Adding a keel roller

I need to add a keel roller to the back of the front bunks. The current set-up is not very forgiving on a less than ideal ramp.

My idea is to notch the back of both bunks so a roller can be bolted to the frame. I think I want the roller only on the back so that it sits on the bunks when it's all the way forward. I could also knotch the back edges of the bunks at a 45 so they would guide the bow to the center.

Does this hold water? Better ideas welcome!

The distance across the tops of the front bunks is 22".

BuffaloBFN wrote: I need to add a keel roller to the back of the front bunks. The current set-up is not very forgiving on a less than ideal ramp.

Greg,
What problems are you having at the ramp? Is the trailer at a steep angle and the boat doen't want to go all the way forward because it sitting pretty level in the water? Never liking the power on principle, I'm a firm believer in a keel roller and the winch set up.

Is this roller available aftermarket. I would like to put one on my 87. The trailer is an 01 and seem a little big. The front bounce slighty. No problem once is tight in place.

Greg they sure built them BFN trailers solid compared to the single axle type 3's.

You could even possibly consider removing the front V bunks totally. You already have the supports there so just using 2 rollers in a V configuration like the boards on each support.

Maybe pictures of the boat actually loaded on these bunks may help make it clearer.

Also make sure you pick the right type of roller. Have found that they make different rollers for glass boats compared to Tinny's(Allum). Also black rubber rollers tend to leave marks on the hull.

The lifting strakes make that a tough hull to "drive on". The deep V is also a concern, which is why those keel bunks are there and it's not just a bigger Ski Nautique 2-bunk wishbone style.

Maybe something like this would help you out. Skinnier bunks (red) kicked out at a slight angle. My angle might be exaggerated but obviously don't go too wide so the keel smashes into the framing in between, and you'd also need to keep an eye on the lifting strakes. Notice I kept the bunks inside the wear marks from those damn strakes. You should be able to keep the same level once on there, the keel doesn't get worn out, and it still does gives good road support (no bouncing). Maybe GlassSeaker can get in here and provide us with a shot of his trailer. I basically copied the design from that Sanger hull. The back half of his trailer looks like an "average" of your rear bunks (purple bunks). Not sure you need to mess with the back half anyway, but I can get better pictures of a Sanger trailer very soon.

Give it a look.

Mine does ok. Just give it gas till you hit the crash pad & stop!

Greg I usually launch and recover my boat from the lake/river bank no ramp. So the boat is never driven on. Just usually guide it on by hand then winch it on the last 5'-6'. Don't like getting the car in to deep try to keep front wheels on dry land. I found the keel roller really helped with winching the boat on that last little bit. It also provides a support point for the weight and prevents bouncing.

Those front bunks look to be a overkill and would make winching on harder with the extra friction. I know when you guys had the boats supported for stringer replacement you only used one support point at the front. The SN type 3 trailers have no support at the front at the bow of the boat this is why I added mine originally.

Wow Greg... Did that bow damage occur loading at the River ?

You sure most of that chafing isn't from beaching the boat? I had a 1987 SN and it was launched from just about everywhere without any chafing like in your pictures. I did have a CC trailer which didn't have the up front bunks like yours, just two front to back ones. Those carpeted bunks didn't wear the keel down like you show.