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More winterizing questions ... fluids ...

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    Posted: October-13-2009 at 2:14am
Good previous post, thanks all.

Couple comments, things I do I did not see mentioned ...

I put in a bottle of STABIL (if you can find the marine formula green bottle, I never can where we live) in the fuel tank and drive around to slosh & mix, before I do my winterization so that mixture gets into the engine while warming for oil change and antifreeze. I always store my boat with a full fuel tank to eliminate condensation. I use the pink anti-freeze and make sure it is propylene glycol. I loosen my ALT and water pump belts. I blow air out of the speedo air tubes and pack the trailer bearings. I pull my battery, store someplace that doesn't freeze (garage) and overnight trickle charge 1 or 2 times over the winter.

When I am ready to run antifreeze through, I remove the R/W hose from the Strainer outlet and stick that into the bottom of a 5 gal bucket, with the antifreeze in that. Once done, I remove the Strainer.

I also change my oil and ATF. What is the preferred oil ? Make and weight ? I am in Idaho at 6000 feet, it does get cool in spring and fall. I have been using 20W50 or straight 30W ??? And will any ATF do ?

thanks, cheers, John
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote damonwells Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: October-13-2009 at 2:19am
oops ... I use Dextron II 20WSF for ATF, is this good stuff ?
thanks, cheers, John
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote 8122pbrainard Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: October-13-2009 at 9:26am
Originally posted by damonwells damonwells wrote:

Good previous post, thanks all. When I am ready to run antifreeze through, I remove the R/W hose from the Strainer outlet and stick that into the bottom of a 5 gal bucket, with the antifreeze in that. Once done, I remove the Strainer. John


John,
This method has been discussed at length here in other threads. I caution you because you haven't mentioned draining the water first. RV antifreeze needs to be used full strength and not diluted. Without draining the water first you have no guarantees that you have all the water out and haven't diluted the RV. You may not have all the areas protected. DO IT OVER - DRAIN FIRST!

BTW, the suck through uses way more antifreeze than needed. Take a look at the manual. There you'll find the recommended proceedure is the pour in method.

Oils as well have been discussed to a even larger extent. You want a oil with high levels of ZDDP to protect your flat tappet engine. Rotella and Valvolene VR1 are good choices.


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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote TRBenj Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: October-13-2009 at 1:13pm
I agree 100% with Pete- you gotta drain the water first regardless of how you add the antifreeze! I also use the pour in method with the antifreeze. My Fords take about 3 gallons before a/f leaks out the risers. Like I mentioned in the other thread, I remove the RWP and the impeller and store them inside per PCM's recommendation.

For fluids I use Valvoline Racing VR1 20w50. Rotella straight weight (30w or 40w) is fine too. Ambient air temp doesnt come into play much with oil choices, especially if you never run when temps are below 50.

On the ATF, stick with conventional ATF, either Dex/Merc or Dex III. Do NOT use synthetic. Avoid high mileage formulations, never use additives. I like Valvoline Dex/Merc.

I usually store with my gas tank about half full. Enough to avoid a lot of condensation as well as prevent spilling due to contraction/expansion due to temp changes. I usually top off with high octane come springtime. I also try to add stabilizer early to make sure it mixes fully and makes its way all the way through the carb.

I dont see mention of fogging your cylinders, but I do that as well. Usually I just pour oil or spray fogging oil down the throat of the carb until I get a lot of smoke out of the exhaust. If Im feeling fancy, Ill squirt a few shots of oil in each cylinder and turn the engine over as well.

Ive always done the same as you with the battery, but Pete will tell you its not needed. I may not remove them from the boats this year- just disconnect them and give them a good charge before storing the boat away.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote damonwells Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: October-13-2009 at 3:37pm
oops, yup, I always pull all 5 plugs and drain completely before I run the AF through ... sorry, this was mentioned in other posts so I didn't talk about it. When I do this I purge each hole with a small nylon brush to make sure there is no sediment blocking them. I also take the garden hose and flush that through with the plugs out.

And thanks for the other tips, I saw this in other posts, I'll switch to the pouring in AF method !

TR > thanks for your info too ! I fog as you say and couple drops oil in the cylinders, then dry-start, I didn't mention this as I thought I was only adding what I didn't see posted elsewhere, but thanks again, this is great !

cheers, John
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote damonwells Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: October-13-2009 at 5:21pm
TR > you say never use additives. once a summer I pour a small bottle of Lucas Upper Cylinder Lubricant into the fuel tank ... not necessary / or a good idea ?
thanks, cheers, John
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote TRBenj Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: October-13-2009 at 7:12pm
Originally posted by damonwells damonwells wrote:

TR > you say never use additives. once a summer I pour a small bottle of Lucas Upper Cylinder Lubricant into the fuel tank ... not necessary / or a good idea ?
thanks, cheers, John

John, my comment against additives was in reference to the tranny- never use any additives in that. I suspect that what youre adding to the fuel isnt harmful, but probably not necessary either. Id save your money. One of the only additives that Ive heard good things about is Seafoam... I may give that a try this fall or next spring.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote damonwells Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: October-13-2009 at 8:15pm
thanks, I run Seafoam through my Yanmar diesel sailboat engine once/year to clean the injectors, works well. I pour it into the (primary) fuel filter, shut the engine off soon after that, let it sit for 24 hours, cheers, John
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote SNobsessed Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: October-13-2009 at 9:30pm
I used seafoam mixed with 30W engine oil to coat the cylinders this year. Hope there is nothing to report next spring!
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote 8122pbrainard Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: October-13-2009 at 10:24pm
Originally posted by SNobsessed SNobsessed wrote:

I used seafoam mixed with 30W engine oil to coat the cylinders this year. Hope there is nothing to report next spring!


Chris,
Since day one of my winterizing boats, I've used 1/2 Marvel Mystery and engine oil. I learned to use it back in the late 60's when working at Watercraft Sales. It's what they had used for years. That was before the days of the aerosol fogging oil!!


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