one that looked close to this one, what a pos.

79nautique wrote: your going to need to remove the valve cover on the drivers side to verify that the cam is in the right postion when the #1 cyl is on TDC before you install the gears and chain. This will allow you to make sure that it is also on the correct phase, intake/exhaust of the cam. Since the gear striped you have to get everything lined up and timed correctly otherwise your in for a major oh sh*t.

When i go dot to dot, the motor should be in perfect time, i dont understand what you mean. Another ford thing?

TRBenj wrote: 79nautique wrote: Mine has a double roller and I didn't have to change or modify the cover to get it to fit. Same here.

good news, but ALSO i went to NAPA and they had the set so im going to buy it

Mine has a double roller and I didn't have to change or modify the cover to get it to fit.

79,

I was surpised to see the gear set that came off my motor had nylon gears. Cheap piece of crap. I'm a firm believer that these motors need a timing chain set at 700 hours.   I got a double roller cloyes set at summit for about $40.

79nautique wrote: I don't know if I would have bought it from advance, but I wouldn't have just bought the gear only and would have got both gears and a chain as a set. A lot of the gears are actually nylon not all but alot, doesn't really suprize me it striped the gears once one or two go the rest go quickly. I'll have to look for the bolt kit. Should be the right one.

I didnt buy the gear, i bought a new chain and they ordered the gear so i can compare and see if it's the right one. if i were to buy it from jegs or something, would it just be a 351 timing set?

is this the right bolt kit? it's from jegs

070-454-1504      SB-Ford Stainless Hex

wannabeSS,

How many hours on the motor? I've seen chains stretch but never busting a gear like that. Especially on these boats where the prop never breaks free. That seems a little odd to me.

just order a set of S/S ARP's from summit or Jeg's. They'll have a listing for bolt kits for teh timing cover.