Alignment...but now Thud, Thud

Looks like the bolt head is broken off. If it was me I would cut the clamp with a parting wheel. But maybe you can just pry it apart at the screw joint.

PS -In case this is unfamiliar to others, a parting wheel is an abrasive disc that cuts by the edge. Usually used with a air powered die grinder. Die grinders are not very expensive & I use mine quite often.

Court,
Yes, it's time for new hose clamps. Chris's idea of cutting them off is really the easy way. Even a little Dremel tool with the little friction blade (parting tool) will work.

From the picture, it does look like the shaft through the cutlass is angled up towards the bow. Your're getting the front of the shaft free to check is a step in the correct direction.

The "thud" - What's the fit like on the shaft coupling? How bad was the engine/shaft alignment? Looks to me like you may have a case of fretting. This is wear in the bore of the coupling caused by movement of the shaft inside the coupling. Misalignment is the cause. Did you put the stainless bolt in the coupling? looks like someone is trying to keep the shaft coupling tight after it loosened up or lost a set screw. The shaft to coupling needs to be a interference fit. (.000" to -.001")

Getting back to the Dremel, it's really the "homeowners" version of a die grinder. I never though very much of them as being a decent tool to have in the shop. Got one and found it to be very handy especially in tight spaces. Our tool makers here at the plant even have them!!

Court,
I feel Eric's on to the "thud"!!!

Do check the coupling fit too.

I may not be the shapest tool in the shed , but does the strut look to be a bit "tweeked"?
It would be real hard to get a proper fit at the coupling with the components now being used.
Before we go talking dampners or tranny problems should we not addess the strut issue first?

Been on a mission,trying to rat hole dollars before the season ends.
Have been on the site lurking, but nothing that needs my opinion nor the little knowledge I possess..Boat dr

eric lavine wrote: Now that you took the load off of your prop shaft, the damper too has less load and this may be the noise you are hearing, a matter of fact I would bet on it

So this means what? Why is the damper making noise and what is the fix?

^^^ I think that's what's up with Johnny's BFN. It is in storage now anyways. We can talk about it on Monday.

How long you gonna be in Cleveland HW?

john

Okay, what I've taken away from this so far is:
1. I'm on the right track and need to go buy a dremel so I can get these hose clamps off and check on centering of the shaft. Is a Craftsman dremel a good one? (Sears is nearby)

2. The misalignment was very big before I moved the engine mounts. I didn't do anything with the set screws- the stainless steel was previous to me. I'll check on clearance of the shaft in the coupling and report back...

3. I'm too ignorant on transmission removal and damper plates. Is this a functional problem or just a 'sounds bad' problem? Can 1 man in his driveway with no lift remove a transmission or do I need to buy more tools/call reinforcements?

As always, thanks for the input so far.

A well placed shot with a cold chisel will take care of those clamps for less $.

Your profile doesn't say much about you, but don't worry; the tranny removal isn't that difficult. Are you handy or all thumbs?


As Pete said, there are a number of good threads on this.

BJ, the well is still at a level that will maintain all the BS that ya'll can sip or slurp.
Been real busy here of late.Trying to prepare for those long winter nights and the slack that comes at the shop as a result.
Having thoughts of putting the boat up for the year, but that will be after Jan.The winter here is So Brutal.....
Have tried several times to call but only got a MACHINE, I DO NOT TALK TO THEM....................Billy
Harvesting Honey now too, to many things to do in the South......Billy/Karen

Gary , the cold is here already......Highs today require me to wear jeans and long sleeves. I hope it warms up this week as I am not acclimated to this brutal winter temps.
BTW the highs here today were 65, back into the 80's by Thursday. I just love the Fall and the cool 80 degree temps that come with her...........Eat your heart out Snow Birds

Court,
Considering the real bad engine alignment you found and now the strut problem, you probably have some rot issues with the stringers. Have we reviewed with you checking them? Have you done any checking on their condition?

You may be able to get more use out of the boat but not knowing the condition of the stringers it's hard to say how long. (no Guarantees) You however need to get the strut aligned for now. The strut isn't glued on but if it has ever been removed by a PO, it may be bedded to the hull with a adhesive sealant. Try gently tapping a wood chisel in under a corner. Get some heat on the strut with ether a propane torch or preferably a hot air gun. See if it will start to pull off with the heat. If no luck, it will need to be hot wire cut off. This is a couple feet nichrome or stainless (.030 MIG wire works well) wire strung between two wood handles and then using jumper cables connected to a car battery. The hot wire is pulled back and forth between the base of the strut and the hull "cutting" the adhesive sealant.

Dry fit the strut back on the boat with some stainless flat washers between it and the hull on the aft mounting bolts. This will bring the forward end of the shaft up. Rebed the strut with the washes and use 3M 5200 as a adhesive sealant. You should be putting in a new cutlass bearing before you remount the strut. You'll need it for aligning the strut to the shaft log.

BTW, I don't feel this is your "thud" problem. I think the guys a correct that you really need to check the damper plate out.

This lean must be a major part of my alignment difficulty...


Any idea if this can be fixed and where to bring it if so?

Court,
Call up some of the prop repair shops in your area. They are experts with the bronze and most will straighten struts. It's really not that hard. A press, some heat and knowing how to set it up. They however can break if you're not real carefull.

What did you end up doing to get the strut off?