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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote skfitz Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: October-24-2009 at 4:34pm
Why couldn't you laminate plywood for the stringers?

I've been looking at all options in anticipation of my stringer replacement next winter. I'm favoring Coosa board and no foam at this point, but couldn't you save a ton over that by using plywood instead and laminating/building it up like JoeinNY did with the Coosa?
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote 8122pbrainard Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: October-24-2009 at 6:11pm
Originally posted by skfitz skfitz wrote:

Why couldn't you laminate plywood for the stringers?


Shawn,
Due to the problem of finding decent Doug Fir in some parts of the country, we have discussed other options. One of them is the use of LVL (Microlam). Certainly a decent product and it being load rated you sure wouldn't need to worry about the large voids typically found in common plywoods. A plus is it comes already laminated and in any length you need!! It's my #1 choice. before getting into the higher costs/lamination requirements of a composite.


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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote SNobsessed Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: October-24-2009 at 8:52pm
Originally posted by skfitz skfitz wrote:

Why couldn't you laminate plywood for the stringers?


What Pete didn't emphasize was that plywood typically doesn't come in 14 foot lengths, so there would be a weak spot where you have to overlap the layers.

Plus plywood is pretty famous for delaminating when it gets wet.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote behindpropeller Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: October-24-2009 at 11:01pm
Originally posted by SNobsessed SNobsessed wrote:

Originally posted by skfitz skfitz wrote:

Why couldn't you laminate plywood for the stringers?


What Pete didn't emphasize was that plywood typically doesn't come in 14 foot lengths, so there would be a weak spot where you have to overlap the layers.

Plus plywood is pretty famous for delaminating when it gets wet.


Not true.

The last wood wing I took apart had laminated spars with scarf joints. Not any weaker.

Tim

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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote behindpropeller Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: October-24-2009 at 11:05pm
Originally posted by 8122pbrainard 8122pbrainard wrote:

Ryan,
Next time you have any copper alloys to weld up, try your TIG welder. (looks like your shop is well equiped so I assume you have one). Grab a piece of non fluxed brazing rod, set the Tig to AC and continuous high frequency. It welds like aluminum.


Good tip.

You guys might want to try wicks for wood. www.wicks.com

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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote bradtm16 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: October-24-2009 at 11:33pm
Pete, thanks for the Jamestown suggestion, they are $20 cheaper than West on that evercoat. And for how to set up the links.

As far as the boat goes, I know you like to keep it traditional, but I'm with F & F, my boat has already been completely customized for wakeboarding. I am not worried about re-sale, if I ever sale it, if someone doesn't want to give me what I ask for or like the way I have customized it, then to bad. That's why I want to use the best possible material for the stringers, my boys may inherit the boat in 18 years.

Now, I know Overtons isn't the preferred site for ordering materials, but has anyone ever used the Overtons (or any other brand) non-slip coating. I know evercoat makes a good product, but I don't like the fact that you have to mix gel-coat for the color.

Two more suggestions for stringers:

1) I have heard of doing fiberglass stringers, making a mold of the stringer in the boat, then pouring the epoxy mixed with glass into the mold. Anyone have experience with that?

2) Boise Cascade has a manufacturing facility ~ 30 min. from my house that produce engineered wood beams. I may go talk to them, let them know what it will be used for and see what they say.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote skfitz Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: October-25-2009 at 12:20am
Originally posted by SNobsessed SNobsessed wrote:

What Pete didn't emphasize was that plywood typically doesn't come in 14 foot lengths, so there would be a weak spot where you have to overlap the layers.

Thanks for the ideas fellas. I think if you built it up from three layers of 1/2" board you wouldn't have to worry about weak spots because they'd be staggered, just like the Coosa stringers. I think this built-up ply idea might be worth exploring...

I like the glue-lam idea as well. But I really wish there were an affordable wood-free option.

