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Summerization check list

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8122pbrainard View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote 8122pbrainard Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Topic: Summerization check list
    Posted: August-12-2009 at 8:33am
If installed with the inlet/outlet backwards then he wouldn't be cooling. The pump does pump water but looses it's prime. It's got to be sucking air someplace!!


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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote emccallum Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: August-11-2009 at 11:11pm
Is the pump installed properly? I don't know what year you have, but it is verey easy for it to be installed in reverse. Do a search on rwp install.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote 8122pbrainard Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: August-11-2009 at 10:31pm
It's got to be sucking air someplace or the impeller is bad again. Air leaks are tough! I don't know of a way to really check and don't know how your mechanic checked. Besides hose connections it can be the seal around a strainer, the shaft seal on the RWP and even the gasket on the halves of the RWP.


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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote emccallum Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: August-11-2009 at 10:29pm
It should prime very fast. If it doesn't then you eother have a problem with the pump or a poor seal somewhere. Trust the mechanic but verify that there are no air leaks.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote harddock Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: August-11-2009 at 9:55pm
Was the engine drained or was anti freeze added. If drained it would have started dry as opposed to anti frezze which would have been enough to prime.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote winniskier Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: August-11-2009 at 3:23pm
Year 2: Launched boat. Started it without any priming. No water in the strainer after 10 seconds, so I shut it down. I primed the pump by filling the vertical hose coming up from it. Started the boat again, water quickly filled the strainer, thought I was all set. One month later, impeller was fried, probably sent toward its death by 10 seconds of dry spinning. Mechanic says there are no air leaks. I did not see a shut-off valve. I am trying to avoid priming, but it seems like I need to prime. Any thoughts?
Jim
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote 8122pbrainard Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: May-18-2009 at 10:08am
Tom,
Welcome to the site and happy boating.

The M1744 is simply a serial nuber CC put on it. It's not like a HID # with any codes in it. The HIN's weren't used until 71/72. If you contact CC they may be able to tell some details off the build sheet. Stuff like original color, engine, etc.

The engine # however is coded. It will tell rotation, raw water pump type, trans, motor mounts, etc. Someone here may have the index to the code and would be able to fill you in.

The trans just needs a ocasional fluid change. I do mine every couple of years others will evey year. Use Dextron/Mercon - no synthetics!


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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote homebuiltburner Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: May-17-2009 at 11:47pm
I am the new guy on the block. We bought our 66 mustang last summer and the guy I bought it from gave is a very good list on how to launch and care for the boat, or so I thought. After winterizing it and storing it I now have alot of new questions. I hope this is the appropriate place to ask them. When I asked about the trans he told me " you don't want to go there it's fine the way it is, you don't need to service it" I'm a full time mechanic and thought that didn't sound correct. Your thoughts and how??? Also I am looking for answers as far as engine size and wiring diagrams?? appears to be hull #m1744?? and engine seriel#GT21_526251p does this look correct and what does it mean I have, any help is great. I can't wait to get back on the lake, as we got a late start last year due to all the flooding in our area only days after buying the boat.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote tapenick Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: May-12-2009 at 4:21pm
A buddy (maintenance nazi) says to inspect the riser gaskets every 2-4 years.   Every year if ran in saltwater. Thoughts?

Tom
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote 79nautique Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: November-28-2008 at 1:22pm
the threads do not enter any water cavity so there is no need for thread sealer.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote winniskier Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: November-28-2008 at 12:35pm
When I reinstalled the engine and water pump drain plugs this past summer, it seemed that there was some gunk in the threads, making wonder whether it was thread dope. I wiped it off and there was no leakage this summer. Should any kind of thread dope be used or was I just seeing the normal accumulation of junk in the threads?
Jim
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote emccallum Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: July-29-2008 at 12:54pm
Originally posted by 8122pbrainard 8122pbrainard wrote:

Originally posted by emccallum emccallum wrote:

When you put the impeller back in spray it with some wd40 or lube it so it isnt so dry as it primes.


Bad idea to put any petroleum product on the rubber impeller. Even though the new ones are a urethane, you do not want to take the chance of attacking the rubber. Don't do it. I have never put anything in a RWP in 41 years of winterizing marine engines. If you antifreeze it will lube the pump.


According to WD40 it is ok to use on rubber. I see no problem with spraying it on to ease the installation, then having it flushed with thousands of gallons of water for the next 4 months. I would not use wd40 as a "protectant" over the winter, just a bit to help install it. I have only been using it for 25 years, so I may change my mind in the next ten or fifteen.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote SNobsessed Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: July-29-2008 at 1:37am
I put a little dish soap on the new impeller when I installed it this spring.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote 8122pbrainard Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: July-28-2008 at 9:25pm
Originally posted by emccallum emccallum wrote:

When you put the impeller back in spray it with some wd40 or lube it so it isnt so dry as it primes.


Bad idea to put any petroleum product on the rubber impeller. Even though the new ones are a urethane, you do not want to take the chance of attacking the rubber. Don't do it. I have never put anything in a RWP in 41 years of winterizing marine engines. If you antifreeze it will lube the pump.


