79BFN

Grinch,

Looks Great !!!!!!!!!!

Nice work.

Donald

I'm also looking for these decals on the trailer.

Kirk,this is Marty.I got a guy in Indianapolis that says he can reproduce those decals for us. Get me some more pics as close as you can get & dimensions & he says he'll figure it up & give us a price. My e-mail is mtmabe@northstate.net

Checked all electrical tonight and found two problems. The first is the horn doesn't work. I didn't spend any time on it other than checking the fuse and making sure the wires were connected good. I was a little more concerned with the other problem which is the ignition switch. As soon as I turn the key to the on position, it blows the fuse in the holder beside it. I've checked all of the obvious stuff like the connections and made sure I didn't have something grounding out on a gauge bracket. Unless anyone knows of some obvious problem that occurs on these things, I'll be checking resistance on all the wires this wknd.

Pete. Label is gone, but 12v is comming off the volt gauge going to the fuse and the other wire on the fuse goes, of course to the ign. switch. I know there is no ground on the ign. switch, but until I put a flashlight on the volt gauge, it looked as though the 12v wire was awfull close to the bracket that holds that gauge in place, and thus grounding it out. I eliminated that as a cause for the problem, but have not traced the other wires on the switch. I know that one goes to NSS and the other probably goes to the starter solenoid or relay (it does have both and maybe that's an OMC thing). I would say it would be almost imposible for one of those wires to be grounding against something, thus shorting. (I have of course checked all of the obvious locations this may occur at connection ends.) My guess would rather be, that there is something in the solenoid or relay that's sending 12v to the wrong place (or a short inside of either). I'll dig into it this wknd with the meter and see what I come accross. I'll be glad to check any suggestions out.

Problem found. Without an insulator on this gauge bracket, the wire going to the hour meter gauge from the ign. switch was grounding and causing my short.

Water tested finally. Here is my new punch list........... Not cooling, not charging, tach not working, rudder packing leaking, and water intake leaking. I didn't take it off the trailer, but I'm going to work on this list and try again by the wknd.

My water intake fitting has a 1/4turn shut-off valve on it. It is leaking from this valve and I can't think of any reason there needs to be a shut-off valve here anyway. Can I just eliminate the valve and solve my leaking, or does it need to be there??

Is the impeller the same for the PCM and OMC engines? I think I have a new one laying around for a PCM, but I haven't pulled the OMC apart yet.

I found an impeller (not the same one used on a Sherwood or PCM) at NAPA and installed along with a new t-stat. And yes, Pete, you are correct on that nut..... I probably got a full turn on it. I found the missing wire for the tach and hooked it up. I dropped my alternator off at the local rebuild shop and he said it was definitely not charging. I am going to go with a (1)wire marine alternator so I can get rid of a few wires. I tightened the packing in the rudder, and looks like I might be ready for water test number 2.

Paint comming for graphics tommorrow so I can complete the graphics on the sides. The graphics on the transom turned out good, but I used some left overs I had at the shop and I'm getting enough mixed so I can do the trailer when everything else is finished.

The carpet is from Lowes. The local one had 3 different grades on I/O carpet. I bought the mid grade and did the whole thing for less than $150. I wanted the original type I/O astro turf type in red/black pattern, but I searched for it without results. If you want that stuff, all I found was green, blue, and brown.

the grinch wrote: I wanted the original type I/O astro turf type in red/black pattern, but I searched for it without results. If you want that stuff, all I found was green, blue, and brown.

I ran into this the other day - it's red but no black flake: turf type carpet

Water tested tonight real quick before dark. No leaks and cooling just fine. I still have some wires to figure out, as tach and new alt. not working. The reason it is all such a mess is because PO had put an HEI distributor out of a car in this thing. Pete, the PCM wiring diagram is of course simialar, but the wire colors are incorrect. I've kind of been comparing it with the newer(86)SN wiring diagram. I've figured out worse wiring problems, and I'll get it when I've got some daylight and have it in the water.
I took her off the trailer and up the cove for a little spin. It seems as though the rpms are there, but the boat is not moving in comparison. It feels like maybe a slipping transmission in a car would feel. Any suggestions?

the grinch wrote: I took her off the trailer and up the cove for a little spin. It seems as though the rpms are there, but the boat is not moving in comparison. It feels like maybe a slipping transmission in a car would feel. Any suggestions?

Probably not a bad idea to get a shop tach hooked up to check out the boats tach and get a WOT RPM. Then check out what prop is on the boat before digging into the trans.

I've solved more issues on the punch list but some new ones have popped up now that I can really giver a run.
I pumped the trans. fluid out and refilled. I took the shaft back out and the coupler off. I cleaned both couplers real well with emory and rechecked all for burrs. One problem was definetely the fit of the coupler on the shaft. It was loose and I replaced the keyshaft and tightened to set bolts when I reinstalled. I finished it off by putting on the spare prop. All of this made a huge difference and I will be putting on my other prop when I get it back from straightening.

My new problem is a leaking valve cover. Of course it's leaking at the rear lower corner and you can't get to the bolt with the exhaust hose and/or manifold installed. I'm going to remove the exhaust hose and see if I can get to it, but if not, the x manifold will have to come off.

Anyone have any of these factory hubcabs for a CC trailer they would like to get rid of?

Solved my leaking valve cover problem by replacing all of the bolts with allen heads so I can get to them to tighten without removing exhaust manifolds and hoses. I picked up the rest of my interior and have it all in.
I am not crazy about the way the boat loads on the trailer. I'm going to add some short centering bunks up towards the front. I'll post some pics once they are in place.