I'm going to do a lot of experimenting over the next 12 months or so.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote eric lavine Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: October-25-2009 at 12:44am
speaking of tig welding, I had a clambake today and decided to heat the pot so it would retain heat in the garage (no water in it)...I rented the pot and yeah, fk i burnt a hole right through it, it was aluminum and it looks like about 150.00 pot...I'll find out tommorow when I tell the guy Im buying his pot. I guess I'll take this one and tig a round patch in it. expensive day.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote form&function Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: October-25-2009 at 1:16am
If you did use ply it would have to be the marine grade and there would be no cost savings over the douglas fir.The only reason for straying from the fir would be to avoid wood all together and thats impossible in a ski nautique without splitting the cap and transom.There is wood all through these boat not just in the floor.There is also many cubic feet of foam in the upper cap that never touches the water in a sinking senario.I have actually considered mounting a empty block in my boat and flooding it to see what happens.My theory is the nose will stay above the surface with a foamless floor.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote 8122pbrainard Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: October-25-2009 at 10:03am
Originally posted by bradtm16 bradtm16 wrote:

I know evercoat makes a good product, but I don't like the fact that you have to mix gel-coat for the color.

Two more suggestions for stringers:

1) I have heard of doing fiberglass stringers, making a mold of the stringer in the boat, then pouring the epoxy mixed with glass into the mold. Anyone have experience with that?


Brad,
Evercoat products lean towards the DIY guy walking into the local marine supply. There are other sources for gel like U.S. Composites or MiniCraft of Florida. Pre pigmented gel is available from them. The only problem is a color match and the quantity you need to buy. I do know MiniCraft does have quarts.

There is a product meant for casting. "Seacast" is heavy and very expensive! Making a mold isn't as easy as you may think. Some have tried to use the old glass over the stringers as a mold by digging out the wood. With both methods, I question the amount of time/cost needed VS just using the conventional wood method. With the Seacast, it would definitely be more expensive.

Also, you need to keep in mind the strength factor of the wood compared to casting. Seacast claims to be made for the purpose but I wouldn't recommend mixing your own. Here's why: In order for the mix to cast/pour, you would need a very high percentage of resin and very little filler. This will make for a very weak mix. The resin itself is weak and It's really only a "glue" to hold the glass together. The glass is what gives a fiberglass composite the strength.


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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote 8122pbrainard Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: October-25-2009 at 10:22am
Originally posted by skfitz skfitz wrote:

Originally posted by SNobsessed SNobsessed wrote:

What Pete didn't emphasize was that plywood typically doesn't come in 14 foot lengths, so there would be a weak spot where you have to overlap the layers.


I think if you built it up from three layers of 1/2" board you wouldn't have to worry about weak spots because they'd be staggered,


Shawn,
Chris is correct you need to rethink the method a little.

First, plywood does not have the same strength if stressed in the same moment as a solid stringer because the plys grain direction alternates every layer. It really isn't made to replace a solid. However, a microlam is! All the plys grain are in the same direction just as a solid is. A microlam can actually handle larger loads because of the tight control of the veneer going into them. (you don't end up with a big knot all the way through!)

Second, the original stringer is a 2x so you would need 3 layers of 1/2" to duplicate the 1&1/2" original. Not even factoring the alternating grain direction of the ply, every place there's a joint, you will end up with only 2/3rds the strength.


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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote form&function Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: October-25-2009 at 12:50pm
Pete,that laminated beam stuff is pretty cool But was under the impression that certain glues used in ply could not be encased because they cure/breath for years.Is this accurate or hearsay?
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote 8122pbrainard Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: October-25-2009 at 2:31pm
Ryan,
I feel you are thinking about the cheaper indoor ply that generally uses the less expensive and not water proof urea-formaldehyde glue. It is know to outgas and is the hot subject now on indoor air quality. Phenolic resins which are the brown/black looking glues are used on exterior plys are very stable. Microlams use them. Even if it did outgas, I don't feel it would harm a CPES treatment. The stuff really does a fantastic job of soaking in to seal the ply and priming it. The CPES has been used for years on the 5200 method of double planking the bottoms of wood boats. The inner planking is typically plywood. I've never heard of a single problem.


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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote form&function Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: October-28-2009 at 1:57am
Shaft had a nick in it so I chucked it up just to be safe.It was very straight so I spun her and buffed the seal area.