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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote emccallum Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: July-28-2008 at 6:06pm
I loosen the belts and remove the impeller, during winter. Always fill the tank after adding and running some Stabil thru the system.
Just make sure you mark the rotation and mounting of the raw water pump...some models can be mounted in reverse causing the pump to run backwards. When you put the impeller back in spray it with some wd40 or lube it so it isnt so dry as it primes.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Briman Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: July-10-2008 at 12:50am
I too am finally getting my boat out this week. The brutal floods we have had here in Iowa left all the lakes and rivers high for quite some time (I know know how you guys down south felt last year....we got all your missing water this year). I am wondering how hard is it to burn out all of the fogging oil? Is it ok to take the boat out once, then change the plugs afterwards, or am I headed for a letdown? I'd rather do it this way to burn out all of the stabil. I sprayed the fogging oil into the carb while running until the engine puked per someone on here. Or should I take the plugs out and clean them 1st? Sorry bout the hijack but I figured it's related. Thanks in advance, Brian
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote moses Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: July-06-2008 at 4:49pm
any of you guys out there got a source for leaf springs for my 76 ski tique trailer? they are 31 inches long and 1 3/4inches wide. i also found out if you don't have water to that impeller when you start up it will turn to toast in a few seconds. the fake alake works good. jlmoses
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote behindpropeller Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: July-03-2008 at 3:12pm
Originally posted by winniskier winniskier wrote:

I launched the boat for the first ime this year. It started right up. About 10 minutes later, it was overheating. Turns out the impellar failed. It was one season old, 18 months in the boat. Was this bad luck or should I have done something more? I guess I could look at the fresh water strainer at start-up to make sure its drawing water. Anything else?


If it failed when it was that old the most likely thing that happened is your O ring on your strainer dried over the winter and you were sucking air. Best thing to do at the beginning of the year is to pop the hose off of your raw water pickup and put it in a bucket and let it suck. If it doesn't suck then you have an air leak of bad impeller. Hooking the hose up can mask a problem.

Tim

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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote TRBenj Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: June-29-2008 at 6:49pm
Originally posted by winniskier winniskier wrote:

I guess the question then is how do make sure that it does not run dry in that situation. Should it be primed so it won't run dry on first start-up? Would using a fake-a-lake force water up to the impeller?

No need for priming, etc.

By any chance, does your '97 have a shut off valve on the raw water pick up? My dad's '03 does. If that valve is shut, you'll overheat and fry the impeller pretty quick.

Good call on checking the strainer for water flow at start up. Thats part of my routine every time I launch the boat.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote winniskier Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: June-29-2008 at 6:32pm
I guess the question then is how do make sure that it does not run dry in that situation. Should it be primed so it won't run dry on first start-up? Would using a fake-a-lake force water up to the impeller?
Jim
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote 8122pbrainard Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: June-29-2008 at 10:44am
Originally posted by winniskier winniskier wrote:

I launched the boat for the first ime this year. It started right up. About 10 minutes later, it was overheating. Turns out the impellar failed. It was one season old, 18 months in the boat. Was this bad luck or should I have done something more?


I'd have to say that the impeller has been run dry without water or antifreeze from the winter lay up.


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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote winniskier Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: June-29-2008 at 9:00am
I launched the boat for the first ime this year. It started right up. About 10 minutes later, it was overheating. Turns out the impellar failed. It was one season old, 18 months in the boat. Was this bad luck or should I have done something more? I guess I could look at the fresh water strainer at start-up to make sure its drawing water. Anything else?
Jim
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote 79nautique Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: April-01-2008 at 3:56pm
well I always liked to spray the cyl walls down with fogging oil in the spring before I started it and I would usually what to change the plugs untill some of the old gas and foggin oil burned off.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Keith Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: April-01-2008 at 3:53pm
Originally posted by 79nautique 79nautique wrote:

... It's not a bad Idea to replace the spark plugs also.


Yea, I replace the plugs along with the fuel filter/water seperator in the spring (oil, oil filter, tanny fluid are done during winterization).

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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote 79nautique Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: March-31-2008 at 1:03am
oh well that is in ohio sorry, don't know what to say, but your doing pretty good on your own don't hire anything out and take your time like you have and you shoudl be fine, If you get in a bind stop/wait post your concerns then move forward. Always time to do it right, just don't always have to do it right now, some times it's better to wait and think about it before you create more work. But your doing a dandie job so if you come to a point you are scratching your head wait, ask questions then move forward you'll be happy in the long run.
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79 I am in Akron ohio.....
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote 79nautique Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: March-28-2008 at 5:31pm
Joe where are you located?
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Hollywood Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: March-28-2008 at 4:57pm
Sounds like you could really benefit from flipping through the engine manual, which is available on this site.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote 82wake2001 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: March-28-2008 at 4:51pm
Were is the impeller located on a pcm 351??
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote jbear Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: March-14-2008 at 10:59pm
Better yet...use the boat year-round...right Mark?

john
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