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Manifold Gaskets?

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kapla View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote kapla Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: February-17-2010 at 6:06pm
When were the riser changed was it 90 or 91? newer style have the bolts on top of the riser which makes them easier to remove..but the back ones are to long and thin that eventually if the rust they can break...
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote 79nautique Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: February-17-2010 at 6:12pm
Originally posted by skicat2001 skicat2001 wrote:

How bout these?

http://home.pronto.com/mpm/pa-12-pt-wrench/aq-_SIZE_12-_USIZE_point_pint_port-_HN_wrench/c-v1_11_107_670?adid=s10-173-6037-10_gs


the kleins are junk not sure on the other they might be ok but hard to tell with out looking at them. The wall thickness on the round box end part of the wrench is what your looking at and the thinner the better.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote tullfooter Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: February-17-2010 at 7:12pm
After reading this thread, I ordered a set of riser gaskets this morning. I've seen the light rust streaking down the sides of the manifolds, but didn't see any signs of actual leaking. It doesn't seem like a difficult task, so what the heck. I haven't seen my boat for over a month, so this gives me an excuse to make a visit (she's 8 miles away, in my brother's garage). I should be al set with the wrench choices. I think our companies mechanic has more Snap-On tools, than the Snap-On truck that visits.
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kapla View Drop Down
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote kapla Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: February-17-2010 at 7:15pm
hey tull, get some pictures while you do the job!!!
they´ll rise up the interest of the thread!! more if comming from a BBC ...
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote skicat2001 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: February-17-2010 at 7:28pm
Originally posted by 79nautique 79nautique wrote:

Originally posted by skicat2001 skicat2001 wrote:

How bout these?

http://home.pronto.com/mpm/pa-12-pt-wrench/aq-_SIZE_12-_USIZE_point_pint_port-_HN_wrench/c-v1_11_107_670?adid=s10-173-6037-10_gs


the kleins are junk not sure on the other they might be ok but hard to tell with out looking at them. The wall thickness on the round box end part of the wrench is what your looking at and the thinner the better.

Ok, i will stay away from kleinns then.. looking for a more thicker wrench. so if I can recall, on these 85 nautiques, there is 4 bolts, right.. 2 n front, and 2 n rear. Loosen all, pull exhaust manifold off, lift and then be carefull with rear bolts because the way they are attached or connected. Then manifold risers and gaskets come off, clean, replace and then put back.. Correct! :)
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote 79nautique Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: February-18-2010 at 2:56pm
Originally posted by skicat2001 skicat2001 wrote:

   looking for a more thicker wrench. so if I can recall,


wrong you want a thinner wall for this application. Thicker is going to get you into trouble and not allow the wrench to fit on the hex because it'll hit the casting.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote DrCC Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: February-18-2010 at 4:32pm
Don't totally freak out when you see these streaks.
This is an area where hot and cold come together.
Condensation + cast iron.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote skicat2001 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: February-19-2010 at 3:20pm
Worked on the boat yesterday afternoon.. I apperciate the great advice you guys gave me on this job. I performed it correctly, and had no problems repairing. It makes it easy when you have the right tools.. Now just waiting on gaskets to get here, and finish getting those rust stains off.. Thanks guys!!
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote 79nautique Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: February-19-2010 at 4:44pm
don't tighten the bolts dowm all of the way untill you have them all started and ran down pretty close leave a couple threads so that you can move the riser around a little if you have a clearance issue with the wrench. It doesn't hurt to use a little hy-tac to help hold the gasket in place and running a bolt or two through opposite corners on the riser to aid alignment when your going back together.