The I took the window frame and sprayed it with satin black epoxy paint

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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote form&function Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: October-28-2009 at 2:00am
I marked all the cracks and chips then ground them out.After filling them with resin I sanded the hull smooth with 320.She is getting real close to gellcoat





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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Gary S Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: October-28-2009 at 2:23am
Man Ryan you are making some good time, your making the rest of us look lazy. Impressive tool collection too, but I do think you could use a larger lathe
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote form&function Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: October-30-2009 at 4:36am
gellcoat is a serious pain in the ass

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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote form&function Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: October-30-2009 at 4:39am
Originally posted by Gary S Gary S wrote:

Man Ryan you are making some good time, your making the rest of us look lazy. Impressive tool collection too, but I do think you could use a larger lathe


Gary I assure you my shop is very humble,I am however making very good time
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote WakeSlayer Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: October-30-2009 at 6:41pm
just wow, Ryan.    If you get some spare time.......
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Gary S Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: October-30-2009 at 11:29pm
Originally posted by form&function form&function wrote:


Gary I assure you my shop is very humble,I am however making very good time


Well it got my attention Ryan. I've always wanted a lathe, don't know what I'd do with it but I want one. A small mill would be nice too.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote SN206 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: October-31-2009 at 1:13am
Originally posted by Gary S Gary S wrote:

Originally posted by form&function form&function wrote:


Gary I assure you my shop is very humble,I am however making very good time


Well it got my attention Ryan. I've always wanted a lathe, don't know what I'd do with it but I want one. A small mill would be nice too.


I know a guy in Ardmore, OK thats giving a 9" lathe with tools away if you want it, I just don't have the room right now.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote 8122pbrainard Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: October-31-2009 at 9:03am
Originally posted by Gary S Gary S wrote:

I've always wanted a lathe, don't know what I'd do with it but I want one. A small mill would be nice too.


Gary,
Good used are very plentiful and cheap!. Lots of tool/machine shops out there that have sold off their equipment to used dealers. Check ebay or even keep a eye out in your local classifieds.

We even have 5 or 6 Bridgeport's out in the "graveyard" but there are so many of them available used that they aren't worth anything. (plus they aren't in the greatest shape - lots of hours on them!!)

BTW, no machine tools out in the back in your graveyard? Just horns?


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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote BuffaloBFN Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: October-31-2009 at 9:09am
Originally posted by SN206 SN206 wrote:

I know a guy in Ardmore, OK thats giving a 9" lathe with tools away if you want it, I just don't have the room right now.


Any chance this is what miniature furniture was made on years ago? I could give it a good home.   
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote BuffaloBFN Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: October-31-2009 at 9:11am
Originally posted by 8122pbrainard 8122pbrainard wrote:

Good used are very plentiful and cheap!


I've had an eye out for exactly what Ryan has and haven't found one yet; not close anyway.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote BuffaloBFN Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: October-31-2009 at 9:14am
Ryan, your gel work looks great! Care to share some details on how you sprayed it?
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote uk1979 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: October-31-2009 at 9:49am
Yep Ryan has a big one, some of us just have to use what we have to hand, in my case its not how big but what you can do with it.


Lets have a go
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote eric lavine Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: October-31-2009 at 12:40pm
they make great test stands too.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote SN206 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: October-31-2009 at 1:41pm
Originally posted by BuffaloBFN BuffaloBFN wrote:

Originally posted by SN206 SN206 wrote:

I know a guy in Ardmore, OK thats giving a 9" lathe with tools away if you want it, I just don't have the room right now.


Any chance this is what miniature furniture was made on years ago? I could give it a good home.   


My friend owns a machine shop and says it is a good one, he just dosen't have a need for a small one. Forgot the brand, but it begins with a "S"
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote form&function Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: October-31-2009 at 1:43pm
The lathe is a sixteen foot 1939 american tools that sat as a backup in a machine shop for decades until they went out of business.I guess at some point it was rebuilt because there is no play in the head at all.I can't justify having it with the small cups and occasional drive shaft I build but I am a tool whore so I convinced myself I might need it in the future.Actually I have a tool problem if you want the truth.

About the gellcoat I am not even sure I did it correctly.When I sanded and buffed a small area you could see a faint seperation between the coats which might be normal,I don't know.The reality is that its about as hard as spraying primer and if you have the proper gun and materials anyone can do it.The real work is in the wetsand and buff.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote Gary S Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: October-31-2009 at 1:52pm
Originally posted by SN206 SN206 wrote:

I know a guy in Ardmore, OK thats giving a 9" lathe with tools away if you want it, I just don't have the room right now.

Thanks for the thought, if you were close I'd be there in a heartbeat
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