Forgot to drain block

Randy_in_Ohio wrote: I forgot to drain the water from the block this year when I winterized. I sucked up 5 gallons of the pink stuff, but forgot to drain the block first I can not get the drain plugs out of the manifolds but I did drain the block last year, just forgot this year. After I was done I took a cup and drained a little water out from the plugs into it, it looked kind of pink, but after reading skidog's post got me worried. I guess I could still drain the block only and then fill it up with pink stuff???

Was it at operating temp (thermostat open)when you sucked up the 5 gals. of antifreeze? If it was, you should be OK. That's the same thing I did for 12 years and I have three buddy's that have been doing it that same way for over 5 years each with no problems. As I have said before, I've never touched a drain plug anywhere.

Brian, I'm sure that you are correct regarding the kit from Skidim being the more economical way to go rather than purchasing separately. My major concern is the sediment. I should have been clearer on my description. I really wasn't talking about the occasional chunk from the engine or the manifolds but rather what is sucked up from the lake. We all do not have our boats equiped with raw water strainers and sand and silt from the lake will settle in the low spots. This is especially true with the low water levels we have seen in recent years. I have never found a engine that doesn't have some blocking a drain. It just seems to be the norm and the reason I always probe with a piece of wire. In the other thread, Tim mentioned that he always uses a piece of step flashing to direct the drain water away from his carpet. That's a good idea but I use a small can and manage to get the carpet wet!!!

bmiller wrote: I recommend getting the drain ball cock kit from SKIDIM.I installed them last spring on my enginge an it made draining my block and exhaust manifolds a breeze this fall when it came time to winterize.Well worth the money.

I recommend against the kit. Sorry but it has come up before that it is overpriced and too restrictive for sediment. You can't probe the drain hole with a piece of wire.

better option

Ryan,

Excuse my ignorance, but what the hell is a b-tank?

That shop-vac idea is a good one Gotta ski, I may just do that until I can get these things off this winter and re-do the gaskets and clean them up.

I got some pics of them today, i'll post them later..

Randy, try mapp gas, it gets much hotter, I've found over the years on any pipe thread (NPT) you have to get them as hot as you can or even red and let them cool completely down then remove, dont try when they are red, you will end up pulling threads. if you need to pull the manifolds and bring them down

If you can get an impact wrench give it a try. The sharp jarring action seems to work better than the steady pressure that you get from a breaker bar. I had a similar problems the first fall after I got my boat a few years back. Tried the same stuff you have and had similar (no) luck until I gave the impact a go.

I do have a gas heater in the garage, but only run it when I'm working out there.

I'm telling you, these plugs will NOT come out. I've tried every penetrating oil, heat, big breaker bar, they don't budge!

Anyone who would like to try to get these loose, your welcome to stop by and give it a shot.

I'm thinking if I got them off the engine this winter I could then manage to heat them up enough to get them loose, I think the problem is that there is water in there and they are attached to the block and therefore the heat from the torch is dissipated too much..??\

Randy_in_Ohio wrote: Dr, I keep it in the garage attached to my house, so it doesn't get too cold usually,

Randy, Unless you have a heated garage, Being attached to the house won't make a difference. All it takes is the temp in the garage to be around 30 for several days.

Get the plugs out. Vise grips? Don't worry about saving the old ones. You will what to replace them with brass or like some do, petcocks for easy draining.

leave the water in it Randy..i need spring work
there has to be a way to get those plugs out, use a propane torch to heat the plug then let it cool, but be careful, next time you will only need to tighten them just past finger tight. There is no need to crank on them.
You know these Ohio winters it gets cold and if the antifreeze is diluted with water it raises the freezing point

The manifolds are cheap,dont worry it do not get cold in Ohio.
Remove the inlet hose on the front , attach a length of hose taller than the riser and pour 2 gals. of RV anti- freeze into each side. This would not be as good as draining but should evacuate most of the water and replace it with AFreeze........
Or drag it down here and we will use it thru the winter............