water behind a stringer

This weekend I got the new battery box figured out, built, and installed.



I will be drilling a hole in the side of the tube to run the battery cables to the engine.




I also installed my coupler, the fuel tank supports, and the back half of the exhaust.



The pylon will now sit straight but is not mounted yet. I enlarged my bilge output hole as the new thru hull I got is a bit bigger than the one that was in there. I made and drilled out backing plates for the trans mounts. The plates and trunions are going in to be powder coated tomorrow. I will be getting my plywood this week and get that fit and epoxied.
My list is getting shorter and shorter. i am hoping to be done by the first week of Feb so I can go on vaca and not come back to it.

Mike

one more thing worth noting that most dont know, PVC for the cables so they dont short, which you are aware of I see

OK, so I am not paranoid after all.

I had attempted to have the secondaries slightly higher so it would drain to the bilge. I am level, not raised after fixing them in. How would you give the lift on the outboard part of the floor at this point? I did not know about the electrical part of the PVC. I really just did it for ease of running stuff through there.
Zman was over today for a progress check, and plans to announce to my wife that I should install a heater in there for her. Whilst not original, nor period correct, I think it is a really good idea. If for no other reason, it would be at least as convincing as a bottle of wine for those midnight "rides" in the Ponyboat.

Which Guitar Hero ? I have #1 in my shop for when I need a break from the eopxy and whatnot. I do find that my game goes downhill as my beer count goes up. I love that game!

M

What's that white stuff running along where the outers meets the floor? I epoxied mine in, then put matting down along the seam, but it's not as smooth as yours.

How far back are you going to run the floor. I have a 2"x"2 that supports the rear seat and ran mine back to that like original, but am now wondering if I should have ran it back further.

thats funny with the guitar hero, after 4 or 5 beers yesterday i tried it.....forget it,I was almost to the second level BB, (before beers)
the cops should carry one to test for DUI's

Great job. Keep posting photos. They're a great guide to the rest of us.

The fiberglass work in your boat looks neater and more refined than in mine. Must be an indication of Correct Craft's improvement working with glass during those years.

Pool noodles on order !

Mike,
You do realize that dashes weren't painted in 68! Looks like someone did it when they put the newer style windshield on your boat. The black dashes of the late 70's were actually gel coated. Are you sure you want to paint? You could just see what's under the black paint first!

If you really want to paint, the easiest compromise between ease of application and durability and still staying with a single component paint is Pettit Easypoxy. The standard paint will be a high gloss. If you want it to be a semi gloss of flat, you will need their de-glossing additive. The "roll and tip" method can be used with fair results if you don't want to spray it - the flatter the gloss, the better the method will look.

Last night and tonight I managed to get my floor template cut out.





I also finally rotated my RWP. This was a pointed out to me when I first posted about the boat back last March.



I got my plywood for the floor today and hope to get started at some point this weekend. I am picking up my trans mounts and a couple stainless pieces I am missing and hope to get the motor dry fit tomorrow night or Saturday.

I still have to decide if I am going to address my dash. My goal this winter is pretty much just structural, but now a couple things like that bug me and may still tackle them.

Nice work. Looks like your front and rear sections are one piece. Are you going to do the wood like that?

I plan to measure 5x.

Riley, Yes. This is my third plan for the floor and I think I like it the best. I had considered a removeable center in the back, but anything I need to get at, I can reach from the engine hatch, or put in a deck plate.

keep in mind, the battery needs to vent in to the bildge, it gives off gases when running..if you didnt know....

WakeSlayer wrote: This is my third plan for the floor and I think I like it the best. I had considered a removeable center in the back, but anything I need to get at, I can reach from the engine hatch, or put in a deck plate.

Mike, have you ever adjusted or replaced the packing through an access plate? Its an impossible task. I highly recommend making the rear section of the floor removable.

Now I am re-thinking a little. I do see the point and I will give it one last look. I still feel I can easily access the packing, and the cable block without a whole lot of effort. Now would be the time, but I am not convinced.

Or make it 2 piece wood, but carpet over the whole thing. That case in an emergency or scenario where you may, one day, need to get down there, cut the carpet and pull up that section.