strut aligment

I think I'm able to set my engine to shaft aligment, as for all the info gathered in this site has been of lot of help. But I have some doubts of the procedures on how to set the strut to shaft aligment as i see on all post this is were the complete drive line aligment should start. Is there a tutorial similar to eric's but focus on the strut? i mena with steps and photos? If so please let me know.

Kapla - What's with the extra nut under the prop? Your shaft is too long? We need Pete to figure this one out!

As far as the strut alignment, I just unhooked the shaft from the transmission & then used 'feel' to judge the circle of play in the shaft (at the transmission end). You want the center of this play to approximately be in the center of the 'log'. I just looked at the left, right, up down positions of the loose shaft (as compared to the log) & tried to make them all even by changing the strut mounting.

This is really hard to explain, hope I am getting this across to you.

Kapla,
Chris (SNobsessed) Is right on with the verbal description of the checking strut alignment. Get the coupling disconnected for your engine/shaft alignment, give the shaft a twist while holding the front end up to the center of the log and report back to us about how it "feels".

Regarding the extra nut, First I'd like to say get the extra stainless nut off as soon as possible. Stainless to stainless threads have the tendency of galling (locking up). The longer it's on there the higher the chances of it happening. I've been there!! You don't want to have to replace a shaft if not needed!

The shaft and prop tapers are just out to the min. and max. tolerance allowing the prop to seat farther forward. If the bore was a 1&1/8, the prop would be half way up the taper and hitting the strut. The 1442 is a 1" bore.

Get some brass flat washers or a brass nut on the shaft to take up the extra room. I have had to re drill hole for the cotter pin too.

Chris how do you change the strut mounting? by loosing and moving it back and forward to align it with the shaft? or you need to shim it if required?

Kapla - The strut has to be pulled completely off (because it is sealed on) cleaned up, then you can move it around within the hole clearances (I had to enlarge 1 hole) or in order to tip it you can add shims under the front or back, whichever is needed. It is best to get this all figured out as a dry fit, then take it back apart & use the 3M 5200 sealant to remount it.

If it is close to centered at all, I would just leave it alone. This is a PITA to do. The critical alignment is shaft to transmission, which sounds like you have a good handle on.