Hard Steering to Starboard

Reference section is always a good place to start . . . .

The photo is great and helps me undertstand the grinding idea. I guess that rudder is pretty salty in price.

Here is an informative article regarding rudder torque from Waterski Magazine

Rudder Torque Article

I did a few internet searches and it appears that if you want the boat to pull right, you take a bit off the right trailing edge of the rudder. If you want it to pull more left, you take a bit off the left trailing edge. All sources suggest that you take off only a bit, as 79 suggests, and test. A little shaving goes a long way.

Pete, I could understand why the front edge would work as well. But again, all the ski boat sources I've checked suggest the trailing edge.

FWIW Dan, Correct offered a tunable rudder by 2001 when I bought my boat. adjust two screws, and voila, neutral stearing. Your boat can be retrofit with the tunable rudder, but I don't know that it would be worth the money to do so.

BKH

Brian, Thank you. I will leave the rudder alone for now. I need to pull my trans to inspect due to water intrusion. I have ordered a service manual from Skidim. No prob with trans slipping but due to pink trans fluid, I need to inspect the inside. I have a manly boat and it does not like the color "Pink".

I hate to seem dumb, but which edge is the trailing edge? So if i turn to the right would the trailing edge be the port side of the rudder? Do you grind an even edge from top to bottom? Clueless again

Pete, I believe Tim is Correct, it is the trailing edge that is typically ground. I would do a few searches and make sure before I took a grinder to the rudder. I know you don't have to take off much to make a difference in handling. BKH

well how you load the boat and where guest sit can effect it some as well so it depends how strong of a pull is it? you want a little as in if you let go of the wheel it should go one direction or the other by it's self. But you shouldn't have to have popeye arms either.

You guys are incredible. It does not pull to the right. The reason I said that I would not grind is because that scares me. I can fix a lot of stuff but I cannot put back grinded metal. I need to cowboy up. It would be nice to steer the same both left and right. Make me a brave man.

I would take a look at the tracking fins and see if they are out of alignment or one is bent and you are fighting it all of the time.

No vibration going down the lake. I do want to check the alignment but not sure what alignment and how to check.
I will not be grinding the rudder. I will deal with the prop torque. Thank you all. This is like having a team of mechanics.

Dan, Since you say that the steering is the same when not moving then what you are feeling is prop torque. If it really bothers you, then you may want to look into tuning your rudder. I'm not a expert on it but the funny thing is I was just talking to a friend about it this afternoon. It involves ether grinding the leading edge or putting a slight bend on the trailing edge of the rudder. You may also what to tighten up the stuffing box on the rudder port. This will increase the force needed to turn the helm in ether direction but also it may not feel like the boats going to abruptly turn to port if you let go of the helm.

Dan, Did the hard steering just start or has it always been this way? If it just started, then it may be time for a new steering cable and if not, then it is just normal due to the prop torque.