My First Boat

Ryan, To drain the oil there should be a hose from the bottom of the motor which should be hanging from the upper part of the motor by a hook. Lower this hose through the drain hole than remove bolt to drain oil under the boat. You should be able to download a manual from this site under the reference link on this site.
http://www.correctcraftfan.com/reference/

mr_beat wrote: it was winterized by the previous owner but not covered in an attempt to prevent moisture from getting too bad under the cover.

This is not good, I'm thinking wet foam and stringers.

mr_beat wrote: I have been reading but very confused as to where and how to drain.

You may or may not have an orange tube to drain your oil. Hopefully it's there, start looking at the oil pan where the drain plug would be. Don't bother using the drain hose unless the oil is hot.

mr_beat wrote: Do we replace velvet drive oil with dextron III only? Do you know how much?

Yes, replace however much you took out.

mr_beat wrote: Can we warm up engine with fake a lake and start feeding in antifreeze into strainer until it is fully coming out exhaust?

Stick the hose off the strainer into a bucket full of antifreeze if you want to suck it up. I recommend draining all the water first then just pouring it in the t-stat housing. You run the risk of diluting and/or pumping your A/F right out the exhaust. Make sure you are using propylene glycol which is safe(r) for the environment. Look for "Sierra" brand or stuff that is for RVs. You typically do not have to dilute/mix this type of A/F.

jb_dallas wrote: For winterizing, I wrapped duct tape around some large diameter PVC pipe until the PVC fit snug in the tailpipes. The PVC pipes have a 90 degree fitting on them which feed into a 5 gallon bucket. I run some long hose (cheap from Home Depot) from the strainer to the 5 gallon bucket. I start with the bucket almost full (4 gal mixed) and run a loop. I can run it as long as I want. I have done this for 3 seasons and it works great. JB

JB - That sounds pretty cool. I've never heard of anyone doing that. How about a picture? If you don't have any, then maybe you will in a month or so.

Hollywood wrote: mr_beat wrote: it was winterized by the previous owner but not covered in an attempt to prevent moisture from getting too bad under the cover. This is not good, I'm thinking wet foam and stringers. mr_beat wrote: Can we warm up engine with fake a lake and start feeding in antifreeze into strainer until it is fully coming out exhaust? Stick the hose off the strainer into a bucket full of antifreeze if you want to suck it up. I recommend draining all the water first then just pouring it in the t-stat housing. You run the risk of diluting and/or pumping your A/F right out the exhaust. Make sure you are using propylene glycol which is safe(r) for the environment. Look for "Sierra" brand or stuff that is for RVs. You typically do not have to dilute/mix this type of A/F.

I agree with Kev's concern on wet foam and stringers even if it was covered. Pulling the boat across a scale to check the weight against the specs may be a good idea.

I also agree with draining and pouring in antifreeze through one of the upper hoses to the T stat. I really don't know where and when this "suck the antifreeze from a bucket" procedure started but it's more complicated, wastes antifreeze and dilutes with water still in the block. Just drain and fill. 90 degree elbows on the pipes into buckets to recirculate?? Come on guys, this isn't a AAmco "power purge" trans procedure.

mr_beat, Where in PA are you located? Which river are you riding on?

An Update:

We got to take the boat out this Sunday but we ran into a small snag after running out of gas when doing the oil change. We got it to the river and it took a bit to get it started then. After that, we got it running and on the way out the channel to the river hit something shallow and came to a very abrupt stop. Fortunately no damage to the boat just a small scrape on the fist tracking fin underneath. We smoothed it out. But we immediately pulled it out after that and put it back in, and our battery was basically shot. The previous owner has a small car battery in there because he said the marine battery he bought would not fit. It is an 85. What are you recommendations on battery?

PS We were lucky and had the hose attached for easy oil change.

mr_beat wrote: An Update: We got to take the boat out this Sunday but we ran into a small snag after running out of gas when doing the oil change. We got it to the river and it took a bit to get it started then. After that, we got it running and on the way out the channel to the river hit something shallow and came to a very abrupt stop. Fortunately no damage to the boat just a small scrape on the fist tracking fin underneath. We smoothed it out. But we immediately pulled it out after that and put it back in, and our battery was basically shot. The previous owner has a small car battery in there because he said the marine battery he bought would not fit. It is an 85. What are you recommendations on battery? PS We were lucky and had the hose attached for easy oil change.

It could very well be your battery but I would check your alternator belt tension, alt. output and charge and load test the battery before I bought another one. The reason is that if it started the boat after sitting out of the water it certainly should start it after the boat has been running- that is if your charging system, starter and tuning are within spec. Your symptoms make me suspect a no charge situation or maybe a loose distributor.

I dont have any pictures of the actual procedure, although it is easy to visualize. I remove the c clamp on the strainer, connect the long hose, fill a bucket with antifreeze, stick the PVC in the tailpipes and start the engine. Start to finish, it takes me 5 to 10 minutes. What is complicated about that? I pour unused antifreeze back in the container, nothing is wasted. It seems to me that there is more waste with other winterizing methods.

