floor pics

Can you guys send me pisc of your floors(from the back of the engine to the stern).I have seen pics where the floor sides are seperate from the plywood in the middle? You can see the lines in between? It would not be hard to glass them in but I am thinking that they are supposed to be there so you can remove the ply to access the driveshaft?? Any help is greatly appreciated!Thanks

Looks great! I have a 74 southwind. my sides appeard to be foam in the square cavaties with 2 strips of 2" wood put on the top of the foam and glassed over.The only actual plywood is the small square directly behind the motor? I assume that this plywood should be removable to access the packing gland? But there lies another problem, How to fasten it down without screws??

Kevin - I don't know about a Southwind, but on my SN the center rear floor panel is not fastened down - it just lays there. It hasn't flown out yet LOL.

So does it kind of slide under your back seat? That would make sense because my battery box is back there.I thought that it was in the wrong place because my uncles 1975 mustang the batt is up front between the seats. But if this ply is not fastened down then the batt box is probably in the right place. Great there is one thing that i will not have to mess with! Thanks

What is bcx ply?? Is it marine ply?? Also I do not see any foam in your pics?? Did your boat not have it? Maybe you know but I am thinking that life would be a lot easier if after I pour in the foam I plywood over that and glass that in. The original was foam with 2 2" strips of wood in the top and glassed over.No plywood on the sides?I think that If I plywood the sides it will be much easier and straighter.Any suggestions on that or the foam?

Kevin,
give me a call... cell 815.631.3001
Steve

Kevin,

I have a boat that wasn't foamed and have had no issues with it. Some extra was sprayed under both decks and the gunnels as a flotation extra.

Do call Steve and he'll fill you in on the plywood types and grade. (marine not needed) I would like to add to his comment on coating the ply. CPES that's clear penetrating epoxy sealer is my choice. It's really great stuff. Jamestown distributing carries it. Also, stick with epoxy for any resin work on the boat.

The inside hull sides probably were upholstered tempered hardboard - correct?? To get anything straighter, you will be adding weight. If you are trying to do a original restoration on them, I would go with the hardboard again but give it a coat of the CPES. The old I'm sure is buckled from water moisture but sealing the new will prevent it from happening again.

Kevin,
The CPES is definately better/easier to work with than fg resin. I dont have any stores nearby that handle the CPES,plus I already had the resin on hand so thats what I used. It will still probably last longer than the original floor.

when it was decided by the USCG to foam the decision was only to foam boats under 20 feet, so Correct Craft used it to the advantage and said hey...we gotta foam these boats so lets build our floors on top of this foam, it has to be there.... we dont like it but its required, we'll redesign the floors and try to use the foam to our advantage.
IMO, foam sucks it has no use, it rots boats or traps water (if you want to use the angle that the new foams dont absorb water, instead now it traps water}
if you redesign the floors and add more struts and make the compartments water tight as possible the boat wont sink in 30 seconds. I have yet to see the advantage of re-foaming a boat. If you are in the predicament of sinking one of these boats, you probably deserve it

eric lavine wrote: Pete, What happens to all that trapped water in the winter time? does it expand and possibly oil can the hull?

Absolutely! As a example, the boat I had for the kids for the day to day use was a Rinker 170 I/O. It has the rear seat bases glassed into a box and filled with foam. One winter it froze and was so saturated with water that it popped the seam where the box was glassed to the hull!

My feeling is to not try to make the compartments water tight without the foam but rather provide drains to the center bilge. Then as mentioned, add foam under the decks.

you better not be able to hear something over that BB,
Pete, I completely agree with the drain holes but to make the rest of the compartment water tight, if you stuff the boat the water wont go into the drains because of the air pocket and if you flip her the hull will be a giant air pocket, my statement was in regards to this fashion