Manifold Gaskets?

skicat2001 wrote: How bout these? http://home.pronto.com/mpm/pa-12-pt-wrench/aq-_SIZE_12-_USIZE_point_pint_port-_HN_wrench/c-v1_11_107_670?adid=s10-173-6037-10_gs

the kleins are junk not sure on the other they might be ok but hard to tell with out looking at them. The wall thickness on the round box end part of the wrench is what your looking at and the thinner the better.

hey tull, get some pictures while you do the job!!!
they´ll rise up the interest of the thread!! more if comming from a BBC ...
kapla

skicat2001 wrote:    looking for a more thicker wrench. so if I can recall,

wrong you want a thinner wall for this application. Thicker is going to get you into trouble and not allow the wrench to fit on the hex because it'll hit the casting.

Worked on the boat yesterday afternoon.. I apperciate the great advice you guys gave me on this job. I performed it correctly, and had no problems repairing. It makes it easy when you have the right tools.. Now just waiting on gaskets to get here, and finish getting those rust stains off.. Thanks guys!!

Chris,
Yea bolts where pretty easy on coming out. I bought the boat in 05, it must have been done then before I got the boat. The hard part was taking the exhaust hoses off.. They made me feel like that.. lol Saturday I will have the new gasket and put back toghter. So you are saying, when I put back toghter, do not tighten all bolts down, and check the threads. Should I spray w-d-40 for preventive rust again. Or something else my friend...

Chris,
Yea they came with a kit I bought from Houston Water Sports. The bolts that came with the kit where not stainless steel though.. If I need too, I can find those pretty easily..

Lee,
There's nothing really wrong with a decent grade of carbon steel bolt as long as you get some never-seize on the threads and they are a grade 5 or better. Actually, I would prefer a grade 5 (or 8) carbon over the stainless just because of their stength. A grade 5 has a tensile of 120,000 psi whereas a 18-8 or 316 grade of stainless is only 70,000 psi. I've broken too many stainless bolts to know that you only want to use them in bad corrosive environments.

Check the heads of the bolts that came with your kit. A grade 5 will have 3 radial slashes/ribs on it. A grade 8 will have 6. If they have no marks on the head, they are a grade 2 and you'll want to through those out!

BTW, give the WD40 to your wife to use around the house on things like a squeeky hinge. It's not the greatest stuff around and more "hype" than anything. Most of it evaporates leaving you with nothing! (that hinge will squeek again Too!!)

8122pbrainard wrote: Check the heads of the bolts that came with your kit. A grade 5 will have 3 radial slashes/ribs on it. A grade 8 will have 6. If they have no marks on the head, they are a grade 2 and you'll want to through those out!

hey pete by any chance you got a picture of the menctioned marks the bolts should have to identify them?

Saturday morning went poking around through my nuts and bolt collection, and if hot damb if I didnt find a grade 5 bolt to finish my manifolds and gaskets job. I was pleased, and finished the job late saturday night. My boat is ready to go, all winter projects are done.. Thanks guys.. After seeing those pics at the St John Run over the weekend, I am ready put mine in the water.. O yea, almost done with winter projects, got to finish sanding my platform and teak oil it. Do that this weekend.

kapla wrote: thanks pete now are those marks standarized or universal, or every bolt maker put its own marking?

They are standard SAE markings for the inch system. Every graded hex head cap screw will have them. However, if no markings, then they will be a grade 2 (or lower) - fine for general use when strength isn't important.

Metrics have different markings.