Ram-Lin trailer brakes

Diagrams are available on the internet. You need to determine what type of system you have first, then Google it.

More than likely, you will need to replace the master cylinder, and brake assemblies.

I suggest you purchase free backing brake assemblies. Purchasing the brakes as an assembly (includes shoes, cylinders and backing plates) is the cheapest way to go and the easiest way to go. It does require removing the hubs and repacking the bearings. But, this is a good opportunity to inspect the bearings.

Now that you have replaced all the hydraulic components, it is a good time to switch to silicon brake fluid. The advantage of silicon is that it does not absorb water and thus less likely to cause the internal corrosion that probably rendered your current brakes inoperative.

Congratulations on the recent purchase.

Keep in mind that the brake parts are almost certainly generic and not even matched by manufacturer. In other words, you have a Ram-Lin trailer, but the actuator is Atwood and back assemblies are by someone else. This is common and acceptable.

If you do end up replacing the brake assemblies (cheapest way to go and easiest), then by all means, spend about $10.00 and get the free backing type. Free backing will enable you to back your trailer up any grade without having to get out and lockout the actuator each and every time you back, stop and back again.

And, keep in mind that ALL individual parts that make up the actuator are usually available individually. The most common failure parts are: Master cylinder, shock absorber, emergency or break-away cable.

One last thing. If you replace the wheel bearings and seals, please keep in mind that boat trailers use special dual lip seals (NOT automotive type) to help keep the water out of the bearings. However, automotive bearings are fine to use.