Manifold Gaskets?

I was wondering when should you have your manifold gaskets serviced? I was talking to someone on this, said that it could be possible for them to rust due to water staying in the manifolds. And then water can eventually after a while if not serviced, water can shoot into the engine, and not out the exhaust where it needs to go. I was told too, that to see if, you pull the 2 spark plugs in the middle of each side, and see water, you could then see your manifold gaskets need to be replaced.What is the deal on this?   

Im guessing he's talking about manifold riser gaskets. Yes, those should be replaced if they show any signs of leaking as they can lead to the problems you described.

TRBenj wrote: Im guessing he's talking about manifold riser gaskets. Yes, those should be replaced if they show any signs of leaking as they can lead to the problems you described.

TR,
Yes sir, thats the part. By looking at the manifolds, if you see water rust lines, then they are do.

TR,
Ok, i will check those. thanks

they need to be sanded all the way down to the metal and flat, correct. Then place the new gasket on top and place manifold back on.

79nautique wrote: For reference the front passage is blocked off when you install the new riser gaskets.

Uh, I dont think so. SkiDIM says to block of the back (outlet side).

http://skidim.com/products.asp?dept=1109

Makes sense, as the outlet side is lower and would be the path of least resistance- so the top wouldnt get sufficient flow. By blocking it, water is forced to the top of the riser and allowed to spill down.

That makes since... I will work on mine this weekend. I will use a leveler to make sure both ends are flat and even.

Lee
when addressing this task, you might end up with some broken bolts, specially the back ones that are longer(at least they are in mine). They tend to rust and freeze in there and when unbolting them then break, It hapenned to me.
squirt some PB blaster and hit them with a hammer to loosen them, and then unbolt them slowly.

If I was you I would save that couple 100 and order the gaskets and do it yourself, it's a very simple job. The hardest part is getting the exhaust hose off and you don't actually have to remove it but it is much easier if you do.

You'll need a box end wrench, the thinner it's wall is the better, to get the bolts out, a putty knife/gasket scraper to remove the gasket and a striaght edge and sanding block and paper to square it up if it needs it. Once you get it loose then you can use the open end part of the wrench you run the risk of rounding off the head if you start with the open end first then it's a real bear to remove if that happens, so be sure and have a good quality box end wrench to use.

But all you have to do is soak the bolt heads with PB balster or simular liquid wrench type oil, spray the gap too. Then remove the four bolts attaching the riser to the mainfold. If a bolt is being stuborn go slow and respray the bolt with the PB blaster ever turn or so to help it along and to prevent breakage. It takes a little time because you can only get a half turn or so out of it due to no space to swing the wrench much further so don't be in a hurry.

Chris and Andy,
Yes sir thanks a bunch for that info. I will use it this weekend. I am getting those new gaskets tom, and will do the job saturday morning. PB Blaster i guess you can get at any marine store or hardware store?

As Pete pointed out the wrench makes a hugh difference on this job the standard Craftsman wrench won't work usually because there's too much metal on the wrench. They do carry a proffessional grade wrench and by the looks of it it should work fine and you do want a 12pt too. I have snap-on wrenchs and they'll work fine, matco's too. I would start with what you have and see if the wrench fits squarely on the bolt head on all four bolts on both sides and if it does then your good if not then you'll see what we are refering too with a clearance issue. i don't remember but I beleive you can get a couple of them off with a socket but maybe not it's been some time since i took one apart.

i think i have a 6 but not a 12..

Lee,
If you do have a 6 point, see if it will fit and use it at least to break the bolt loose. I wouldn't say they are difficult to find but yes harder to find. Chris is correct that the 12 point is more common.

Steve, Good Question?!
ok, i will see if i can find a 12 pt wrench some place, chris said sears.. I hope they got one..

skicat2001 wrote: Steve, Good Question?! ok, i will see if i can find a 12 pt wrench some place, chris said sears.. I hope they got one..

just make sure it's the professional model look at it online first so you know what the two look like, the one you want is polished and not a rough cast looking wrench which is the standard Craftsman wrench