FCT tower project!!

nau7iqu9 wrote: Pete, this will probably be more descriptive

Sure looks like the platform has been moved up on the transom for some reason. Wet foam so it was under water??

To plug old holes, the inside is filled with resin and the outside filled with gelcoat. Sanded flush and buffed out.

Pete, this will probably be more descriptive

3M makes a pin stripe eraser, it's a 1/2 X 4in. wheel you chuck in a drill. It dosen't harm the substreight under vinyl stripes on cars. Thou I haven't tried it on sealant, I think it would work. A fiberglass scraper will work. I don't want to tell you to use a putty knife but if you do be REAL CAREFUL.

Pete, Would using epoxy be sufficient when refastening a platform bolt?

I agree on removing the platform I'm planning on leaving it attached until most of the top and sides are sanded so I can put a little more elbow into it. I also want to polish the supports like I did my mirror brackets. It looks like theres a combination of sealants built up around mounting points any suggestions on removing them safely from the gel?

Umm maybe its just me. If someone brought me something in tube and I had to cut and splice it, I'd probably just sleeve it and not worry. A butt probably isn't the best solution, structurally. I'm just sayin'. Then you could sand it smooth and never see it.

Thanks Guys
Sunday's progress..

Polished and repainted mirror/round 1 of many on my platform

Don't confuse tubing with pipe. Tubing is traditionally thin wall, and pipe is thicker. Tube is also typically traditional in OD; 1/2", 3/4", 1", etc., where pipe is oddball in OD and comes in either schedule 40 or schedule 80.

Wall thickness on tubing probably doesn't get heavier than 1/16" or maybe 1/8". Pipe wall is typically thicker than 1/8".

My tower was made from aluminum sch 40 pipe (OD = 1.900" which is 1 1/2" pipe).

Your Gen 1 FCT tower might be made from tubing rather than pipe, I just don't know. If you have a set of calipers or micrometer, measure the OD.

As for the alloy, I'd bet 6061.

I agree with bkhallpass, I think cutting 4" or so out of the top & re-shaping the legs would probably do it.

From my experience, cut off the mounting feet, and re-weld them to fit the shape of the deck of your boat perfectly.

My $0.02.

Glen

Waterdog wrote: 6061 is a good choice how about 5052 ?

The 5052 may not be the greatest choice. It's forming and working is better but thats because it's yield strength and hardness is lower than the 6061. The biggest problem is you may find it's not available in many tubing sizes. It's typically used for small dia. soft tube applications

6061 is a good choice how about 5052 ?

nau7iqu9 wrote: Pete, Any idea what alloy CC used for my fct1 in case i need some tubing?

I don't know what was used originally but I can take a good guess at it. 6061 is available in tube, would give you the weldability needed, a decent yield strength, mid range hardness and still be a alloy that can be bend without too much of a problem (with proper equipment/mandrels). It's corrosion resistance isn't as good as some others but still very good. If it was around salt water, it would need anodizing.

99 Air, now essentially a Sport

Shaun,
Keep the pics coming as the project proceeds. You got a deal, I got a tower off my boat and cash, win win. See you around this summer.

Kurt

malibud wrote: If you use aluminum you have to get the right gauge I think it 4000.

4000 what? Gauge?

Are you referring to a 4000 alloy?

Just for everyone's information if someone is thinking of fabrication, a 4032 aluminum is:
Medium hard, is just under the half way point of all aluminum's in yield strength, not a alloy that is recommended for welding, has fair corrosion resistance, very poor forming and workability qualities but does machine well.

Thanks Glen, I was trying to find a 2nd gen fct, but this was a deal I couldn't pass up.