Now if all of the bolts came out fairly easily then just use new bolts going back in and your good. But if a couple where a little tight chase the threads before you install the new bolts to clean up the threads.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote skicat2001 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: February-19-2010 at 4:56pm
Chris,
Yea bolts where pretty easy on coming out. I bought the boat in 05, it must have been done then before I got the boat. The hard part was taking the exhaust hoses off.. They made me feel like that.. lol Saturday I will have the new gasket and put back toghter. So you are saying, when I put back toghter, do not tighten all bolts down, and check the threads. Should I spray w-d-40 for preventive rust again. Or something else my friend...
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote 79nautique Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: February-19-2010 at 5:06pm
You did get new bolts correct? you don't want to use the old ones unless they are in really good shape and look close to new condition.

You don't want to use WD-40 or any thing on the threads some will say apply anti-seze to the threads first, I personally feel it's not needed if you are using stainless steel bolts, last time I bought the kit from chamberlain's that had new bolts and gasket for the manifold and risers.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote skicat2001 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: February-19-2010 at 5:16pm
Chris,
Yea they came with a kit I bought from Houston Water Sports. The bolts that came with the kit where not stainless steel though.. If I need too, I can find those pretty easily..
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote M3Fan Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: February-19-2010 at 5:31pm
Remember to cross-tighten the bolts- I think the torque is 22 or 24 ft-lb.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote 8122pbrainard Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: February-19-2010 at 5:43pm
Lee,
There's nothing really wrong with a decent grade of carbon steel bolt as long as you get some never-seize on the threads and they are a grade 5 or better. Actually, I would prefer a grade 5 (or 8) carbon over the stainless just because of their stength. A grade 5 has a tensile of 120,000 psi whereas a 18-8 or 316 grade of stainless is only 70,000 psi. I've broken too many stainless bolts to know that you only want to use them in bad corrosive environments.

Check the heads of the bolts that came with your kit. A grade 5 will have 3 radial slashes/ribs on it. A grade 8 will have 6. If they have no marks on the head, they are a grade 2 and you'll want to through those out!

BTW, give the WD40 to your wife to use around the house on things like a squeeky hinge. It's not the greatest stuff around and more "hype" than anything. Most of it evaporates leaving you with nothing! (that hinge will squeek again Too!!)


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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote skicat2001 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: February-19-2010 at 5:58pm
Hey Pete,
I will see if those are a 5 or better.. If not I will pick some up..
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote kapla Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: February-22-2010 at 8:24pm
Originally posted by 8122pbrainard 8122pbrainard wrote:


Check the heads of the bolts that came with your kit. A grade 5 will have 3 radial slashes/ribs on it. A grade 8 will have 6. If they have no marks on the head, they are a grade 2 and you'll want to through those out!



hey pete by any chance you got a picture of the menctioned marks the bolts should have to identify them?
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote 8122pbrainard Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: February-22-2010 at 8:41pm
Seb,
Here's a grade 5 with the 3 radial marks.


And grade 8 with the 6 marks


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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote skicat2001 Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: February-22-2010 at 9:44pm
Saturday morning went poking around through my nuts and bolt collection, and if hot damb if I didnt find a grade 5 bolt to finish my manifolds and gaskets job. I was pleased, and finished the job late saturday night. My boat is ready to go, all winter projects are done.. Thanks guys.. After seeing those pics at the St John Run over the weekend, I am ready put mine in the water.. O yea, almost done with winter projects, got to finish sanding my platform and teak oil it. Do that this weekend.
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote kapla Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: February-22-2010 at 11:22pm
Originally posted by 8122pbrainard 8122pbrainard wrote:

Seb,
Here's a grade 5 with the 3 radial marks.


And grade 8 with the 6 marks


thanks pete

now are those marks standarized or universal, or every bolt maker put its own marking?
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Post Options Post Options   Thanks (0) Thanks(0)   Quote 8122pbrainard Quote  Post ReplyReply Direct Link To This Post Posted: February-23-2010 at 9:02am
Originally posted by kapla kapla wrote:

thanks pete

now are those marks standarized or universal, or every bolt maker put its own marking?


They are standard SAE markings for the inch system. Every graded hex head cap screw will have them. However, if no markings, then they will be a grade 2 (or lower) - fine for general use when strength isn't important.

Metrics have different markings.


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