Electronic Ignition Install Problems |
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Tim D
Grand Poobah Joined: August-23-2004 Location: United States Status: Offline Points: 2641 |
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Posted: April-11-2007 at 7:21pm |
Last summer my cap cracked, I kept cranking trying figure it out, and ended up shorting out the electronic module. Got a new one and noticed it wasn't pop riveted in the same postion with the set screws. So had to reset timing after swaping electronic ignitions.
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Tim D
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Chata9
Newbie Joined: April-09-2007 Location: United States Status: Offline Points: 25 |
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Thanks guys. Went home last night to try and figure this thing out one more time. 79nautique is correct. According to the pertronix directions if you replace the ignitor you need to leave the ballast resistor connected.... the directions for the coil say to disconnect the ballast resistor. I was kinda confused, but it makes sense now. The coil has a built in resistor. If you plan on installing the ignitor and a coil with a built in resistor...... you need to make sure that you bypass the ballast resistor. It fired right up!!! I still had to adjust the timing a little bit, but it sounds great and fires on the first turn. Thanks for the help guys. This forum rocks!
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79nautique
Grand Poobah Joined: January-27-2004 Location: United States Status: Offline Points: 7872 |
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I hope he doesn't have a vacumn advance because if he des then he doesn't have a marine distributor.
Don't care who makes the electronic conversion kit, all of them have to have the timing reset even if the timing was correct before it was installed. It will run at higher RPM's because the mechanical advance is working, increasing the timing so that it can stay running. It won't run at idle because the timing is retarded to much. If it was backfiring then you would have a wire crossed. Now if he reset the timing after the kit was installed and still has a ballast resistor in series with a internal resistor coil then their isn't enough voltage going through the coil and the ballast resistor needs by-passed to fix the problem. |
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Rick
Senior Member Joined: March-03-2004 Location: United States Status: Offline Points: 338 |
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Is it mechanical or vacumn advance. if vacumn do you have a leak. If mechanical did you screw the plate down so hard it blocks the mechanical advance? I vote for a wire being wrong though. The pertronics is really foolproof.
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79nautique
Grand Poobah Joined: January-27-2004 Location: United States Status: Offline Points: 7872 |
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if you did not reset the timing after the conversion was installed, then the timing isn't going to be correct.
The coil has an internal resistor most likely and you do not need the ballast resistor if that is the case. |
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JoeinNY
Grand Poobah Joined: October-19-2005 Location: United States Status: Offline Points: 5698 |
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because you mixed up the wire order when you installed the new ones? all of them are one advanced or retarded, just a guess but if you fire at all and your timing is right then there really isnt any thing else to check.
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Chata9
Newbie Joined: April-09-2007 Location: United States Status: Offline Points: 25 |
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I have looked all over for answers to this and cannot seem to find any help. I just did a full tune up - wires, plugs, distributor cap/rotor, and installed the pertronix electronic conversion kit with the flame thrower coil. Hooked everything up as per the directions. Went to fire the boat up would not kick over. After a dozen or so trys I finally got it to kick over by giving it a little gas, but then it would sputter out and die. The only way it will stay running is if I give it gas. Thought that this was a timing issue, but the timing is right where it should be. The instructions for the coil and ignitor say two different things. The ignitor says to leave the balast resistor connected, and the coil says to disconnect it. Any thoughts as to why it won't idle properly?... it was working perfectly before the install. Sorry for the long post, but I wanted to get all the info out there. Any help is appreciated. THANKS!
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