73 Skier Restoration

chances are they are wet too!!!

one of th main reason it's they were made with poliester resin???? and it takes water in the long time....

Loud pipes baby yeah! My favorite runs are at dusk in the middle of the week when everybody has gone home for the day and the butter water is flat as a mirror. Golden rays from the orange and pink sunset ripping off the ripples. This is my baby's ripple at slow ride sunset.

The thing about de-greasing first is: not only do you have a clean work area, you're not slinging grease/dirt particals throughout the entire boat.   

Far superior adhesion properties?     One can buy into whichever sales hype he chooses.   The one thing about scientific data, it always finds in favor of the product being sold.
I would not use polyesther on an epoxy base.

Only time will tell.

Sorry,   I refuse to use the quote box. So ya just have to remember what was said on the previous page. I'm afraid that if I were to use the quote feature, it would be too tempting to turn it into an art form like one other member. And I think it just turns a thread into a cluster f...

Anyway, I would not use epoxy in a polyesther hull.
I would not use polyesther in an epoxy base hull.
And I would never use cloth or tape with either.

Prove it to yourself and do some test patches, with all the combinations.
Let it set outside for a month, then get a hammer and sharp chisel and see which is easier to remove.
I think you will find, poly on poly with mat is the far superior.

I think there is some good info on the web.

http://www.boatus.com/boattech/TipResins.htm

The last boat I did was poly to poly. For the 71SN I am going expoxy to poly.


Frank

This is an excellant thread and I have been following along as I have 66 mustang in need of the same. I was wondering if anyone has put a new style engine cradle in an older boat to help with alignment as I don't quite understand that and thought that would give me more adjustments to fine tune. I saw where Keegan made a small jig to help relocate the stringers and motor mounts is that good enough or does it need to be perfect. Questions from a new CC owner.

Tom

8122pbrainard wrote: However, it seems that the engine cradle roughly coincides with the use of the weaker PCM trans. I wonder if the thinking was to keep alignment better? The PCM can't handle misalignment like the Velvet drive can.

Come on, Pete- the introductions of the cradle (1980) and PCM trans (1989) were almost a decade apart!

I dont feel that alignment had anything to do with the introduction of the cradle. We're adding a cradle to our '79 BFN, but its for different reasons (strength of engine attachment/load distribution and pylon reinforcement).

8122pbrainard wrote: Come on Tim - it took them 9 years to figure out the PCM isn't as robust as the Velvet!! How many years did it take CC to figure out wood rots when covered with crappy fiberglass??

Pete, the cradles were added 9 years before they started using the PCM's... I dont see the correlation!

homebuiltburner wrote: This is an excellant thread and I have been following along as I have 66 mustang in need of the same. I was wondering if anyone has put a new style engine cradle in an older boat to help with alignment as I don't quite understand that and thought that would give me more adjustments to fine tune. I saw where Keegan made a small jig to help relocate the stringers and motor mounts is that good enough or does it need to be perfect. Questions from a new CC owner. Tom

Thanks Tom and welcome to CCF. I figured the only way I was going to get this sucker back together was to take a million pictures and ask lots of questions. I have no time, money, or experience and was very reluctant to take on this project, but with the help from the members here I am getting it done.

As for your boat I suggest starting your own thread just like I did. Show us what you have got and these guys will not hesitate to tell you what is best. There will be discussion as above over details like your engine cradle question, but that will help you make the best decisions for your needs. You will be just fine without a cradle. I want to see that mustang show us some pictures.

Thanks for explaining the degreasing. I will be cleaning all of the surfaces thoroughly before any glass goes back in. It seems common sense that all surfaces be completely cleaned before any kind of painting or glass work. I would not have thought about the grinding pushing grease deeper into the surface.

My computer monitor died on my main machine last night so it may be a few days before I get any new pictures up. But here is my progress report. I finished grinding on the starboard side. Got the exhaust port wood out on that side, removed the prop from the shaft and pulled the shaft and the cutlass housing, and dug the rudder port wood out.

It felt really good to drive that sucker down to the car wash and clean it out. I vacuumed up all I could and then blasted it out with soapy water. No more glass dust or foam chunks thank god. Side projects have included polishing the rudder, prop and tracking fin. Will also be getting back to the teak platform soon. My D fir delivery was delayed to the end of the week so I have a little downtime.     

Here is the damage done

Here is a look after the car wash. All that nasty dust is out of there. Now that is is all clean I can see little bits of wood here and there stuck in the channel. I can also see some glass that needs to be ground down more but I want to leave a few traces of the channels to make putting the new stringers back in easier. I also removed as much of the bilge paint and gel as I could. I am happy with the progress and am really looking forward to getting my wood.

Oops.

I have yet to decide what to do on the floor. I am not doing it for at least 2-3 months anyway. I just did a few layers of epoxy on the mustang, no glass. If anything at all, I think I will just do a layer of 6oz cloth. Maybe. Definitely not biaxial.
I am NOT buying more epoxy.