1974 Stringer Repair

Cslaten33 wrote: Where can I find a later 70's hood scoop?

Clark,
You're asking for a "later 70's" hood scoop? Do you mean the wider flatter version used on 77's and 78's that were upholstered? Your 74 has the taller narrower one. Ether way, both were to my knowledge made by CC and the mold is long gone. Your best bet is to post in the "parts wanted" section and see if something turns up. Many have resorted to pulling their own mold off a good vent and then laying up new ones.

Why do you want to change the one you have?

Do you have a picture of the scoop you are trying to match? I have a mold for the rear scoop but have not had the time to make any yet. Is what you have usable to make a mold from?

Frank

Yes I am wanting the wider and flatter scoop. The scoop on my boat looks as if someone stepped on it at one time. There is a pretty good crack in the front. Nothing a little fiberglass cant fix. I think the 77-78 scoop loks alot better.

Yeah If anyone wanted to make one and send it to me. Just call me up and let me know how much money you need. 918-629-8104

Cslaten33@msn.com

Yes he would.

Yes I think it is the same hood as the 73 skier. I would ask Pete Brainard. He seems to know everything about theses boats.

Thanks Clark Slaten

Yes its the same. Are you swapping out the rear scoops to match the front as well? I crushed one of my rear ones, so if youre switching those too, please let me know!

Really all I need is a rear one too, but could not hurt to have an extra front one. If you find the ones you want maybe you, Tim and I could meet for lunch one day in a central location like... Nashville and have a scoop swap.

How many layers of cloth fiber do I need to use for my stringer repair?

Clark,

Pete steered you in the right direction. Read through those threads to get some ideas. I read through those and also hit a couple other forums when putting together my plans. I've mimiced a lot of what I saw done on other Supras. I think you'll benefit more from mimicing what you see on here.

I kind of like the idea of tape across the bottom at an angle...several layers, then one layer of biaxial or a couple of cloth to encapsulate the entire stringer. Seems like that could be a bit easier than the method I'm using.

Okie Boarder wrote: I kind of like the idea of tape across the bottom at an angle...several layers, then one layer of biaxial or a couple of cloth to encapsulate the entire stringer. Seems like that could be a bit easier than the method I'm using.

This was an interesting idea, but I dont think its better or stronger than laying the tape in the same direction of the stringer. Fewer cuts in the fabric should lead to a stronger layup. It will also be a lot more labor intensive with all those short pieces laid on an angle. If there was a reason to orient the fibers at 45 degrees, then this method would be great- but it seems to me you primarily want the strength in the up/down and fore/aft directions. If you were to lay the biax tape last, that has a layer of cloth in it with the weave at 45 degrees, and the mat layer gives strength in all directions- so that rounds out the buildup nicely.

So about three to four layers at the bottom and a couple of layers over the top. Thanks guys. I will get back with some pictures when Oklahoma gets some decent weather.

I believe that laying the biaxial on an angle would be much stronger as the load, both perpendicular and parallel to the stringers, will be transferred to two pieces of strand in lieu of just one. I don't now if I am going to do it though as it is a lot of extra work. I am thinking about two 3" pieces offset about an inch with one 6" cover.

Frank     

FrankT wrote: I believe that laying the biaxial on an angle would be much stronger as the load, both perpendicular and parallel to the stringers, will be transferred to two pieces of strand in lieu of just one. I don't now if I am going to do it though as it is a lot of extra work. I am thinking about two 3" pieces offset about an inch with one 6" cover. Frank

From my understanding biaxial is already strong in all directions given the variety of materials sandwiched together. That is why it is used. Cutting it into smaller pieces so that the load bears on 2 pieces instead of 1 may actually give you less strength than one continuous piece.

I orders Friday to see if I could get it by Friday.