Water Hook up

WakeSlayer wrote: I actually have a T on my SAN, however, it has never worked. I think it has something to do with the location of it and the distance etc it has to travel. Maybe it is a BBC thing.

What do you mean by "it has never worked"? It won't pull water into the impeller? If so, maybe the impeller is going/gone bad. I would think a good one would provide enough suction to overcome quite a bit of distance and even height of the water going someplace else. Maybe the impeller is just not primed to start out with as well.

I actually have a T on my SAN, however, it has never worked. I think it has something to do with the location of it and the distance etc it has to travel. Maybe it is a BBC thing. Not sure. Path of least resistance. No idea, but it does not work.
I guarantee it would work on the Mustang. While I am inclined to agree that the above is probably the best way, I have never had an issue with my way(s) either.

Tim,

It's good to see when someone uses standard parts and their brain instead of buying some high dollar device that probably won't even work as well.

I'm assuming that when you turn the water on it just blows out the water pick-up until the motor starts and the impellar starts sucking. Do you get any excess water going out the pick-up when the motor is running? I plan on installing a similar setup in a weeks.

Ill go on the record one more time and say that I dont like any of the methods mentioned above.

Fake-a-lake = cheesy. Can easily fall off, and sometimes the intake grate is located over a bunk on the trailer. If the RWP demands more flow than the hose can provide, you could collapse the hose and get zero water- frying the impeller and possibly overheating the engine.

Same problem with putting a hose right on the tranny cooler- if the hose cant keep up with the demand of the RWP, you might run into problems. Plus, now youre messing with hose clamps- waste of time, IMHO. Im also not a fan of drawing antifreeze into the engine via the RWP... why not pour it in via the thermostat housing per the recommendation in the manual? I do both my Conquerer/Crusaders and PCM's like this. If it has a circ pump, you can pour it in!

I guess the Flush-Pro is an OK device... but it seems overly expensive for what it is.

My preferred method is a simple tee in the raw water line. Connects and disconnects in seconds- its the first "mod" I do to all of my boats- makes running on the hose a piece of cake. Theres no chance of collapsing a hose- if the RWP demands more flow than the hose can provide, it will just draw some air through the intake grate. Theres no load so you wont overheat, and theres plenty of water for the impeller to stay lubricated, so no problem with this. $15 in parts from Home Depot.

that is the only way to get antifreeze in there, so I have to do that.

Fake a Lakes are half assed at best.

Take the fresh water supply hose off before the trans cooler. Acquire a 3-5" piece of 1 1/4" I.D. hose and clamp it to the trans cooler. Fill a 5 gallon bucket with water from a hose. Stick your hose from your motor in the bucket, leave the water supply hose in the bucket. Start the boat, start the hose again. You should be able to have a semi even drain / fill ratio in the bucket at idle or slightly above.
DO NOT let the bucket run empty.

I actually just run the hose to the trans cooler, but this is the "right" way to do it. Do as I say, not as I do.

Mike

I know alot of you are gonna think this is a stupid question, but here goes anyways. I have always had I/O boats, and you just wrap ears around the foot to provide water to the engine while on land. Ive noticed alot of videos where it appears that there is a hose hooked to something in th engine compartment while the boats are running on land. Can anyone tell me where the water hook up is a pic would be great mine is a 89 nautique if that helps. Thanks in advance