Replacing strut bushing

Bruce here is 2 1/2 if that is the size you need.90 degree pipe

Mike, thanks. I'll measure it this week end and let you know.

I'll have to figure that part out when I'm looking at the engine. Maybe I can just shorten the straight section between the 2 elbows and let the rubber exhaust hose to the through hull make up for the angle. Once I get the hose down near the level of floor board, I have plenty of room to clear the motor box.

What do you think of me drilling 2 holes in the rear starboard engine mount to mount a water seperating fuel filter to?

Riley wrote: Yes, it is 2.5". $38+-. That is within the budget. I can cut one with a hack saw to allow for the angle of the engine. Great source. Thanks Tim.

Bruce,
You can cut a pie shaped section of the 90 out but you'll need to have it welded back together. You need the "tail" (straight section) of tube for the hose to clamp to.

8122pbrainard wrote: You will probably need to get 90 degree but since you don't need the full 90, a section of the bend will need to be cut out and then welded back together.

Tim,
This is on Bruce's straight 6 so he'll only need 2 bends.

Bruce,
Is it 2&1/2"? Looks like the site Tim found is half the price of Mcmaster! It will fit into your budget better!!

Bruce, if you decide to move forward with this you'll save a ton of money by sourcing the bends from Verocious Motorsports.

If you need 4 bends total, I think you'll come out ahead by buying the U bends. Dont go by what Pete just linked to- I believe you'll need 3"!

If you want to have some full custom S-pipes made up (cut, weld, grind), I can give you a rough idea what it will cost. You might want to be sitting down though!

Riley wrote: I saw your comment about muffler grade ss for exhaust. I had been thinking about going that route for the S bend coming out of my manifold. What do you think the life spand is on muffler grade ss?

Stick with the 304 stainless and not the 400 series "muffler" tubing. Mcmaster SS tube fittings

My background goes back to my after college days with SS. I've always known the difference in corrosion resistance between the 300 and 400 but had never really seen visual proof until a couple weeks ago. We are about to start stamping and polishing pan and pot lids for Alclad. (back from China - yes!!!) Alclad are the ones who make/market all the real high end cookware (the $2000 set that my wife will never see!!) Anyway, the lids are currently being made in China from 400 but because 400 here in the states isn't used for higher quality work, we can't get the 400 in the 2BA (shiny finish) needed. We can in 300 but it's a slightly higher cost. Alclad wanted to know if the extra cost was worth it and could be used as a little extra marketing tool. They went and put both the 400 and the 300 side by side salt in a spray cabinet for a accelerated corrosion test. After 1 week the 400 was solid rust and the 300 showed no signs of corrosion!

Edit: You will probably need to get 90 degree but since you don't need the full 90, a section of the bend will need to be cut out and then welded back together.

Bruce,
The "white metal" is the common term for a zinc die casting. There are many alloys but it's basically aluminum and zinc. Zinc is even lower on the galvanic table than aluminum! It's the reason it's used to make sacrificial anodes for boats. Sounds like Malibu must have hired a ex CC engineer years back!!!!

Bruce,
Do you know what the alloy of the plate was? Malibu must have realized the problem since they replaced it with SS. If you search for the galvanic table and know the two materials, the farther away they are from each other on that table the more prone they are to galvanic corrosion. The lower of the two numbered metals will act as the anode and it will corrode. Sounds like this alloy Malibu had was one of the aluminums. They are always low on the table!!

Riley wrote: There's no problem with dis similar metals?

Bruce,
I've never had a problem nor have I ever heard of the problem on fresh water boats. I just went and found the galvanic table for metals. The listing has about 100 metals. The SS at #40 rating and the bronze at a #52 rating are so close to each that you don't need to be concerned.

Thanks Guys I'll take whats left of my set screws and look through the little drawers at the hardware store.   Monty

if you sawzall the bushing it relieves the pressure of the screws also and makes them easier to remove, alot of times i will saw the bushing and remove then turn the set screws in, instead of out

79TiqueRebuild wrote: Both of my set screws were stripped out so I drilled and used a easy out. both came out with it. Where would I get new ones? Monty

8122pbrainard wrote: Bruce, Use some "removable" Locktite on the screws. If the old ones are slotted, I'd replace them with socket head (allen) SS.

At the hardware store in the little drawers that have the more specialized fasteners.

Bruce,
It's hard to say if the new cutlass is trash or not. If the end is mushroomed then it could probably be cut off slightly without hurting anything. The dimple from the channel locks isn't good because I'm sure the cutlass isn't round anymore. As you know, it's a tight fit!! It's got to go in straight and doing that under the boat with a splitting maul got you into trouble. I'd go for a new one.

If the bedding under the strut looks good and isn't all dried up and falling off then I'd leave it on. If it leaks when you get the boat in the water then you can rebed the strut. The shaft can stay and won't need to come off - just unbolt the coupling halves.

Bruce,
You need K.O.'s dad with his hammer!! No really the threaded rod is a good method. Use fine threaded rod. It will take more cranking but will also give you a mechanical advantage.

Tims drilling dimples for the set screws is good. I do it too. Not too deep as the brass shell is thin. It holds the cutlass better without over tightening the set screws. Use some "removable" Locktite on the screws. If the old ones are slotted, I'd replace them with socket head (allen) SS.