2001v-drive

I know some of you like original rebuilds and might find conflict with many aspects of my project but I ask that you look past that and try to appreciate all the hard work that goes into a project like this.I too love classic mustangs and think they are a work of art but this boat is a machine used four times or more a week.Its a tool we use often and as such cosmetic sacrifices have to be made in favor of function.This whole project is based on making the boat more usable and comfortable for our family and along the way a little more apealing to the eye.
Plans consist of stringer repair,v-drive conversion,fuel injection,new gellcoat(solid babyblue),ballast,perfectpass,heater and shower installs along with a whole new interior layout.
Most of you already know I am starting with Chris's old boat,the 88 model 2001 thats been in his family for a long time.

There's a guy on the2001.com that has already done this convertion, I posted it here a few months ago, it is worth the search.

I'll throw you a few things to consider:
1-fuel tank location, belly or under the bow deck
2-what brand and model of vdrive, trying to keep the same shaft angle and strut, what reduction gear.
3-Not much space for underfloor ballast, maybe it isnt worth the task.


My considerations after seeing this other guy's project
1- Fuel tank under the bow or underfloor but as forward located as possible.
2-Walter vdrive is cheaper and has the longer profile (as does the new PCM or older Velvets) for allowing the location of the engine in the rear and keep the shaft angle. 1.5:1 reduction would be nice.
3- No underfloor ballast, there's plenty with the engine on the back now.

Edit:
After seeing the pics of such a sweet boat I wonder why you want to modify it?????

My v-drive came in on a pallet this week.I choose to use a new walters 1.5-1 like what come factory in a nautique for many reasons I will explain later,

Thanks luchog I think I will add that to my list.

pretty well got the interior stripped except for the stubborn carpet,





This little bastard was no fun at all

Interesting project! The other conversion was fantastic, it's been posted on probably every boating/boarding/skiing forum and everybody seems to absolutely love it. But with its classic look, it'd be a waste to put a tower on it. I've been wondering what an '85 or later 2001 V-drive wake-edition conversion would look like. So here we go...!

Hey Ryan,

I got a question for ya about your interior pieces that you took out. Email me at skizzer@optonline.net Thanks so far looking good. I am just finishing up my stringer job on my 85 did everything out of Coosa board so its completely composite, except the removable floor behind the dog house.

Thanks

Phil

Ryan,
I admire your ambition even though I feel it would have been easier to start with a V drive hull! Of course then the hull would be different.

The shaft couplings can be a real PITA!! The couplings are a heat shrink fit. Looks like Chris got it on correctly - of course I'd expect that from him! Sometimes I feel it's easier and would take less time to pull the engine and then remove the shaft forward. Since you need to pull the engine, I'm just wondering why you didn't use that method. For future reference, using the four fine thread threaded rods with a deep socket between the prop shaft and the trans coupling works pretty good. You have the advantage of the four bolts instead of two to apply the pressure. BTW, if you plan on using that couplig half again, you should press it on the prop shaft, chuck up the shaft in the lathe and then take a cut on the mating face. There's a good chance that it's warped from using the two bolt puller.

I'm curiuos about your Walters choice? Fill us in!

Waldo,being in the streetrod/restoration business the first rule of thumb is start with the best you can find because it cost more to repair then to buy nice.I tried the best I could to let Chris know what I was doing and assume he will be very proud to have previously owned this boat when he sees the end result.Besides that I am rebuilding this dude and extending its life far into the future.

Peter,I didn't understand the magnitude of what I was involved in until I was already knee deep in torches and bent pullers.I guess I should have asked first and saved the time.

Eric,my first choice was the 630v but it was designed to run both directions so as to use two lefthand engines and cannot be setup for a right hand engine.I don't know how much the right hand really matters but I didn't want to risk any side effects from a direction conversion.I also considered a casale gearbox with a small driveshaft but found the cost to be very high and the people envolved with those boxes are a pita to deal with.
The reality is the rv26 walters is cheap easy to install and behind a 240 horse is almost bullet proof.I also felt like if I went to sell this boat the factory unit would look more professional.

form&function wrote: The reality is the rv26 walters is cheap easy to install and behind a 240 horse is almost bullet proof.I also felt like if I went to sell this boat the factory unit would look more professional.

Ryan,
You haven't gotten to the point of installing the Walters yet so it's not too late. I really question the unit being "bullet proof". Lots of problems out there with it!! The "U" joint design is not what I consider a engineering marvel!! You should give Eric a call and talk to him about the 630V.

Eric, if he would have choosen the ZF, it's a much shorter unit he'd need to modify the strut and shaft angle to fit and that would be entering into dark territories.

Maybe not the Walters, but any "longprofile" unit.

Joe certainly has a point there, what's the largest diameter you can fit in there now? I'd use a 1' 1/8'' shaft too if possible with the 1.5:1, a 16 pitch propeller turns like crazy with that power reduction.

You dont have much propeller choices on 13' for that power reduction but you do on 13.5.

robust!!! decieving word, remove the r and the o, lol
I keep saving tranny's for all these projects, from a cost perspective he has the BW already, and is halfway there, but if you had to purchase the combo it would be more cost effective to go with the 630,
the 630 would shorten the engine hatch for more room in the boat. just posting for future reference..sht if i had a turbo 400 laying around i would try to use it,lol
If it was a wish list with no budget the choice for me would be the 630, and there is nothing wrong with the route your taking..
luch, the angles are close and if need be you could use a wedge plate to accomadate any angle

Eric wich a much shorter unit you would need to put a lot of wedge plates.... or place the engine not all that far into the back, maybe it's doable but my point is that some planning needs to be done.

Hi guys, followed this over form the2001.com.   I did the first conversion that was posted there and i guess someone took the picstures and posted them on here as well.

form&function,   first let me say good luck, its going to be a lot of work.   Youre starting at the right time, giving yourself 5-6 months to complete depending on where you are located.   

First, i went with a 1.21 ratio walters. So i cant comment on the 1.5:1

Dont worry about the shorter stack vdrive/trannys these guys are talking about. the position and angle of the shaft in the boat would only mean you have to move the motor further foward with a shorter stack setup.   So you dont gain any space in the boat. That is unless you change your shaft, shaft hole in the boat.   I dont think its worth it but thats up to you.

I used stock driveshaft and with walter everything fell right into place.

That boat looks liek its in GREAT condition!!! Might want to rethink that gelcoat job.   Its longgggg hard work and its expensive, and you have a great looking boat already.

If you have any other questions youre stuck on let me know.
   
What are you using the boat for? Wakeboarding or Surfing? I hope you dont plan on any slalom skiing.

Ryan, were in Oklahoma are you?