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swim platform maintenance |
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kapla 
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Joined: March-27-2008 Location: BA, Argentina Status: Offline Points: 6148 |
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 Topic: swim platform maintenancePosted: December-04-2008 at 6:23pm |
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How often do you do some service to your teak platform, and what materials you use to service it?
I have mine sanded to smooth the surface and the holes produced by wakeboard fins and then oiled with teak oil. This is every 6 month. After the service it looks like new. I don't like when the teak starts to take that white to gray colour. 
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<a href="">1992 ski nautique
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TRBenj
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Posted: December-04-2008 at 6:42pm |
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Historically Ive refinished mine every winter- which usually consisted of a good scrubbing with teak cleaner/brightener (using a brass brush), and several coats of a teak/ATF/linseed oil mix. I wont be doing that this off season though- the process I used last winter held up very nicely. Only a few touch up coats necessary- much easier.
I followed this procedure that was created by a MC owner. Best looking platform Ive ever produced- it looked wet and glossy even when it was dry. I wish I had a pic! |
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86BFN
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Posted: December-04-2008 at 7:50pm |
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Wow thanks Tim, I'm going to try this. I've done mine with the starbrite 3 step kit for years. but I always have to do it twice a year to keep it looking good. I never knew they made a sealer.
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Riley
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Posted: December-04-2008 at 8:02pm |
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That Starbrite sealer sounds like "Teak Guard". It's completely different than oil.
Tim, David and I were talking about your platform at Lake George, how it looked so good, but it seemed smoother and a little different than an oiled platform. No I know. Your platform looks much better than the one I did in Teak Guard. |
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k.o.
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Posted: December-05-2008 at 12:16am |
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glad i don't have to worry about teak
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kapla
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Joined: March-27-2008 Location: BA, Argentina Status: Offline Points: 6148 |
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Posted: December-05-2008 at 12:27am |
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nice tutorial tim, will follow it next time!!!
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<a href="">1992 ski nautique
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TRBenj
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Posted: December-05-2008 at 1:18pm |
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Bruce, thanks! I should have been more specific, though- I did vary a little from Harold's process. On the first coat after cleaning, I used my teak oil (50%)/ATF (25%)/boiled linseed oil (25%) concoction. I did this mainly to try and darken the wood, but Im not sure it had much effect. After each round of wetsanding, I just used regular teak oil. I think I went up to 1000 or 1200 grit- I was really happy with the results. The platform actually beads water.
I just used the regular Starbrite stuff. 
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SkiBum
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Posted: December-05-2008 at 1:26pm |
Harold is a teak fanatic. His process is something you might do once a year. I ski almost every day of the week. I wipe down the boat and teak after I pull it out of the water. I rub in some teak oil gold after I put the boat in the garage. Keeps the teak looking great and protects the teak. Save your money for gas, new ski ropes, and whatever. I keep my teak oil soaked cloth in a plastic bucket with a cover. A bottle of teak oil gold lasts about 30 trips to the pond. |
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TRBenj
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Posted: December-05-2008 at 1:56pm |
Bill, Im not following- was there something about Harold's process that you interpreted as expensive? Its just a $10 bottle of teak oil and quite a bit of labor. As I see it, the main benefit (besides a great looking platform) is the longetivity... I did it last winter and dont need to repeat the process this year- just a few touch ups. My experience has been that it takes nearly a full week for the teak oil to completely dry- I hate coming into contact with an oily platform! I only touched up once this past season- right before LG, of course. |
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SkiBum
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Posted: December-05-2008 at 4:04pm |
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Maybe I am out in left field on this one, too? Finding myself there frequently in recent days. This is from the link:
Cost estimate: o Sandpaper - $25-35 o Sealer - $15-25 (depending on size container you purchase) o Misc supplies (i.e. brushes) - $15-20 o Time – 15-18 hours o TOTAL: $55-80 plus 15 to 18 hours of time I think 55 bucks (and 15 hours) on a swim platform is a once a year deal. We ski almost every day of the week. I provide the tug every other day. I rub teak oil onto the platform after each use. Whether it every totally dries or not, I dunno? But nobody complains about an oily platform. They do comment on how good it looks though. I am not belittling Harold's procedure. I am just saying that you can keep the teak looking great all season long for the cost of a bottle of teak oil gold a month. |
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TRBenj
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Posted: December-05-2008 at 4:12pm |
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Bill, I can assure you that this procedure is not required once a year- it looks like I should easily get 2-3 (if not more) out of mine. That means Ill get several years out of one quart ($15) bottle of the Starbrite oil.
