UK’s 78 SN

Seb you can always earn more money but time once its used that's it.

Shaun I think the cradle came in mid to end of 79 so if you do not have one I think yours is pre cradle which was a 6x2 notched into the stringers and across under the floor, as for the partition in front of it yes it should be there and water tight if not water will soak into the foam and slow the boat down with all the extra weight.

May be able to pull the pylon out and fix a 8x2 or bigger to get you to the end of the season but it sure looks like its a full stringer job in the fall/winter.

Have a look at this post too, you will see what needs to be done.


79 nautique rebuild

Roger,

Seb here are some odd bits I did a while back.

All in S/S and Glass/Epoxy





All the best Roger.

Thanks Monty good to here from you,not good on the contract front not sure how it works in the USA , but with this hanging over your head you just can't plan for the future.

As for the boat I plod on, for the rudder port I used 1/4 sheet glass first to bring me up over the uneven hump in the hull around the port so just cut a big hole and filled around the hump, I found the old wood was set on a cotton wool like glass which was full of water after 3 years out as was the back ply lifting support,water had wicked right up to the top. I know you have uncovered your port just be careful if you grind the glass under the wood its not flat there is a hump to work around.

Then on top of the 1/4 layer some cloth followed by 1/2 glass sheet then cloth and biaxial over the top.

As for no wood hope the boats will be used by my daughters and there kids if I'm lucky, so with that in mind trying to build in low care boat for sea and lake.

The only wood I'm keeping are the 2 blocks each side for the Speedo dampers just to remind me of original Pete.

Roger.

Pete, your passion for CC boats is known around the world, all the best Roger.

Roger,

Great work! love the foam molds. You probably know already but if you want to avoid the plastic you can use PVA. just brush or spray on and it makes a plastic like film over your mold that is water soluable. For flat surfaces you can use a MDF/fiber board with a coat of cheap primer and then the PVA each time you lay up and it will pull right off.

Either way very cool work.

HI Jim and thanks good to see how others are doing there glass work, like the Idea of your stringers will have a go at that on my other 78 and will try your PVA tip as I have tones of Mdf here and PVA but may have a slight problem as I think in the USA your PVA is much better,yellow in colour and pure, as in the UK we have the white type which has allot of fillers in it but will give it a go.

Have a look at Hasbeenskier posts he has used a sheet of glass with
wax.

More Like a Briar Patch


Roger.

If you have the odd hole make a small amount of foam and fill, just lay the PVC back on then the board with weights




Once your happy with the foam just clean off odd bits around the edges and fold over the over hang onto the top and tape up


Now you should have the foam in a bag


This should be Ok for the guys that use sheet material for the floor like I am, but would need some more thought if you are to lay up a floor over it.

Thanks Peter thought it would make a few smile, it was my first attempt with foam so unsure how tight it would go but as it happened the PVC I used was a good thickness and along with the pour holes not that much pressure build up, but you do get some heat as it sets so you could get problems if you used thin PVC
As for the pull strips as it worked out they were not needed you can just lift out foam in a bag in one.



One thing that may be of interest to the purists if you are going to pour Foam straight into the hull for a lay up floor you could do as I have but cut the PVC off around the top or if its a total original foam straight in the hull make some boards up with pour holes cover with PVC to lay on top of stringers add weights and fill that way foam is set at right height with that nice film to the top.

Need some out of the box thinking juice so a few bottles of Old Peculiar Ale should do it

Lets see how much water the foam of today will soak up? the lump is off the top of a pour hole so has a nice skin on the dome and a sawn flat face to the other side.
The dry weight is 46.7g now have placed in a old can under water with a rock on it to hold it down, will check the weight every so often.

After the first 24 hours under water took it out and dried the outside only,weight is now 56.3g so has soaked up by 9.60g or put on 0.34 of a ounce of water, the volume of the foam is around 22 cubic inches,now back under water to see if it will soak more.

So far its holding up well.

never, ever notice the stink?

Checked the foam now after a week submerged now at 60.2g so has soaked up by 13.5g (0.48 oz) so still holding up well,now submerged for another week.

There you go Kris that's the amount of water the foam has taken on after a week! my thoughts are it will now level out but time will tell.
As for foam or something else against running nothing again is subjective to if water actually finds it way inside the hull in a big way and how well you do your floor stringer rebuild. Again some of this is down to how you intend to use your boat,for me I shall be in the sea as well,may even run over to France on a flat days its only 26 miles so the tanks and foam give me piece of mind out at sea.
The way I see it if you run with nothing and for some reason water is finding its way into the voids it will just fill up and hold more water unless its well air vented in some way and if you should take on a big wave could sink.
So if there is something under the floor that is buoyant there is less room for water to fill, now having played around with the modern foam and something Pete has said many moons ago will try another test on the foam.

Thanks for your input and just for fun popped a bit of packing foam which i think is like the pool noodles been under a day taken on 0.5g

    13.5g of water.

Roger,
Thanks for taking on the testing of foam. I think what we need to do is figure out a way to encapsulate the foam similar to the way they do the dock foam. I like your foam mold if there was only a way to heat shrink it to waterproof it. Monty