Synthetic Oil or not

I'm looking into buying a 1999 sport nautique. Boat looks to be in good shape, but I will know more when I test drive. The owner told me he used synthetic oil. Is there anything I should look for or listen for when I test drive the boat. I have never used synthetic oil in anything I have owned and never had any issues. Just not sure if this will be a problem or not. The boat has around 450 hours on a GT40 EFI engine. Looking for others experiences and advice. Thanks!

TX Foilhead wrote: I use Mobil 1 20w50 in my 93 Ford it has the additive and is no more expensive than the conventional Valvoline VR1

Where are you buying M1 for $3/qt??? Ill buy a bunch at that price!

Careful about calling ZDDP an "additive". Its an important part of the chemical composition of an oil if you plan to use it in a flat tappet motor. To me, an additive is something you add in addition to the oil... of which I dont know of any that I would recommend to replace the ZDDP if the oil you choose is lacking.

boat dr recommends straigh rotella T 30...
I got a place here that sell the vr1 but for around $10 the quart

Stuart,
I'd have to say that the owner of the boat you're looking at has been watching too much TV and "thinking with his dipstick"!! He certainly isn't tuned into what a flat tappet engine needs. The key factor here, as mentioned is the ZDDP and not a Synthetic. Valvolene VR1 also has the high levels of ZDDP. I happen to be running VR1 20-50 in all my boats but some do prefer the straight weights.

Welcome to the site. Keep us informed.

Being fairly unknowledgable about motors, I have been largely ignorant to the required oil in these machines. I have always used Mobil 1 15w50 syn in my newer boats as that what the orig owner of my first one used. I have just continued this practice in the last two.
I was using regular old oil in my wife's Mustang boat and car. I just purchased VR1 20w-50 conventional for both of these applications and will be replacing this fall before I put them up for the winter.

One question for you guys more versed, what should I be using in my old Allis Chalmers D17? It is a 57 or 58, clueless on the engine mfg, takes the same Ford filter (FL1A) everything else I have takes. (Including my 502 Chevy )

WakeSlayer wrote: One question for you guys more versed, what should I be using in my old Allis Chalmers D17? It is a 57 or 58, clueless on the engine mfg, takes the same Ford filter (FL1A) everything else I have takes. (Including my 502 Chevy )

I grew up on a farm.
As I recall, we used Texaco URSA HD 30 in most all of the tractors, from the old M Farmall, to the Massey Ferguson 245 and 255. My dad didn't get an Allis until I had already moved out.

The tractor, including the engine, whether it's the 4-cylinder gasoline or the 6-cylinder was completely manufactured by Allis Chalmers. The diesel would probably run well with any straight weight high ZDDP oil.
If it were my hay hauler, I'd most likely use a straight weight Rotella.

What would make an oil "not street legal" ?

WakeSlayer wrote: One question for you guys more versed, what should I be using in my old Allis Chalmers D17? It is a 57 or 58, clueless on the engine mfg, takes the same Ford filter (FL1A) everything else I have takes. (Including my 502 Chevy )

Mike we have a 47 ford a 49 and 59 internationals and we just use a good quality oil and have had no problems.The 59 is used for mowing so it is used the most, but remember spring pressures are low,compression is low and rpm's are low. The IH's are rated at 1800 rpm but we never run them flat out.

lonestar wrote: What would make an oil "not street legal" ?

Don is correct that it's the EPA and their concerns with the ZDDP which is a zinc compound/heavy metal. If I remember correctly, the VR1 has the highest levels of the ZDDP and must put it into a different class with the EPA.

A similar problem is with anti fouling bottom paints. The EPA rules back in the 80's changed the amount of tin they could contain which drastically changed their performance. Bronze (copper and tin) anti fouling paint isn't bronze any more!!

Mobil 1 has 1800 PPM ZDDP
Rotella mulit has 1200 PPM ZDDP---straight weight has less but I'm not sure of the number.

xj here you con find the info on the pictures
how to post pictures

Glen.
Lets see if this works. The new site is different and definitely confusingly at times!! glens link

EDIT: not working!! try again!!

What the heck about a Correct Craft can possibly be "cost prohibitive", if you own one oil is probably going to be the least of your costs, so why not go with the best! Just kidding a little on that, but I have always run synthetic in my cars and Harley. I find that it tends to run a little cooler. I am not aware of any downside other than cost.