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strut bushing

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kevin719 View Drop Down
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    Posted: June-27-2009 at 9:10pm
How do you know when strut bushingis bad?? Is the prop real tight in neutral? Will a bad bushing make the engine run crappy?My boat screams in the warm-up but as soon as i put it in gear it starts to miss out. I set the points and timing and I am thinking a bad condensor?? It does not matter because I am going to order a whole new distributer with electronic ignition.Any suggestions on where to buy and the model would be greatly appreciated! We hit 40 today even with the miss :). It is sooo close yet soo far! It is a 74southwind 351w. crusader Thanks again guys!Kevin
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote 8122pbrainard Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: June-28-2009 at 10:11am
With a worn cutlass bearing and proper strut/shaft/engine alignment, the prop shaft will be loose. The prop shaft will have excessive radial play. Sounds like you alignment is bad and or your strut is bent. Have you done any alignment checks? Didn't you check a couple months ago or was that someone else! If not, start by disconnecting the shaft coupling haves and see where the shaft wants to go then get back to us.


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77 Tique

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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote SNobsessed Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: June-28-2009 at 10:36am
Kevin - Most guys are going with a Mallory Distributor. Summit Racing is a convenient source. make sure you are getting a Marine distributor. A new coil is a complementary upgrade. I put in a MSD Blaster2 High Vibration Epoxy coil.

The Mallory dist. is easy to customize the timing advance curve. I think this provides more benefit than the change to EI itself.
“Beer is proof that God loves us and wants us to be happy.”

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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote kevin719 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: June-28-2009 at 11:48am
pbrainard, no I have not checked the alignment yet but I will this afternoon. Will that extra load make the engine have a miss? It is also very slow out of the hole! I set the points at .020 before we went out,and on the water I tried .019,.o22. Did not make any difference! I also played with the timing on the water and it really didnt help. The miss is actually backfiring through the carb. I changed the external coil resistor but not the coil or condensor for points.The p.o. said he just changed and the look new.There is no miss in the warm-up mode and it really sounds great!Thanks snobssed I will check out summitt racing!
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote 8122pbrainard Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: June-28-2009 at 12:14pm
Kevin,
Do check out the alignment but I don't feel that is your only problem. You need to continue to go after the engine. Have you checking the firing order making sure the plug wires are connected properly? Do you have a dwell meter or are you just setting the point gap?


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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote kevin719 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: June-28-2009 at 12:28pm
I have a dwell meter that a friend loaned me but not sure the correct setting and how to use it.have not checked firing order(what is the order)and wires are good. I replaced rotor and cap last week. I did notice on the water yesterday that the cap has some play in it.It had 2 metal pins that hold it tight and 1 is missing.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote 8122pbrainard Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: June-28-2009 at 1:46pm
Kevin, What engine do you have? Get the cap fixed.


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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote kevin719 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: June-28-2009 at 2:07pm
351 w crusader     Do you know the firing order and cyl. #. I think that #1 should be the front left like most fords,but these may be different.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote 8122pbrainard Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: June-28-2009 at 5:41pm
Kevin,
Go the the early PCM engine manual in the reference section. It should be the same.


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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote kevin719 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: June-28-2009 at 8:02pm
I believe that I figured it out.I found the engine tag (that was painted over and it had the firing order,points gap(.016),dwell 30 degrees). The p.o. put on new pcm wires and had mixed up #3 & #7.It should run better on 8 cylinders. I set the points and hooked up the dwell meter and it is at 29 degrees not 30. Should that be good enough?Also where the heck are the timing marks?? I believe that they are painted as well.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote SNobsessed Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: June-29-2009 at 12:55am
Sounds like you hit the bullseye with plug wire order. The timing marks are on the harmonic balancer (behind pulley on front of crankshaft). You want to set it at 10 degrees before TDC at 600-700 RPM idle.   
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote kevin719 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: June-29-2009 at 10:13pm
I still want to align the strut! I will wait until after this weekend and will probably have questions! What should I do about the "uprights" on the distributer that keep the cap from moving? One is broke off and the other is not far behind.I would like to wait for the electronic ignition upgrade for this winter if possible I have a 10 mo. old boy and a lot less extra cash than i used to have:)
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote 8122pbrainard Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: June-30-2009 at 10:01am
Kevin,
I'm not sure what you mean about this "uprights" on the distributor. Is it some kind of key that fits into the cap? How about a picture.


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