Show me your garage

62 wood wrote: Eric and Pete, whats this thing you talk of... "inspector"? ... thats part of the reason I live in the country. Ive completely gutted and remodeled our house, with 2 additions, built my new garage, shingled 5 outbuildings, and never had to deal with a permit or inspector. Man life is good in the sticks!

I'm wearing a hard hat when I come to visit yourself and Pam!!!

Eric and Pete, whats this thing you talk of... "inspector"? ... thats part of the reason I live in the country.

Ive completely gutted and remodeled our house, with 2 additions, built my new garage, shingled 5 outbuildings, and never had to deal with a permit or inspector. Man life is good in the sticks!



A quick note on the infloor heat... absolutely one of the best heats ...again as long as you maintain your work temperature. I actually thought about using it and foced air, but costs would have been out of line.

   With my high efficency force air I will say, that having insulated my foundation before pouring the floor, my floor, while not as warm as the infloor heat, is never a cold issue.

I ran a 16" main heat line off the furnace plenum, to a distibution box in the center of the attic. From there 6" lines run out to individual heat runs in the ceiling around the perimeter of the outside walls.

After 6 years...I would do it the same. It works for my situation.

BTW, nice toy box Paul!


.

Heres my new toy box.
40' wide 35' deep two story. Walls sit 2 courses above floor for ease of hoseing off floor.
Ceiling is 12' high with one 16'W x 10'H door and one 12'W x 10'H door.
Heat is radient floor(no cold floor, hot ceiling problems)
The joist are open web truss spaning front to back(no poles)
Second floor is all open space soon to be office and work shop.

Among Pete's other attributes he speaks German too!
I know what you're saying it was me having a blonde moment I guess.

In anticipation of breaking ground this spring for my up north shop, I have been building up components going into the shop.

I don't like pipe clutter so the compressed air supplies are going in the wall. Here's the regulator/quick connect boxes I built up starting with 6x6 pull boxes. They will be flush mounted into the 2x6 walls. The two small boxes are the outlets to high mounted hose reels. Compressed air supplies to each of the regulator boxes will be "home runs" in 1/2" ID pex.



A 6x6x4 box sounds big until you start putting in all the guts. It got a little tight especially the one on the right that has the extra exit that will go through the wall to a outside quick connect.



To eliminate more clutter, the dust collection ducting is going in the attic. Then dropping through to blast gates at the ceiling. The majority of the equipment is on mobile bases which gives me more shop layout flexibility but, I needed a means of quick connecting the duct at the ceiling. Move equipment to the side, take down the dust ducting and you have a clear area. This is one of the quick turn and lock blast gates I'm in the process of building. The bottom of the 5' section of spiral pipe has handles so the it's inserted into the blast gate and locked without the need of a ladder. The blast gate is opened with a slotted end broom stick.



Two of the dust drops are close to the wall (floor sweep and compound miter) but being close to the underside of the roof needed some special elbows to clear and match the 12/5 roof pitch just above the ceiling. Since no one makes 22.5 and 67.5 long radius elbows, I had to start with 90's, cut at the needed angles and weld collars to the cut ends.





With the exception of the two "W" beams at the ceiling, keeping the ceiling clutter down helps tremendously with even light distribution. I'm shooting for 150cp per sq. ft. at max light (3 light levels) using T5 HO's. T5's are the latest and greatest - they are replacing HID industrial fixtures!!! More light and 1/2 the power!

BTW, the shop is getting a bathroom.

Steve is absolutely correct regarding the thermal lag on the hydronic in slab heat. It's the only down side so just like he said, it's not good for quickly bringing up shop temps. Figure on a couple hours for a delta T of 20.

WakeSlayer wrote: I have a phone line run to my building and used to be able to get internet access, however, the wire broke underground and the bastard phone company wants $1500 to fix it...   Not worth it in my opinion.

hmmm- I need a floor pan,you need some wiring, springtime road trip?

peter1234 wrote: slant the floor for drainage and rinsing

In cold areas you need to be real careful with pitching the floor especially if you don't have heat in the floor. Due to zoning restrictions in certain areas, floor drains may not be allowed. (The fear is gas going down the sewer) So, the normal garage floor pitch is out the garage OH door. If it's cold outside and water is running to the door, I've seen the door bottom seals frozen to the floor!! You also do not want a garage floor drain running to a septic system. Drain trenches just in front of the OH door is a partial answer but they may need to go to a "French" drain. Again that may not be allowed in certain areas plus French drains can freeze up too.

Speaking of heat in the floor again, make sure your expansion joint between the garage slab and the apron is directly below the OH door(s). You need it to act as a thermal break at this point too.

Pete
Ok I seemed to have missed that part .



From my experienc of building a house with attic trusses, my lower cord was a 2x10 anyway . so your beam does not need to stick up into your floor space .

Gary S wrote: WakeSlayer wrote: I have a phone line run to my building and used to be able to get internet access, however, the wire broke underground and the bastard phone company wants $1500 to fix it...   Not worth it in my opinion. Mike, how far is your building from the house? Does the electric feed come from the house also? You have DSL service? There might be a way to get your internet out there- Plug link Let me know

Gary and Alan,

Wireless won't reach far enough, nor work very well through the tin walls. Unfortunately, for this instance, it is 800-900 feet. I bought the wire for the phone and the power and trenched it in 5 years ago. I had phone and DSL back there for about two years and then it failed. The phone company claimed that I had been sold crappy wire, which broke, and they wanted $1500 to replace it. I have not tried to hook it up with the other wires (that may well be intact) but after last winter wishing I had access constantly, I may try it.

edit:   electric service comes from the pole, not my house.

C-Bass wrote: Right now I'm planning on a 28'deep x 36'wide garage with a 9' door and a 16' door. Roof will be attic trusses to give me storage over the whole 36' length.

Concerning the beam going above the ceiling , If I am understanding you right , you will need a different way of construction because of the interference of the beam with the bottom cord of your truss. This in turn will take more time and money.

A friend of mine just built a new house and has the floor heated in the garage. Some how it uses a standard hot water heater.He had the driveway plumbed also but had to have the concrete redone and didn't have time to redo the pipeing.

Craig,
Now with Tim's structure is when you would really need the services of a structural engineer!! Even if you only have the basic inspections in your area, they would demand it!

C-Bass wrote: Are you saying the 5" to 6" so the drywall would run right up to the web? I think this is what you meant in the previous post about leaving the clearance for the trolley...that makes sense and I think it would look nice. As for the cap plates, this would only interfere if the beam spanned into the wall. If it stops right at the wall, this wouldn't matter, if I'm thinking correctly. I have not given much though as to what the supports will be for the beam. Any ideas? The cleanest look would be to have the support be in-between the studs that way you could drywall over it. Now that I think about it, this is the situation where it would interfere with the cap plate.

Craig,
Yes, the drywall then runs right up to the web. Metal tabs are welded to the web every 4' so a 2x4 drywall nailer can be screwed on to the length of the beam.

A 4x6 post IN the wall is the cleanest and yes, this is when the cap plates are interrupted. If it's not in the wall then the posts being inside will actually take away from the 32' depth. You then also need to tie it to the wall someway - it needs the lateral support keeping the post plumb. If you want the beam centered in the OH door, then of course you can't put a post there!

BTW, I'm giving you all my design tricks/solutions for my up north shop that I plan to build this spring!! (that's of course if CQ gets going on converting my old fashioned pencil drawings to CAD!!!!) I've got 4 pages of specs ready for bid packages and 3 contractors lined up.

Here is a side cut of what it looks like:


Just guesses on the measurements.

It really just depends on your needs. A trolley system gives you the flexibility to move things around after they are hung but a beam in the attic will be fine for lifting Pete's 8,000 lb boat straight up.