Thanks for the tip on the skylon pole I will try to find a new front assembly for it. There was a nice one for cheap floating around on craigslist here.

jb_dallas wrote: I dont have any pictures of the actual procedure, although it is easy to visualize. I remove the c clamp on the strainer, connect the long hose, fill a bucket with antifreeze, stick the PVC in the tailpipes and start the engine. Start to finish, it takes me 5 to 10 minutes. What is complicated about that? I pour unused antifreeze back in the container, nothing is wasted. It seems to me that there is more waste with other winterizing methods.

nothing's wrong with the method other than the concentration that the anti-freeze needs to be at to not freeze is thrown out the window when you add a gallon plus of fresh water into your 50/50 mix and the time frame doesn't allow for effectively mixing in the block since you are basicly bypassing it most of the time through the exhaust leaving the block even more diluted. Just don't cry when a long extreme uncommonly cold winter hits from no were and cracks the block you can only be lucky for so long before it bites you in the ass.

79nautique wrote: jb_dallas wrote: I dont have any pictures of the actual procedure, although it is easy to visualize. I remove the c clamp on the strainer, connect the long hose, fill a bucket with antifreeze, stick the PVC in the tailpipes and start the engine. Start to finish, it takes me 5 to 10 minutes. What is complicated about that? I pour unused antifreeze back in the container, nothing is wasted. It seems to me that there is more waste with other winterizing methods. nothing's wrong with the method other than the concentration that the anti-freeze needs to be at to not freeze is thrown out the window when you add a gallon plus of fresh water into your 50/50 mix and the time frame doesn't allow for effectively mixing in the block since you are basicly bypassing it most of the time through the exhaust leaving the block even more diluted. Just don't cry when a long extreme uncommonly cold winter hits from no were and cracks the block you can only be lucky for so long before it bites you in the ass.

Jb, Hopefully your screen name is a indicator of the area that you live so you really don't see the deep cold temps of the north. I just want to warn you (in different terms than Chris has/normally uses!!!) that your method is flawed. Chris's concern as well as mine is without draining the existing water, there is no way to maintain a even mix ratio throughout the block due to the dilution. If you are using RV, it's meant to be used straight and can't be diluted. Are you trying to get antifreeze in the exhaust pipes for some reason? If so, that's waste!

Chris is spot on regarding sucking the antifreeze in by running the engine. There's no guarantee that the T stat will be open and the circulation pump will push the antifreeze around enough to mix it and get it into all of the water jacket cavities.

Drain the block and pour a known mix in via the front hose to the T stat housing. The solution will back flow through the circ pump into the engine.

When I mentioned getting complicated, I was referring to the hose and tubing you bought and made up to attach to your exhaust. For what - collect antifreeze that you shouldn't be blowing out the back end anyway!

FYI,
If you use regular antifreeze, it can be tested for freeze protection with a hydrometer but beware it is temperature sensitive - use a temp compensating meter.
If you use RV, testing must be done with a refractometer. Specific gravity (hydrometer) won't work!

Also, there are many who drain only! Done for years! I drained only 20 years ago, then just to be safe, started using the antifreeze as a safety.

How much antifreeze do you use? I'll bet it's more than the 3/4 gal. I use! Waste??

Good lay up instructions are in this Manual page 37. It shows where the plugs are and what hose to pop off & fill.

lonestar wrote: 8122, could you describe for me where to find the front hose to the t stat ? what that would look like etc,on an 88 cc 2001. thanks

This is a winterizing thread by Tim (TRBenj) He has got great pictures. Better than the manual and better than me going through the whole process!!
winterizing

There's also some guidance on the hose used as a fill point.
Tim stated:
"The most foolproof way to add the antifreeze is to do it per the PCM engine manual. That involves pouring it in the upper hose that attaches to the RWP (end of hose raised above engine level). You know youve put enough in when you hear it start to drain out of the riser into the exhaust, it takes about 3 gallons if I remember correctly. If you were to draw the A/F up without draining the block, I would be nervous that it wouldn't be circulated through the block enough (too diluted) depending on whether the thermostat is open or closed."

jb_dallas wrote: I am running the engine long enough to get to normal operating temperature, so there is no doubt that the t-stat is open. The antifreeze is reaching any part of the engine it would during normal operation. I think people in general have a hard time accepting any new practice when they have done it the same way sucessfully for years, and that is understandable. There is no flaw in my system, however, I can understand the point about my location. I dont see negative temps here in Texas. Maybe if I lived up north, I would winterize by the book.

new method verse stupid method must have been an I/O owner before to come up with that idea. Also IF YOU WERE FURTHER NORTH YOU WOULD HAVE REPLACED THE BLOCK ALL READY AS IT WOULD HAVE CRACKED OVER THE WINTER WITH THIS WEAK METHOD OF WINTERIZING.

sad thing about it since you are in Texas all you need to do is drain the block and call it a day.

We have temps in the teens, so I am playing it safe by administering antifreeze. The fact is that it works for my location..has for 3 years..and will for another 20.