73 Skier Restoration

I was ready to get out there today and get going. I have my tyvek suits, new respirator cartridges, it was not raining or freezing(but close) and a plan of attack. With all of today's activities I only got one hour to set up, work and break down. Better than 0 hours I thought so I got out there and removed my very first stringer! Starboard secondary. It was rotted all to hell and will not be usable for a template. Bummer! But I already knew that.

Here is a funny story. I blew the fuse on the circuit I was using running the shop vac, grinder and a space heater that was on inside. So I go and turn off the heater, flip the breaker and remember that I did not turn the grinder off. So I run out there to find that the spindle lock had engaged when I set it down and the grinder is smoking like a freight train. I let it cool down and then went right back to work with it. Right as I got to the end of the stringer the grinder died on me. Bought it at harbor freight so I can just go get another one, but they come with an extra set of brushes. I put those in and it runs like a champ again!

Not bad for an hours work considering the interruption!

Hasbeenskier gashed his leg with a grinder. Can't recall how it happened. Seem to remember conversation about ruining a brand new set of jeans. BKH

Few more hours today. Got all the starboard stringers out. I was excited and feel like I have reached a milestone in my project. No doubt I will be able to remove the ports a lot faster. The sawzall blades I have tried so far have not worked well on the fiberglass. The ones I used today were Fast cut for wood and pvc. Any suggestions on which blades butter through fiberglass? The grinder with the diamond wheel has been the fastest at getting through the glass for me so far.

Here is where I started today. All the foam from last night had to be cleaned up before I got started.



This 73 skier has a different secondary layup than the later model 16's. Notice how thick the layup is.



This where the laminated secondaries will go. I have a lot of grinding to do to get that flat enough for the newer layout. From Monty Pythin's "How much grindin do you have to do?" "A lot!"



Here is how I left it this evening.

A fine toothed metal blade? I am thinking that the fine teeth must be the ticket. The diamond wheel has no teeth, just grooves. The fast cut I was using had big teeth and worked about as well as a plastic knife when it came to those thick parts.

Thanks I will look into those blades too.

I am back on the steering wheel problem. While I did get it off of the dash, I really need to get the whole thing apart now so that I can paint the assembly and I got some buffing wheels and compound to clean up the wheel.

We had a lot of discussion on what kind of puller to use to pop the wheel off of the tapered shaft. I thought I had a breakthrough in the pictures below thinking that the arrows were pointing to potential tap holes. There are 4 holes though, and from my understanding most of the pullers have 3. Is an arm puller looking like the only option?



This is what I have right now.



Here is the rear view



Another view of the front. Hard to see in this picture but the shaft is threaded on this end too.

Keegan,
Sorry to see the "tapped holes" turned out to be the socket head cap screws holding the shaft bearing housing onto the dash angle plate!

A small 3 arm puller may be able to fit back through the center and grab the hub but looks like the arms will then be pulling on the plasic portion of the wheel. Don't want to do that! I don't feel it's going to take much force to pull the wheel but I also don't want you to end up with a bunch of broken plastic?

Does it look like you could get the shaft out of the bearing housing and then end up with just the shaft and wheel? I'm thinking if the shaft will come out, it would give you a clear shot at the backside of the metal hub, a block of wood and light hammer blows.

If not, then it's back to the 3 arm but with some metal under the arms so you'll be pulling on the metal hub and not the plastic.

Keegan,
Chris has got a good idea but I want to make sure you're supporting the metal hub. A couple pieces of flat bar under the wheel close to the shaft.

BTW, I know for fact that Kroil is by far superior to PB Blaster. I've used both. Kroil is only available on line so I ended up grabbing a can of the PB. Then ended up waiting for the Kroil to come in because the PB didn't work. I really don't feel I would have been able to get the 27 Universal apart without the Kroil.

Pete that tool will support the backside of the wheel where ther is actually metal. Basicly take the halves apart slide it with the flat side up, one side will have counterbores on it the other doesn't. Place it between the wheel and the hub, now rest the seperator on top of an open vise or press if you have one with the hub and helm pieces hanging below the seperator. Have someone there to hold/catch the helm pieces and shaft for when it breakes free.

The seperator is a slip fit so to say, you just want to get it close to the shaft diameter but still allowing it to slide freely it's only to support the back of the wheel's hub where there is actually metel while your hitting the shaft. Just be sure it doesn't hit the floor and damage something.

Wow I made way too big a deal out of that! I just rested the edge of the dash plate on the edge of my work bench and tapped the shaft out with a small finishing hammer.

I tryed to tell ya earlier. Hammer and brass punch,

DrCC wrote: I tryed to tell ya earlier. Hammer and brass punch,

Yep would have worked fine. Live and learn. I did not fully understand how it was on there so I was leery of doing anything after so many ideas were presented.

This whole project is like that. After you have done it, none of it is that difficult. Except putting the new hoses on the exhaust. Can't wait till that day!

DrCC wrote: I,ve got a trick for that too.

I am always open to tricks. Please do tell!

79nautique wrote: Pete that tool will support the backside of the wheel where ther is actually metal.

Chris,
I've pulled a few bearings with a bearing separator! Keegan being on a budget is why I suggested a couple pieces of flat bar to support the hub.

Keegan,
Glad you got it off. One time when something goes real easy. Usually it's the other way around!!!

critter wrote: Keeganino wrote: After you have done it, none of it is that difficult. Except putting the new hoses on the exhaust. Can't wait till that day! Exhaust is easy too, just put some dishwashing liquid on the inside edge of the hose. Not much, just a film and they will slide right on.

Its not the actual mating thats a PITA, its getting the corrugated hose lined up with the riser outlets! Definitely a 2-man job.

Exhaust hose      1/3 of the way up, on the exposed.   Tie it back to the lift ring.    All that's left to muscle, is the pushing down to line-up.   Loosen the line to push on.

Also any hose connections below the waterline. "Double Clamp"