Where to get Reman’d 351W?

8122pbrainard,

This is the history of the boat as told to me by owner#2. It was used as a show boat down in Cyprus Gardens back in '79-80.(I don't place much credence in this story, but whatever.)

Owner#2 bought it then in '85 had to replace the engine and he, working in a Ford dealership, replaced it with what he had avail.

I bought it in '87 and did some minor top end restore work in '94. I would put on average 100 hrs a year up through the last year it ran in '06. I'm not sure how many boating hrs it had on it before I got it or how many miles the truck(70's) put on it, but that engine has lasted and been through one hell of a life with almost no problems.

btw, very good looking Atom & Tique you have there. They've obviously been through quite a lot also.

JoeinNY,

I'm down in Baltimore. I recall Auburn being almost as north as Rochester.

Without looking at it, I'm pretty sure I have a 13x13 prop good shape, which gave me a top speed of 45mph(not sure of RPM, but I kept the motor all stock, no HO). It would do 0-40mph in just a hair under 7 seconds. Again, I don't have burning desire make the switch. I've enjoyed this boat for 20+ years and don't plan on selling, so resale value isn't an issue with me.

Very nice of you for your offer, I guess it sounds like I just have to make the decision to switch up. I want to get the engine ordered within the next week or 2, so I will get in touch with you if that what I end up deciding. Let me know if the 13x13 LH is good with you. What is your prop specs?

JoeinNY wrote: If you decide to go back to right hand, I could make you a good deal for a used right hand starter, distributor, prop, whatever else

I appreciate the offer. Without doing an in depth study, I figure the only thing preventing me would be the additional cost of the parts to switch. I read somewhere someone pointed out it may get harder to get RH Rotat parts if needed in the future. How about Water circulation pump or raw sea water pump, are they different?

I guess I don't have a burning desire to make the switch, but if everyone recommends it, I would consider it.

Waterdog wrote: JoeinNY Does the crank have to be ground for R/Rotation with a one peice rear main seal? The pistons don't have to reversed on the rods (351w)? Any other short block prep to go from std. to R/R ?

DOC,

I didn't fully read the question, I was refering to the bearing surfaces being ground in reverse and the answer to that unasked question is yes. If you didn't do that with yours you may experience premature bearing failure.

As for piston offset I'm afraid you're wrong, the pistons that came out of my 351 were not indexed backwards but the forged Speed Pros that went in were offset so they needed to be indexed backwards. Your statment my be true for stock original parts, I wouldn't know but it is too broad an answer for the endless possibilities when putting these engines back together.

As you guys know I've been chasing this water in the oil thing in my 86 2001 since last summer. I found a 90 351w truck eng. that's never been apart. I'm going to use that block , GT 40p heads and a cam research cam. Scott at cam research quoted me a complete gasket kit W/one piece r/seal for around $150-
Now I have 2 of everything to build one engine
I WAS going to measure the cranks and use the best one? Any more pit falls? The machine shop is a good one is it possible to turn the crank in reverse to grind and polish it ?     

Chris, you have made this statement before,then as now I will disagree.....
165 hrs. later I have not had any issue with the rear seal or any bearing faiures.But maybe I am setting on a time bomb, what do I know.
I researched the L/Hand into R/hand rotation and was told the issue was a non issue.
But maybe it is because I baby this stroker and do not run the DOG SH#T out of her.During the early days of trying to prop her out Correctly she saw 6000+ several times.
Now a day on the lake ends with several blasts at 5200+ till Karen says back her down.She will pull a 12/15 in excess of that rpm for as long as I want to feed that BITCH.
No leaks , no noise nor loss of oil pressure and no doubt that I will not change anything if and when I build another.....Boat dr

Allen , if you use the one piece rear main seal no machine work is required. The knurling are used only on the two piece seal.
Read my post above as to what I did on mine.
Also there is no pison pin offset on the Windor engines, 302 or 351.

Waterdog wrote: JoeinNY Does the crank have to be ground for R/Rotation with a one peice rear main seal? The pistons don't have to reversed on the rods (351w)? Any other short block prep to go from std. to R/R ?

Crank ground for reverse, absolutley.

Depends on what pistons your putting in it. Have your machinist check the pistons for offset and he'll assemble the rods accordingly.

If you decide to go back to right hand, I could make you a good deal for a used right hand starter, distributor, prop, whatever else is different but I don’t remember anything else right now. These guys are right about the transmission it does go either way, but it cant reverse the direction of an engine. Forward always turns the same direction the engine turns, reverse can’t be used to make the boat go forward because it is not strong enough for the full power of the engine. The pump needs to be rotated for the transmission to work at all in the new direction but it’s a 10 minute job fairly painless. I have gone from the correct way RH prop, reverse rotation direction to the “incorrect way” so I could use a standard ground stroker kit, and hydraulic roller cam so I am familiar with the operation, and have a workshop full of the old parts. I am going the long way around by now using a later model pcm transmission to get my prop back the “correctway” but that involves a new transmission, mounts, propshaft, and prop. If you were up and running I would say its not worth it to move to RH just to get rid of the lean, however since IIRC its only about two hundred dollars from rapido to RH instead of LH and for about 225 including shipping I could get you the parts you need to go back I would say go back, if you ever sold it being incorrect would be a serious deduct in price for most people.

TRBenj, it sometimes takes a little bit, but I usually do come around.

Yes, I've always disliked how the boat keels to starboard when I'm the only one in it. But, I did just put a new BW 1:1 lefthand rotat trans in it a few years back, so I guess I'll have to make sure I carry a couple bikini-clad ladies with me to offset the torque.

I'll tell ya, this has always been confusing. I did mis-state in an above post that I had a righthand standard rotation engine. This obviously contradicts each other since a 'standard' rotation engine turns counter-clock wise when viewed from the rear of the engine, which is also called 'lefthand' rotation. I've always known my boat to be 'standard rotation', I just incorrectly tied that to 'righthand rotation'.

Yes, a truck 351W left hand standard rotation engine was installed in the boat in 1985 and is still in it. I'm not sure what the boat had in it originally.

Here are some links to help (at least help me) understand the rotation thing.

http://www.boatpartsinfo.com/engine-rotation.html

http://www.propowermarine.com/faq-rotate.htm

Although, as stated in the links, you can't just look at the prop rotation to determine engine rotation, since the trans may reverse it to make the boat move forward.

Thanks to all for setting me straight on this. I corrected my errors in above posts as not to confuse.

jfarc wrote: Not sure where he's going with that, I don't need a reverse rotation. Like me, my engine doesn't go both ways. Not that there's anything wrong with, mind you... ;-)

wheather or not you go both ways means nothing. But the motor in your boat is a reverse rotation engine from the factory. So if you want to get any old motor that's fine, but it better come with everythign because, your starter, distributor, prop and tranny will not match up with a standard rotation motor.

I had a Jasper class II motor that I had no isuues with, just make sure it has the right oil pan and timing cover, swap then if you need to.

Has anyone on the site used a Jasper reman? Have heard both good and bad. I used a reman 8V-71 Det. Diesel and it was fine - known others which were not.

WD, i meant his is a righty?, he needs reverse rotation? i didnt know

The only total engine tear down and rebuild I've ever attempted was my '69 Bug 28 years ago. Turned a 1500 into a 1660(I think) firebreathing, vette-eating menace. (well, at least the firebreathing part was true, ha!)

I decided 14 years ago when I had the Head corrode through, that if I ever have another water related problem with the current engine that I'd scrap it and get a new one. This for fearing the rest of the engine could have the same corroded thin walls and didn't want to sink any $$$ into it. I think I've definitely gotten my $$$ out this engine.