2001v-drive

I think I would still run them down between the primary stringers just for ease.
Run it all through a 4" PVC tube from the bow through the bulkhead at the front of the bilge. I do agree on a smaller PVC run for the wiring down the bilge, but heater hoses and steering cable I would run loose.

btw: Nice work so far Ryan! You are pounding this out pretty quickly.

Ryan, I may be wrong but I think you want regular ply coated in epoxy instead of marine ply. If its treated the epoxy won't stick to the ply. My Skier is regular untreated 1/2" ply coated in epoxy and is very stout. My floor is also removable. Came that way from CC.

I'll give you a call later today, headin home this AM.

Thanks Steve, whats the benefit of marine ply over regular coated with epoxy?

less voids
more plys?
waterproof glue

Hollywood wrote: less voids more plys? waterproof glue

Yes, very tight specs on inner ply voids as in most cases, marine is structural.

Exterior ply uses the same waterproof glue.

form&function wrote: Its marine grade 1/2 inch plywood.I was told it has a different glue and is made of high quality wood.It looks to be about the best and smoothest plywood I have ever seen.Douglas fir I think.So glass the bottom then install it with stainless screws and resin the sides to the ply?

I would glass the bottom (two layers of 7-10oz cloth so I could stagger the seams if it was me) then I would put strips of fiberglass mat saturated with epoxy over the top of the stringersm, place the floor down on that and use your screws to hold the floor down. Tape the sides to the boat with overlapping layers of cloth tape, I use two layers of 2 inch wide, two layers of 4 wide, and two layers of 8 inch wide but there are plenty of acceptable ways. I would then use cloth or mat to cover everything from approx 6 inches up the side to down over and a inch or so past any exposed floor/stringer joints. Normally those would be in the center but you will only have them if your planning a removable center floor section. Any screws you use to fasten seats, etc through the floor should be well sealed.

When I bought my mustang the previous owner had put in a plywood floor and was very excited about the fact that he had sealed the entire thing with glass and west system epoxy. Problem is he then put holes in it everywhere to do everything from mount the seats to add a raised lip to increase engine cover clearance, there was nothing left to the floor in most spots but mush between two thin layers of glass.

My understanding was that marine ply had slighty less voids. Other than than that exterior is the same as marine, except considerably less expensive. I used 5/8" exterior grade ply. I thickened epoxy to put down the bow, cockpit, and front half of the motor, then used stainless screws, countersunk, and bakc filled with epoxy. I pre-drilled these holes and also filled with epoxy using a syringe as best I could. For the section on each side from the exhaust back, I used somewhat less thickened epoxy in the event that I ever had to get back in there with an unlikely exhaust failure. My pipes are outboard of the stringers. I did not glass the floor to the sides. I got some of the black floor trim stock from CC that was used in the 80's and 90's along the edge. this was also due to "just in case" I ever had to pull the floor for some reason, I would hopefully not completely destroy the floor trying to get it up.

8122pbrainard wrote: form&function wrote: So glass the bottom then install it with stainless screws and resin the sides to the ply? I'd CPES all surfaces and then a couple coats of epoxy resin. You are using epoxy correct? Silicon bronze is the premium boat fastener.

Pete,for the sake of avoiding a argument I will not disclose the materials used on my boat.I will say they are high quality and compatable with the factory resin.I also have some bronze marine screws if I can find them.

I've known guys to use billboard before. the same stuff that they use on the highways billboards. It is 3/4", treated, waterproofed, and supposedly hurricane proof. I know for a fact it ways about 5X's that of marine 1/2' as I used it on a deck-dock boat this past summer. It is solid!!! Not sure if it woulf work on your application though.

form&function wrote: Pete,for the sake of avoiding a argument I will not disclose the materials used on my boat.I will say they are high quality and compatable with the factory resin.I also have some bronze marine screws if I can find them.

Come on Chris be a good sportsman.


I am impressed with the progree, you are doing the boat really quick. Do you do this living? Can't wait to see the end result.

there are 2 things i dont discuss on these forums, well 3, woman, resin and painting the outside of boats. maybe a little about woman lol

C-Bass wrote: If you know the pros/cons of both resins, what led you down the path of choosing the polyester? Don't worry, I'm not baiting you into an arguement, I'm just curious.

If you have a steel car body you don't try to patch it with aluminum.

baited and pulled in...on the other side of the coin, what if the repair doesnt require epoxy? whats the difference? people still put foam back in these boats and thats the root of the problem. the analogy is the same as telling my kid if you keep eating sweets your going to get a cavity again.
the problems always been foam, wood, water, rot

SN206 wrote: I've known guys to use billboard before. the same stuff that they use on the highways billboards. It is 3/4", treated, waterproofed, and supposedly hurricane proof. I know for a fact it ways about 5X's that of marine 1/2' as I used it on a deck-dock boat this past summer. It is solid!!! Not sure if it woulf work on your application though.

We built a ski jump out of that stuff at one point!

we need a do"s and dont topic, drain em dont drain em, foam no foam, polyester or epoxy