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slalomdude 
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Joined: November-09-2007 Status: Offline Points: 7 |
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 Topic: Noisy transmissionPosted: May-26-2008 at 3:06pm |
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I have a 2000 SN with 350 hrs.When I bought the boat 6 months ago, it had a clunking noise when reversing. I thought it may be the straight cut gears. I now have noticed the same noise when idling forward. Could it be the gears, or maybe excesive backlash. Any ideas, thanks
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Morfoot
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Joined: February-06-2004 Location: South Lanier Status: Offline Points: 5320 |
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Posted: May-26-2008 at 4:54pm |
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Sounds to me like it could be a rigging problem if it's doing it in both forward and reverse. I 'd check it to be sure then call in our transmission guru Eric Lavine he'll tell you for sure what it is............. ( Cue music)... Enter Mr. Lavine!
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"Morfoot; He can ski. He can wakeboard.He can cook chicken.He can create his own self-named beverage, & can also apparently fly. A man of many talents."72 Mustang "Kermit",88 SN Miss Scarlett, 99 SN "Sherman"
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slalomdude
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Posted: May-26-2008 at 6:06pm |
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Ok, you will have to educate me, what is rigging with regards to a tranny?
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8122pbrainard
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Joined: September-14-2006 Location: Three Lakes Wi. Status: Offline Points: 41045 |
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Posted: May-26-2008 at 8:11pm |
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Don't know about the rigging but to me it sounds like the dampener plate. It's the spring loaded means of coupling the trans to the flywheel.
How's the coupling on the prop shaft? If a alignment has never been done on it. it could easily chew up the fit in 350 hours. |
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SNobsessed
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Posted: May-27-2008 at 12:19am |
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I am getting a similar clunking in Fwd at idle. I have a new damper plate so I can rule that out. My ATF was a little low so today I overfilled a bit like Eric has recommended in other posts. I will let you know results of oil level change next weekend - I hope that is it!
Unfortunately my prop shaft is spinning slowly in neutral - maybe will have to schedule a trans rebuild next winter. |
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“Beer is proof that God loves us and wants us to be happy.”
Ben Franklin |
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boat dr
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Posted: May-27-2008 at 12:46am |
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Dumb question to answer ......
Idle speed on a VDrive is critical, any lower than 500 will give a sound simular to what you describe. Try raising the idle a "tad" and see if the noise lessons or leaves.......Boat dr |
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Morfoot
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Posted: May-27-2008 at 12:47am |
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Sorry bout that. Rigging is term used to make sure that your cables are properly aligned in an airplane. You know like when the throttle is at zero in the cockpit, the fuel control on the engine is at zero also...... Make sure the throttle is in neutral and your tranny is in neutral too. Make an adjustment to align the cable to the tranny if necessary by ajusting the push-pull rod.
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"Morfoot; He can ski. He can wakeboard.He can cook chicken.He can create his own self-named beverage, & can also apparently fly. A man of many talents."72 Mustang "Kermit",88 SN Miss Scarlett, 99 SN "Sherman"
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eric lavine
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Posted: May-27-2008 at 10:20am |
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it could be the combination of all of the above, weak dampner plate, miss at idle, too low of idle, these will all contribute to gear slap, which means the gears are bouncing off of eachother and causiong the clunking.
try a dampner first and tune-up and the check the alignment |
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"the things you own will start to own you"
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slalomdude
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Posted: May-28-2008 at 12:25am |
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Thanks guys, one more question, is it more of an annoyance issue, or can it cause damage to the tranny.Thanks in advance.
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8122pbrainard
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Posted: May-28-2008 at 8:47am |
I would look into the possible problem. |
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eric lavine
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Posted: May-28-2008 at 10:27am |
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if not corrected it will cause damamge
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"the things you own will start to own you"
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slalomdude
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Posted: June-04-2008 at 12:33am |
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Thanks guys. I will order new damper from Skidim. Any tips, or advice to make install easier.
I have a GT40 and its idling between 650 -750 Thanks |
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8122pbrainard
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Posted: June-04-2008 at 7:26am |
If you don't have a means of hoisting (tilting) the tail end of the engine up, use a small bottle jack under each exhaust manifold. There is a thread on it but is pretty self explanatory. Don't forget you'll need to do a alignment. |
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SNobsessed
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Posted: June-04-2008 at 8:37am |
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In order to get the damper plate centered, get 3 countersink screws & install them before the regular hex heads. If your flywheel is like mine it will have 6 tapped holes that line up. After you torque the hex heads down, then remove the countersink screws. The holes in the damper plate are .010 oversize, don't ask me why, I didn't design it!
Another pc of advice - loosen your tranny mount ajustment screws while the tranny is out. It will save you some aggravation when you go to do your alignment. |
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“Beer is proof that God loves us and wants us to be happy.”
Ben Franklin |
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8122pbrainard
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Posted: June-04-2008 at 9:13am |
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Chris, You did have the shoulder bolts didn't you? New? The holes in the dampener were 10 over or maybe the shoulder on the bolts were 10 under?
sd, Get some new bolts with it too. dampener bolts Guys, Is sd going to run into the spacing issue between the dampener and the face of the flywheel?? |
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SNobsessed
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Posted: June-04-2008 at 10:54am |
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Pete - I bought new bolts from SkiDim & they weren't any different than the originals. The flywheel's pilot dias & OD of the bolt shoulder is .3125 inch. The ID of the holes in the damper plate is .325. Go figure.
As far as the spacer washers, Vince from SkiDim told me they were not recommended, so I took them out. SD - Hopefully you won't have to do this twice like I did. Chris |
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“Beer is proof that God loves us and wants us to be happy.”
Ben Franklin |
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slalomdude
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Posted: June-04-2008 at 11:10am |
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Good info thank you. I saw a thread where a guy a gap between the plate and flywheel on a Pcm 1.23,I think thats what you were refering to.
SNobsessed, I dont follow on the countersunk screws bit, can you elaborate?. Wonder why they dont use machined bolts, or make a dummy shaft , like on a car clutch, that you could use to line it up. |
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eric lavine
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Posted: June-04-2008 at 12:04pm |
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Pete, he will and will have to space the damper accordingly, if you pull the plate down I personally think it loads the plate, it may be fine I dont know, just a pre-cautionary measure
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"the things you own will start to own you"
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8122pbrainard
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Posted: June-04-2008 at 12:14pm |
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sd, Chris used the flat heads temporarily to center the plate (because of the .010" clearance) before he bolted it down with the shoulder bolts.
Eric, you should call up Vince at Skidim and find out why he is recommending not using any spacers. I'm with you. I don't like the idea of flexing that plate down against the flywheel. Even with the spacers, the bolts have plenty of strength to handle the torque of even the largest engines. The only negative is loosing some of the bolts shoulder engagement. |
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eric lavine
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Posted: June-04-2008 at 3:12pm |
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I talked to someone in regards to it and got the......pull it in, it will be fine, end of that conversation
thats all right, the friendly (American) aftermarket will soon be producing them....the right way |
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slalomdude wrote: