Show me your garage

I just had a new roof put on the house and garage. I guess with the building boom over in my area, they must have let go on the inspectors or kept one for major jobs, because my contractor was to take pictures and take them over to the village hall ?? How would you know the pictures were of the job your now on ?

[QUOTE=8122pbrainard] Roger,
The collector I've picked out is a direct drive 5HP. It's going into the utility room along with the boiler, on demand HWH, air compressor, compressed air drier and heat recovery ventilation unit for the shop. A 24" x 24" return duct with a filter grill will get the collection air back to the shop. I feel it's going to be pretty quite but I plan on lining the return duct with the egg crate type sound absorbing sponge.

Pete

I found a lot depends on how well the fan is balanced, if it doesn't come with vibro pads it sit on, it may be worth a look round where you work for some off an old machine, and yes the stick on foam works well we have two filter bag systems here because of the mdf dust we make they have a return air gate for the winter.

8122pbrainard wrote: Roger, The cyclone I've chosen is a Oneida brand. I have a friend who has one so I've heard them run and they are quite for a collector. No vibration because they do balance there impellers. With any blower, most of the noise is from the high tip speed of the impeller so most of the noise comes out with the exhausted air but they use a backward inclined which adds to a low Db. The Oneida isn't a bag unit but rather has a large pleated canister type filter (permanent/cleanable) so I feel the filter itself provides quite a Db reduction plus they have a silencer internal of the filter. Oneida air On the suction side, I feel the duct work being in the attic and insulated will really knock down most of the noise from that end. It should end up being a very quiet running system. I've got a good source for vibro mounts just in case!

Pete

Looks a good home set up you have there,I think the picture shows it has rubber bungs on the legs,I would be interested what you think of it when its up and running.

8122pbrainard wrote: Roger, So you feel it's a "home" unit? The thing is 9' tall!! I don't feel 1400CFM at 6.5" of vacuum is all that bad and that's with the filter!! That's enough to run a planer, jointer and table saw at the same time. I figured the 3 pieces running just in case there would be two people in the shop at one time. (I might need a helper to push my wheel chair around!!) I'm not building a bag house here!! The stand is optional. I'm going with the wall mount bracket that comes with it. It opens up the access to the 55 gal drum plus it's substantially built.

Pete

Believe me you can never have enough suck!! just pulling your chain its a nice bit of kit you soon get your own back working on floatation on the SN sea and fresh water so easy on the red pen and see me stickers when I post.

emccallum wrote: Glad I dont live in the cold! You guys sure spend a ton of time and dough on heating. I have a ten gallon or so propane tank. Last me about two years!

Ernest,
My AC costs me more per month than my heating! I don't feel the area I live in even comes close to the AC needs of the southern areas.
Natural gas last January: $93
Electric last August: $235

Wow...gone 4 days for the holidays and missed out on 3 pages of garage discussion. Lots of good info to take into consideration guys. Much appreciated .

8122pbrainard wrote: A 4x6 post IN the wall is the cleanest and yes, this is when the cap plates are interrupted. If it's not in the wall then the posts being inside will actually take away from the 32' depth. You then also need to tie it to the wall someway - it needs the lateral support keeping the post plumb. If you want the beam centered in the OH door, then of course you can't put a post there! BTW, I'm giving you all my design tricks/solutions for my up north shop that I plan to build this spring!! (that's of course if CQ gets going on converting my old fashioned pencil drawings to CAD!!!!) I've got 4 pages of specs ready for bid packages and 3 contractors lined up.

Pete, if you don't mind spilling some more secrets...I'm real interested in the 4x6 wood column and W-beam connection. I know Simpson Strong-tie makes all sorts of connectors for wood to steel beam connections, but most I find are for a wood truss sitting on a steel column.

I think the tie-in to the surrounding wall will be pretty straight forward and could be accomplished a number of different ways.

And to clear things up a bit, I do plan on having the beam in between the garage doors, this way I won't have to worry about any door clearance issues while something is hanging from the beam.

OK, my new garage. 28'D x 32'W. I am limited by homeowners assn. Floor is 2" high density foam, foil bubble wrap stuff instead of Visqueen. Tubed, 5" slab, extra rebar through out. 2 9x9 OH doors, insulated. Scissor truss roof. 10' walls about 13'6" in the center. Ridge vented. 100a service, no running water. Wired for in ceiling speakers.

Should have done high lift doors.

Stuffing R30 in the ceiling, R13 in the walls. Level floor except the last foot by OH doors. Not too sure what Im sheetin the walls with inside yet. I was thinking OSB on all. Covered with FRP in end bay. Planning on a 4 post lift.

Pete, watch useing std pex for airline. I run about 150psi and pex has a low burst rating. I'm going to use DOT approved airline. You can find it actually quite easily, and inexpensively. Suicidedoors.com AirBagIt.com and some others. Actually Form and Function would probably have a few other places to recommend as well.
What manufacturer are you going with for tankless? I've had real good luck with all of the Takagi installs. Some of which are used solely for space heating, I go annually for maintainence on all.
I've used Triangle Tube, Buderus, and Weil McClain condensing boilers as well.
I'm putting a Navien in my house this weekend. It has an internal recirc, condensing, and PVC flue. I've only got 3 other Navien installs under my belt, but I like everything I've seen so far.
One other system we have been useing lately for additions where slab heating is being added, is the new Taco heat exchanger. It's 2 modulating pumps in a self contained little package. We only use this where we feel they already have the hot water capacity (2 water heaters). Easy to use/install and very clean looking.
You could also use an indirect water heater, fed by your boiler.

I'll stop now.

Andy wrote: Pete, watch useing std pex for airline. What manufacturer are you going with for tankless? I've had real good luck with all of the Takagi installs. Some of which are used solely for space heating, I go annually for maintainence on all. I've used Triangle Tube, Buderus, and Weil McClain condensing boilers as well. I'm putting a Navien in my house this weekend. It has an internal recirc, condensing, and PVC flue. I've only got 3 other Navien installs under my belt, but I like everything I've seen so far. One other system we have been useing lately for additions where slab heating is being added, is the new Taco heat exchanger. It's 2 modulating pumps in a self contained little package. We only use this where we feel they already have the hot water capacity (2 water heaters). Easy to use/install and very clean looking. You could also use an indirect water heater, fed by your boiler.

Andy,
I just abbreviated the air line tubing to "Pex". What I have chosen isn't the pipe sized type used for water/hydronic but a tube sized rated at 220 psi working pressure.

I did spec in a W/M Ultra but am looking at others too. I also what to listen to what the local heating contractors have to say. I think the Ultra has a recirc pump for the primary loop as well. I'll check it out.

With the hot water, I haven't really looked at many of the tankless brands very much. I want to hear what the contractors have to say. The side arm HWH indirect is a option I've already put in my spec sheet. For one bathroom it may be more than needed. (It's going in the house addition though!) A efficiency comparison between running the boiler all summer for the hot water and a less efficient on demand would be interesting. The tankless will be within 10' of the lav and directly behind the shower so the circ pump really isn't needed.

I'll take a look at the Taco - sounds interesting! Is it for HW or a hydronic zone loop control?

Thanks

Peter,
Thanks for the input. I am on well water and in a bad area as far as high iron content. I do plan on utilizing a premix antifreeze in the hydronic heat system just in case the shop needs to be drained so well water won't affect it. The water supply will be from the house so I can drain/blow back to it's basement. Even though the water is conditioned for iron removal, sounds like what you're saying is it could still be hard on a wall mounted instant tankless domestic hot water system. What happens with them on hard water? Heat exchanger "plate out" with the high delta T? If so, guess I should lean towards the indirect.

There are a couple things i learned about insulation while remodeling my house and turning an old chicken coup into a shop.

We used spray on foam in the house, just a coating to stop drafts etc and then they filled the rest with 6" bats. Very cost effective, warm etc. The company, Momper insulation did it for less than i could buy the bats.

in the coup I tried something different and a little cheaper. The standars old gray blow in celulose style they now mix with a binder, fill the cavity and trim off the extra with a spinning paint roller looking devise. Fast, full and cheaper. we cant do either of these in the industrial buildings but it was neat to experiment with the different types.

If you can find out who most of the builders in the area used you might be able to afford a little more than you might think.

Sean

Pete,
Agreed , fiberglass insulation is probably most cost affective...but installation is the key. I always do mine myself, no one else to blame that way. Ive seen too many jobs where a guy is just pushing the insulatuion between studs with no regard to "fluffing' it up for the max R value, or making sure it even fits the opening correctly.

Another thing...dont forget to caulk,or otherwise seal any of the holes where wiring is drilled thru plates into an unheated area,...ie attic, etc.

I have also cut 1" (or what ever thickness is needed to fill the area) blue or pink styrofoam blocks and glue to the walls immediately behind electrical boxes on exterior walls.

AND lastly dont forget....CABINETS...LOTS of CABINETS!


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Pete,
Was it that obvious?


Actually, I think your original plans will probably do just fine!

The contract was let out Sunday. This step number one was yesterday!!



And, the contrator does have the correct set of prints!!!

Craig,
My general will be going in for the permit for me which is great as I really don't want to drive 300 miles to deal with the bureaucracy plus he's got all the connections!! This one will be the easy one as well. No UBC requirements and no UBC inspection process. All the county wants is a plot plan showing the location and a floor plan showing the size. They didn't even want the current survey!! They said the one (20 years old because they are a "little" behind on updating their records) on file is good enough!

When I get to the house addition then it may be a different story??