Trailer Parts Sources

Thanks Greg
Good post been looking for parts,you guys are way ahead of us in the UK.

Greg,
Lots of trailer parts stores on line! I've had very good luck with this one: etrailer.com

BuffaloBFN wrote: Is anyone familiar with this outfit?     Eastern Marine

Greg,

I used them for parts on my Skier trailer & ordered the bearings for my BFN trailer from them. Pretty good service so far!

Greg, I used Eastern for parts for my #2.Had parts unique to the #2 that I could not find anywhere.I even bought tires from them and they are fine,but sometimes if I think about it too much they bother me - They have no markings as to where they come from.Shipping was fast also,they seemed to have everything I needed in stock.

Greg, if you have any doubt about the races just knock them out with a drift and tap in the new ones, make sure they're seated all the way to the shoulder.   If there's any pitting replace them otherwise most people don't bother.

I also recommend driving the trailer for a few miles before taking the trip to FL and checking tp make sure you've got the spindle nut snugged up enough. I always seem to get another 1/4 turn or so after doing this even with preloading them. Jack the trailer off the ground and try to wiggle the wheel, if any slop I tighten up a bit.

BuffaloBFN wrote: I don't have a drift but used something similar I think. What's the proper tool to put them back with w/o buying a $100 kit?

Don't know about the proper "tool" but a nice block of hardwood will do. I have a favorite stick of beefwood that I use for lots of things in the garage.

BuffaloBFN wrote: LOLOL Alan...thought you were yanking my chain on beefwood! Beefwood=bloodwood? (still laughing) Got it covered!

That's the stuff, thinks it's also called ironwood. It's harder than steel, I have a 2x2x12" piece that i've had in my tool box for a decade.

you should actually take it and have the races installed properly, piece of wood isn't going to get it, IMO, most parts stores have the tools on hand and you can rent it or borrow it on the spot. You need to make sure the the race is seated properly in the hub, both of them on each hub. It's a simple tool that is cut to match up with the od and taper of the race so that it is driven in squarely otherwise you have major issue down the road. bearings are not something to take litely and when install wrong fail quickly and usually take other parts out with them when it fails.

Per Joel's bearing write up on PN I also use an old race with a block of wood on top of that to drive the new one in. Seems to work and Alan even trusted one of them down to Alabama to get that Hurricane.

The hardest part is getting them started. If you can do that, then keep tapping evenly around in a circle - they will go in straight. They are pretty hard steel & you aren't going to distort them.

I have found the best tool to seat the race, is what we all have in our tool boxes. Look for the proper size socket that will fit just inside. You can start with using your old race to center the new one and then switch to the socket. You can use the same socket or the next bigger size to set your oil seal. Works great everytime.

I'm all squared away except for something I was going to put over on Pete's 'Murphy's Law' thread. I have 1 race that has the right part # on it, but it rattles around like a BB in a box car in its bore.

It's not the bore as I tried more than 1...

I was always taught to use the right tools for the job, but then not everyone learns from a ASE Master Technician either or has to worry about the customer coming back because you half assed it and they broke down.


I've always used the proper equipement for the last 30 years with no customer break downs

a race should never be loose/spin if it does it's the wrong size or the bore is junk

Thanks again for everyone's help. I have new bearings and races in 4 hubs, 2 with newly turned drums. I also have the new actuator and brake assemblies.

The only real problem on installation(except for 1 side parked against the garage!) was the fittings in the backs of the wheel cylinders. I guess they had a right to fuss after 20 years.

We also pumped a lot of nastyness out of the lines(Amy is a trooper!). I guess in the perfect world I would have replaced the lines, though we kept after it until it came through clear.

Now it's ready for planting.