I didnt take into consideration the cost of the other supplies as I had them on hand already, but the estimates still seem high. A single brush from the dollar store works just fine. I guess we'll have to agree to disagree! |
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kapla
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Posted: December-05-2008 at 9:54pm |
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I know pictures are always welcome so here are some after teak oil was applied
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<a href="">1992 ski nautique
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75 Tique
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Posted: December-06-2008 at 1:30pm |
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OK, so what am I doing wrong? The first time I redid my platform I sanded it down real good. (that was before the posts came up about not sanding) It looked great after a few coats of teak oil, but within just a few outings started to fade again. This past summer I redid it. Instead of sanding, I scrubbed it with a brush like Tim is suggesting. It looked great, I oiled it with several coats and it looked great, but one or two outings and it started showing patches of grey. I didn't use a cleaner, is that my problem? The wood looked great just after brushing it down so I assumed it was pretty clean. Any suggestions?
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Barracuda
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Posted: December-08-2008 at 7:41pm |
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Tim, your platform looks fantastic!
Longevity of your teak finish will depend on how you store your boat. Keeping the platform out of the water and covered will certainly help preserve the finish. Two part cleaner/ brightner and then a couple coats of teak oil gets me through 1/2 the season (nearly daily use, NOT COVERED). Just reapply when it starts to look thin. Once a year. *I reapplied just before LG last summer and it didn't dry in time- sorry for the sticky feet guys
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TRBenj
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Posted: December-09-2008 at 12:58pm |
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Thanks Brad. Agreed on how the boat is stored and used- that will definitely affect how long the finish lasts. My platform did sit out in the sun for the first half of last summer though- before I added the snaps to the rear skirt, it didnt spend much time covering the transom. We do rarely ski off the boat though- we usually go right off the dock.
Larry, I suspect you didnt get the platform clean enough before re-oiling. Im always amazed at the amount of junk that comes off of the platform when I use the teak cleaner and a good brass brush. |
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8122pbrainard
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Posted: December-09-2008 at 2:46pm |
Larry, I agree with Tim. If the cleaner/brightener step isn't done then the mold and mildew down deep in the wood will come back quickly. Actually the mold and mildew will feed on organic teak oils. |
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75 Tique
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Posted: December-09-2008 at 4:02pm |
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I'll get some cleaner next time I do it. Like Tim said, I was amazed at all the gray goo that comes off. I always thought that was faded/discolored wood. Until I cleaned it, I didnt realize it was washable goo. Since its bio-goo, I used clorox, must be more to the cleaners than that.
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_____________
“So, how was your weekend?†“Well, let me see…sun burn, stiff neck, screwed up back, assorted aches and pains….yup, my weekend was great, thanks for asking.†|
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Barracuda
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Posted: December-09-2008 at 6:55pm |
Hydrochloric and or Oxalic acids most likely. |
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eric lavine
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Posted: December-10-2008 at 9:39am |
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A pressure washer seems to work very well, unless im doing something wrong
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"the things you own will start to own you"
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cmuggleston
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Joined: January-02-2009 Location: United States Status: Offline Points: 9 |
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Posted: January-02-2009 at 8:17pm |
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I've been reading all about cleaning my teak swim platform. I bought teak cleaner / brightner as well as teak oil. What kind of brush is recommended to clean with?
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Muggs
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86BFN
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Posted: January-02-2009 at 9:32pm |
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I've have good luck with a brass wire brush and also stiff nylon. You will be amazed. I've also used a pressure washer as Eric stated. Only problem with that is that it erodes away the soft grain of the wood but not the hard stuff. Then you'll end up sanding it to get it flat again.
Good Luck, Steve |
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cmuggleston
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Posted: January-02-2009 at 10:11pm |
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Cool. Thank you! I'll post some pics once done.
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Muggs
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cmuggleston
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Posted: January-03-2009 at 8:53pm |
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All done cleaning...looks great! How long do I need to let it dry?
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Muggs
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86BFN
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Posted: January-03-2009 at 10:30pm |
I usually let mine dry overnight, then lay the teak oil to it.  I always put several coats on, until it quites soaking it in.
Don't forget the pictures! we love pictures
Steve |
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cmuggleston
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Posted: January-04-2009 at 12:32pm |
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Muggs
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cmuggleston
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Posted: January-04-2009 at 12:32pm |
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Muggs
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cmuggleston
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Posted: January-04-2009 at 12:38pm |
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Muggs
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86BFN
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Posted: January-04-2009 at 1:12pm |
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Chris, Looks like it came out very nice.
What kind of brush did you end up using?
FYI: if you make you pictures a little smaller, I will make the thread much easier to read. Steve |
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cmuggleston
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Posted: January-04-2009 at 1:28pm |
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I used a copper scrub pad. It took 3 of them to do get all the grim out...but they were only 1 dollar at the dollar store.. Im getting ready to lay down the teak oil, then i'll upload new pics..smaller this time..lol
Thanks again for all the advise...so far, so good.. Muggsy- |
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Muggs
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cmuggleston
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Posted: January-06-2009 at 11:51pm |
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Anyone know how long I need to let the teak oil dry. I finished the last coat Sunday...and it is still not dry.
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Muggs
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TRBenj wrote: